You need to be a big guy to run one or at least it helps.
They are a great saw for long bar especially with the front tensioner it’s a stronger design. The outboard clutch is also nice for pulling super long chains. For the size and weight it’s a hard combination to beat how many other saws can and will pull a 60” bar in that weight class?
A 60” bar up to and a 42” in the second picture.
Here’s the same saw with a 36
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I did buy, They are expected the first week of June.Have one built up for you; it'll be a hell of a lotta fun. If you don't want to pull the trigger on a 395, buy a used 394 off eBay and cut some with it. They'll make a believer of you.
I bought but could only afford 1.One of the best chainsaws ever. I purchased one and almost immediately bought another for my other hand. It’s a bit like a cinderblock with a handle but it is a smooth as southern sippin’ liquor. Get one before they are gone.
No it doesn’t right? What does matter is that two pounds plus a 36” bar, or even a 28...Does two pounds lighter even matter when compared to the hp we’re giving up? Between the 395xp vs 372xp? There’s no comparison.
I have a 2018 model, it’s hands down amazing.
We should be lucky that husky offers a non strato designed big bore saw that stays true to the saws of previous age. No emissions bs restrictions on the 395. It has amazing throttle response and tunes easier than my 372 x torque. I never had to muffler mod this saw, it never got too hot milling, ever. Has plenty of power.
This saw is not designed for bucking imo, it was designed for large tree felling or milling. You put a 36” bar on it, break the chain in for stretch and leave it alone for a long time. People are complaining about the tensioner, imo it’s rarely used.
I’ve had mine for almost a year now and it’s design suits its purpose, no need changing that!!
You want something lighter and smaller, go with a 372 and save two pounds. You want something lighter with the same power? Well you can’t have the best of both of those worlds now can you?
I'm just a Firewood hack, and CSM hobbyist, but the posts I have read in the past by those more "In The Know" than myself, have commented that the 395XP is is more at home Bucking, and light to moderate CSMing, and that the 390XP is better suited as a felling saw, "I don't Know, but I been told" , maybe some others will chime in with their thoughts, and what works Best for one, is not always the Best answer for another.
How about it Skeans, you still following along here?, I would be interested in your thoughts
Doug
Could you elaborate on this statement please Sir? I am not questening you on it,My personal feelings on a 395 is they shouldn’t be ran with anything shorter then 36.
Could you elaborate on this statement please Sir? I am not questening you on it,
I wish only to learn.
It’s a very torquey saw with this length it still kicks back but it’s less likely, in the video I posted that’s a 36 with a 8 pin sprocket it has no issue with wanting to pull you in like that. A 390 will pull up to a 42” bar without too many issues either but that’s it’s limits.
Can I ask what you’re planning to do with this saw?
It will mostly spend its time at home cutting firewood, Oak, Beech, Maple and other hardwood, as well as bundles of slabs. I have a 60 inch bar for the slab cutting. It will from time to time be used in the woods by some Amish friends of mine when needed for the occasional big cut and on-site milling.It’s a very torquey saw with this length it still kicks back but it’s less likely, in the video I posted that’s a 36 with a 8 pin sprocket it has no issue with wanting to pull you in like that. A 390 will pull up to a 42” bar without too many issues either but that’s it’s limits.
Can I ask what you’re planning to do with this saw?
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He’s basically saying your wasting hp/torque with anything less. If you want a bar that’s shorter putting a 395 on it versus say a 372 that’s two pounds lighter, both will do the same job so use the 372 for the shorter bar.Could you elaborate on this statement please Sir? I am not questening you on it,
I wish only to learn.
He’s basically saying your wasting hp/torque with anything less. If you want a bar that’s shorter putting a 395 on it versus say a 372 that’s two pounds lighter, both will do the same job so use the 372 for the shorter bar.
If this is the only saw you plan to buy for now there’s nothing wrong with using a shorter bar.
I have three saws for my milling work, the 550 does the felling and limbing of smaller trees. The 372 does larger tree felling up to 28” and or the first edging. The 395 never leaves the 36” bar, and always does slabbing.
If you can only own one saw there is absolutely nothing wrong with Owning a 395 with various size bars including 20” for firewood and a 36 for slabbing. Enjoy it it can do it all
Your welcome man!I have 3 other saws, well 2 now that's working. I had a 394xp that took one from a widow maker, thankfully it was sitting on the ground with no one around it. I have a 55 Rancher and a 372xpw with the stock 74cc jug&piston pushing the chain that I really like and grab 99% of the time. I ordered the saw already but with a 24-inch bar, I wish I had of waited now and got it with the 36-inch bar and may still be able to since they are not due in until the first week of June.
I Really Thank All You Folks Who Have Contributed To My Post.
I have 3 other saws, well 2 now that's working. I had a 394xp that took one from a widow maker, thankfully it was sitting on the ground with no one around it. I have a 55 Rancher and a 372xpw with the stock 74cc jug&piston pushing the chain that I really like and grab 99% of the time. I ordered the saw already but with a 24-inch bar, I wish I had of waited now and got it with the 36-inch bar and may still be able to since they are not due in until the first week of June.
I Really Thank All You Folks Who Have Contributed To My Post.