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You're correct. Please diaregard what I wrote!
2 saw plan for hardwood property
- Thread starter dirtysock
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With smaller bar/chain, lighter power head, I really find the 261 much lighter and easier to work with. I likely use it 75% of the time. I find the power more than sufficient. On bigger trees and bucking bigger logs, the 362 is great, but my go to saw is the 261.
Iffykid
ArboristSite Operative
Mostly cedar elm, live oak, pecan and mesquite. Burned up a ms 250 (my mistake) that I had for 17 years. I plan to fall 6-12" trees, occasionally up to 24".
Sounds to me like 24" is the larger stuff.
dirtysock
ArboristSite Lurker
Well thanks to all of the advice. Dealer had 18" bar, .325 and .063 set up. Weird experience. I felt like I knew the saw better than the guy selling it. I bought the motomix to extend the warranty. Asked him to start it before I left and he couldn't. Said he flooded it and I would have to pull the plug and let it sit all night? I told him I would take it home and play with it. It was leaking gas everywhere when I tried to start it. Took it back today and they recognized me and immediately took the saw back to the mechanic. I had read somewhere something about carburetor needle not seating and it was a quick fix.
I cut some oak and it works great. 3 tanks of fuel running at less than WOT I think? Anyway, maybe this setup will work for most of my needs, but if I struggle bucking big stuff, I might look at a 462. Thanks again everybody.
I cut some oak and it works great. 3 tanks of fuel running at less than WOT I think? Anyway, maybe this setup will work for most of my needs, but if I struggle bucking big stuff, I might look at a 462. Thanks again everybody.
Iffykid
ArboristSite Operative
If you were happy running a 250 for 17yrs you should be ecstatic running the 261. Nice upgrade.
If the dealer needed to pull the plug and leave it sit overnight to clear a flooded saw I would not hold much confidence in the dealer, at most pull the plug pull the saw over a half dozen times and put the plug back in.
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I have a lot of experience with chainsaws, and I too flooded my 261c. In my case it was going from a Std Carb saw to the M-Tronic. Bound to happen, but now you know and should be safe from this mistake, with this saw for the life of the saw.
Congrates on the purchase.
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Great looking saw. Congrats!
Gamma Woods
ArboristSite Operative
I'm not a huge fan of the "I can't get this to run to prove that it runs, but you should buy it anyways and it will work for you tomorrow" tactic (from a friggin DEALER no less!), but I'm glad it got straightened out and OP got a quality machine, even if that particular support agent/location doesn't meet that same level of quality.
dirtysock
ArboristSite Lurker
Thanks. I agree. I guess the mechanic was busy yesterday when the sales guy "flooded" it. When I brought it home after they couldn't start it, I pulled the plug and then pulled the saw a few times and put the plug back in. Then on idle position I held the throttle in and pulled about 40 times with no luck, (I've cleared a flooded saw like this before) gas was everywhere. I called the same guy and told him something was definitely wrong and that in no way would I have a saw that required you to leave it alone overnight to get it to start after flooding and he said "well you probably shouldn't have bought a Stihl then". I knew then he didn't know what he was doing. They really shouldn't have guys like that selling when they don't know more than the average customer.
dirtysock
ArboristSite Lurker
Agree. I was not happy yesterday. Owner or manager needs to come out and correct the situation when that happens.
Iffykid
ArboristSite Operative
I am height challenged at 5-7" maybe why I preferer shorter length bars as I am already closer to the ground with out having to bend over as far.
I actually prefer a 20" bar but utilize a 16" on the 50cc saws, 18" might just prove a good compromise for you.
I have been running basically what amounts to a 2saw plan since the mid 90s.
026,260 and 261 all with 16" B&C, even though I like a 20"bar better I find the 16" fits the 50cc better for weight balance and power. YMMV
2-10mm 044s and 2-12mm 044s all with 20" B&C, I have found what works best for me so I stick with what works best for me. YMMV
I have thought about something like a 395 with a 28" bar just for ***** and giggles even thou I really have no use for one.
