I don't understand the throttle blipping myself, i don't do it but i'm just a firewood hack.
Thinking about MS 400. Is my 462 a keeper?
- Thread starter Dave Null
- Start date
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I have thought it as a nervous twitch type of activity, could be proven wrong by a physiologist but when I see a fellow blipping away while just standing still looking around nervously at the surroundings and even some that are making their way between dropping another tree it aggravates me sorely and have to act upon it, after several warnings then either I leave or they do.
I'd say there's nothing wrong with keeping the 462, but the 400 is noticeably lighter. Just depends on how you normally use the saw. IMHO, the 400 will replace the 360 family as the top firewood saw. Almost the same weight as the older 036, but noticeably more power. If money isn't really a concern, maybe pick up the 400, sell the 462, and get a 500 or a used 660/661.
I've had older saws that would load up at idle and eventually shut off unless you cleared them out with a throttle blip. I've been asked why we throttle blip our dirt bikes and it's generally the same reason. If you don't, they shut off...so it could just be a habit. But then, there are plenty of street bike and harley riders that feel the need to blip on fuel injected bikes...so...
No issue with that on my modern M-tronic or fuel injected saws...however, it's kind of odd that you're so sensitive you have to leave if someone throttle blips and won't stop because you tell them not to? Maybe you should get checked out by a professional.
Maybe you should get you machines to operate correctly and avoid throttle blipping, my own saws do not require throttle blipping to keep them runnig and neither do the rest of the crew, they just do it for no real mechanical reason and I can and do run my crews the way I want no need for others to intervene. My way or the highway, their choice..
LOL OK tough guy
wahconah98
ArboristSite Lurker
It must be winter or something. You guys need to get out and cut some wood!
I actually run chainsaws more in the winter than the rest of the year as the ground is usually firmer and I don`t enjoy sweating and beating off flies. Currently we have bare frozen ground here, makes less mud for hauling through.
I fell/bucked a massive yard maple yesterday. I had to give the saw a few piss revs after each cut to get some oil back on the chain and clear some of the chips from the drivers.
Dave Null
New Member
Just want to say I appreciate all the comments and advice. I’ve read every post, and though I haven’t made a decision yet, you’ve given me some things to think about. This is a great site. Saw safe, everyone.
That's funny, I have a Toyota 4L in my Tacoma that has over 200k of hard miles on it with 10k changes with Mobil1EP. No sludge, no oil burning and no issues.
Hyundai are just low quality and it's only luck you haven't had problems yet.
Blipping is one thing. Holding it wide open for an extended period of tome is another. That has never been recommended.
Yeah, I know. Borrowed time on the Hyundai. After discussion with a trusted Hyundai tech, I am on the right track.
10,000 mile oil changes? Just don't believe in them. Too many years as a GM tech and in the school bus business. Oil is still cheaper.
10,000 mile oil changes? Just don't believe in them. Too many years as a GM tech and in the school bus business. Oil is still cheaper.
StihlPotlicker
ArboristSite Operative
I have a '10 Yukon with over 223000 miles on her, unfortunately being on the border of New York, the darn winter roads are destroying the jitney before the engine will die.
What length bar are you running? On long bars I see the chain hanging looser than on bars 20 " and shorter and I know chips can get to be a problem on loose chains. The most often used bar here is 20" and under so the under oiling or chip clogging is not a common problem. Anything tree over 36" on the stump is quite rare here these days even in old growth stand.
I probably wouldn't do a 10,000 mile interval on a taxi-cab or a rural mail carrier, but if all I did was run the highway I would.
I cut it with a 36" from each side and there was still some holding wood but we could break it with the machine, I was burning a tank of gas about every 3 cuts.
I have the data from UOA to prove they are working just fine
When I run a 36 on my 066 it oils it well enough and I have not had chips build up under the chain, but I only cut green wood, dried out oak is a different animal.
As much as I like my 400, and like the 462, I too see no real need for both. Well, unless it's a case of cad and you get a good deal on one or the other. Keep the 462. I wouldn't be too worried about first gen vs second. They have a pretty good track record.
