Thinking about MS 400. Is my 462 a keeper?

[sean donato]

Never.... never did one in my auto tunes saws and haven't done one on the 400 in the 2 years I've had it.

 

[bwalker]

So you's guys with a 462c (or other) M-tronic how often do you do a reset?
Not sure where the m-tronic version is here?
View attachment 1146467
saw was bought new 11-2023

I don't.
I've reset my 400c once as a troubleshooting measure. Turns out the coil died.

 

[ace4059]

So you's guys with a 462c (or other) M-tronic how often do you do a reset?
Not sure where the m-tronic version is here?
View attachment 1146467
saw was bought new 11-2023

You have the M3.0 which as of right now, it’s the newest version.
It’s says it at the bottom left at the end of the numbers.

You reset it when you have an extreme altitude change, temperature change, etc…. Example is if you are cutting at 1,000 ft then you go into the mountains and you start cutting at 8,000 ft elevation. Or starts out at 30 degrees in the morning and you cut for an hr then kill it and at noon it’s 75 degrees and you start cutting again and you notice it’s not quite running at its peak, then you might want to do a reset.
But the great thing is these saws are constantly adjusting and tuning to the environment so you shouldn’t really have to do many resets.

 

[ace4059]

Soo..... is there actually 2 methods for the reset.....?

I really hate to say this, but after watching this guy trying to do multiple mtronic resets, I have come to the conclusion that this guy is an idiot.
It is very simple. The manual spells it out how to easily do a reset. It’s not hard. If you can’t count, then use a stop watch.
Read the manual. Follow the instructions.

But is that the only issue with his saw? I’m not sure. That’s a ported saw and maybe the person porting it caused an issue where it will not run correctly.

 

[pioneerguy600]

The saw in the vid has had the ignition advanced.

 

[farmer steve]

So you's guys with a 462c (or other) M-tronic how often do you do a reset?
Not sure where the m-tronic version is here?
View attachment 1146467
saw was bought new 11-2023

4 different ones and never have. 241,261,400,462.

 

[lone wolf]

4 different ones and never have. 241,261,400,462.

You are missing a 500 in that line up .

 

[bwalker]

You have the M3.0 which as of right now, it’s the newest version.
It’s says it at the bottom left at the end of the numbers.

You reset it when you have an extreme altitude change, temperature change, etc…. Example is if you are cutting at 1,000 ft then you go into the mountains and you start cutting at 8,000 ft elevation. Or starts out at 30 degrees in the morning and you cut for an hr then kill it and at noon it’s 75 degrees and you start cutting again and you notice it’s not quite running at its peak, then you might want to do a reset.
But the great thing is these saws are constantly adjusting and tuning to the environment so you shouldn’t really have to do many resets.

I can say for certain you don't have to reset for large swings in altitude or temp. I may operate a saw one day at 2-3000' and 90 degrees and the next be at 8-9000' and 50 degrees.

 

[farmer steve]

I can say for certain you don't have to reset for large swings in altitude or temp. I may operate a saw one day at 2-3000' and 90 degrees and the next be at 8-9000' and 50 degrees.

I knew someone had posted something to that effect in a thread somewhere on AS. Musta been you.

 

[farmer steve]

You are missing a 500 in that line up .

Actually wasn't impressed with the one I ran vs my 462

 

[PV Hiker]

I can say for certain you don't have to reset for large swings in altitude or temp. I may operate a saw one day at 2-3000' and 90 degrees and the next be at 8-9000' and 50 degrees.

Yes, me too. When I first start up a saw I'll let it idle and at times when in a new elevation or temperature environment I can hear the chip adjusting RPM while warming up. Then good to go.

I think the real need to recalibrate is when you have confused the heck out of it and faults out. Like when you shut it off hot and vapor locks and try to start and runs like crap. Or not letting it warm up and start cutting right away and you flood it out.

 

[bwalker]

Yes, me too. When I first start up a saw I'll let it idle and at times when in a new elevation or temperature environment I can hear the chip adjusting RPM while warming up. Then good to go.

I think the real need to recalibrate is when you have confused the heck out of it and faults out. Like when you shut it off hot and vapor locks and try to start and runs like crap. Or not letting it warm up and start cutting right away and you flood it out.

I've never did any special warm up routine and the only time I've had an issue is when the coil died.

 

[Michael Bradshaw]

Hello everyone, longtime reader, first time poster.

I’m not a tree professional, just a landowner who enjoys running saws to help myself and others. I appreciate high quality tools and am at a point in life where I can afford them even if they don’t always pay for themselves.

I grew up on heavily wooded acreage, running saws from a young age, but as an adult went many years without owning one. The first chainsaw I purchased with my own money was a Stihl MS 362 CM, purchased new in 2016 after doing a lot of research on this site. It was my “one chainsaw plan” and fulfilled that role admirably until 2020, when I added a 261 CM and 462 CM to the stable.

I do a mix of felling, bucking, limbing, and storm cleanup, mostly hardwoods. I rarely need more than a 24” bar. I don’t climb (but sometimes wish I did).

I love my 462, but don’t use it quite as much as I thought I would. The 261 punches above its weight, so it gets used more than I thought it would. And because I had a family neighbor in need of a good saw, I gave them my 362.

Now I find myself with a “two saw plan” comprising a 261 (18” .325) and 462 (24” & 28” 3/8 lightweights). However, I miss having an intermediate saw, and the MS 400 has caught my eye. If I bought one, I’d plan to run it with a 20” lightweight bar. Then, I’d probably acquire a full wrap handle for my 462 to further differentiate it from the 400. I don’t need the 400, but something about three saws feels better than two.

However, I’ve recently become aware that Stihl quietly redesigned the cylinder and piston on the 462 due to issues with pre-2020 units (my build date is October 2019). I bought my 462 thinking I’d keep it forever, but now I’m wondering what kind of long-term reliability I can reasonably expect. My specimen still has relatively low hours, and I run good oil (VP 40:1). It’s hard to assess the likelihood of running into problems.

So in my shoes, to return to a “thee saw plan” of a 261, 400, and 462, would you keep the Gen1 462 and invest in a full wrap handle, or would you sell the Gen1 and buy a Gen2 462 R CM? Or would you do something else entirely?

Thanks for reading.

Good evening, I too am just a firewood guy and branched out into growing trees. I cut for my friends and family. I manage a 40-acre home with most of that being Hardwoods and a few poplars.
I have several saws, Like you I have a MS 462, (corroborated model) a MS250, and my oldest saw is a Husqvarna 268. Finaly, the last saw I own is an MS 192t. It's a top handle model saw and I find myself using it quite a bit, it's handy for limbing and I've even fell a few small trees with it. You can cut with your right hand and then throw brush and small limbs right out of your way. They do not make the MS 192 anymore but from what I hear the MS 201 is a screamer. It too is a top handle saw. I have a 14-inch bar on mine, and it zips thru the little stuff and if you give the saw time it can handle bigger limbs and logs. These top handle saws are 10 pounds or so, the weight of my bigger saws starts to add up on me after a while, so I save them for the bigger stuff. This system work for me but these little saws are useful.
I have not had my MS 462 long enough to discover any issues, but boy I'm really impressed with it so far, the acceleration on the chain is wickedly fast and plenty of power to cut the biggest of oak's.