I actually prefer a 20" bar but utilize a 16" on the 50cc saws, 18" might just prove a good compromise for you.
I have been running basically what amounts to a 2saw plan since the mid 90s.
026,260 and 261 all with 16" B&C, even though I like a 20"bar better I find the 16" fits the 50cc better for weight balance and power. YMMV
2-10mm 044s and 2-12mm 044s all with 20" B&C, I have found what works best for me so I stick with what works best for me. YMMV
I have thought about something like a 395 with a 28" bar just for ***** and giggles even thou I really have no use for one.
Iffykid
ArboristSite Operative
Did I mention the purchase of $300 chinese 044 the G444 and would you be surprised to hear it is rocking a 20" B&C?
I never expected the quality of a Stihl but not the price of one either so there is that, Thus far it has cut right with my other 044s Stihl's how long is anyones guess?So at present I sit with 3-50cc Stihls
4-70cc Stihl's plus one chinese knock off
and one Echo 355T top handle
And still looking for a deal on a 395XP if for no other reason than I would think it would be cool to have one, How many saws does one need exactly? that would be one more than the present count.
Don't know if mtronic is different, but )flooded conventional motors usually start holding the throttle wide open and clean themselves out if there isn't an on going flooding issue. Might take numerous pulls . Usually 1 to 10 but I would probably give 30 pulls before giving up myself cause it's not uncommon to take more then 10 to get enough fuel moved through to get it to start.
Iffykid
ArboristSite Operative
Do you have a preference in bar length? I prefer a 20" B&C combo on a 70cc saw but run a 16" on my 50cc saws because I like the way saw performs better with the shorter combo weight, balance, power YMMV. with longer B&C not so much, not right or wrong just personal preference.
From your description unless your preference run towards longer bar and chain than 16" the 50cc might work better 99% of the time, others run 18-20" and are perfectly happy my happy place is a 16" on a 50cc. The main thing is where is YOUR happy place.
With the M-tronic, let the saw idle for 5-10 seconds after making a cut before you shut it off. If you shut it off immediately it may be too rich when you start it up and won't start. It's a good practice anyhow as it lets the fan cool the engine some.
When I forget, I clear the saw by starting it with the throttle held open.
Operating at less than full throttle can make the engine run lean. I think for break in it's better to use full throttle and just don't 'dog' the saw hard into the wood, loading it up.
When I forget, I clear the saw by starting it with the throttle held open.
Operating at less than full throttle can make the engine run lean. I think for break in it's better to use full throttle and just don't 'dog' the saw hard into the wood, loading it up.
dirtysock
ArboristSite Lurker
Most of the time I let it idle a little before shutting down, but I do forget sometimes. Just read in the manual that it means no WOT off load so that makes sense (first 3 tanks, but I try not to do that for any length of time anyway. Maybe just before I cut.) Thanks for the tip.
For my old saw that was the most frustrating thing trying to start it again after taking a break and it was in between cold and warm.
The leaking fuel suggests there are/were other problems beyond simply flooding by the sales guy... I've occasionally had starting problems with some of my Stihl equipment if I filled the fuel tank up so much that fuel spilled out while I installed the cap... including my 261. I read somewhere that overfilling interferes with the tank venting so the carb has trouble picking up fuel. I'm cognizant of that issue now and if I overfill I dump a bit of fuel out to leave an air space.... no more starting problems.
Iffykid
ArboristSite Operative
How do you manage to get the excess fuel back into the gas can without spilling.
Hmmm... never occurred to me to try.
dirtysock
ArboristSite Lurker
No more leaks after the carburetor needle seat so I think that was it. I just read in the manual about not overfilling. Did not know that. I used to accidentally overfill, put cap on, and continue, but I'm glad I know this now. Thanks.
