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Other options for bad soil are in ground or on ground hugelkultur mounds like these. Just dump a load of logs and then cover it with your soil/manure/compost/leaves/grass cuttings etc
Not trying to be argumentative, but, I have dug up old slab piles that I know where covered up in the 1940's and found slabs of wood intact and not nearly decomposed. While I do believe limbs and logs will eventually decay, I doubt I would live long enough to reap the benefit. On the other hand, wood chips, notably Ramail wood chips, contain 75% of a trees nutrients and will decompose much faster than logs or tree limbs. Ramail wood chips differ from the bagged wood chip products you buy from retail stores. ramail chips are the small limbs, twigs, mostly bark, of a tree. Hardwood bark being prefered instead of pine bark. Trees removed and then chipped with the bulk of the trunk material removed is much better than saw dust or nutrient poor large dia woods. I used to have the local power company dump all their wood chips on my property. I would get a 100 or so truck loads at a time. Thats a lot of chips. I would pile the chips as high as I could and then take my FEL and turn the piles every couple of months. This kept the piles hot and decomposing. I used these chips in my garden and for erosion control on steep slopes. I even managed to sell a lot for mulch. Properly composed wood chips; would turn those 100 truck loads into about 10 truck loads of composted material.
As for adding the chips to my garden, I never incorporated the chips into the soil during growing season. This reduces the nutrient tieup and robbing nutrients from the growing plants, I used the chips as a mulch, which you already know the benefits of, and after harvest I would then till the mulch material into the soil. This way the mulch was in direct contact with the soil and the sun during growing season yet not in a situation to where its decay could tie up nutrients needed for a productive garden, This method also speeds up the soil building process of applying qood materials to the soil. One other thing to consider when burying logs or wood chips, anything deeper than about 6-7 inches will create anaerobic conditions, starving the good microbes and slowing down the decomposition of the wood products.
 
Not trying to be argumentative, but, I have dug up old slab piles that I know where covered up in the 1940's and found slabs of wood intact and not nearly decomposed. While I do believe limbs and logs will eventually decay, I doubt I would live long enough to reap the benefit. On the other hand, wood chips, notably Ramail wood chips, contain 75% of a trees nutrients and will decompose much faster than logs or tree limbs. Ramail wood chips differ from the bagged wood chip products you buy from retail stores. ramail chips are the small limbs, twigs, mostly bark, of a tree. Hardwood bark being prefered instead of pine bark. Trees removed and then chipped with the bulk of the trunk material removed is much better than saw dust or nutrient poor large dia woods. I used to have the local power company dump all their wood chips on my property. I would get a 100 or so truck loads at a time. Thats a lot of chips. I would pile the chips as high as I could and then take my FEL and turn the piles every couple of months. This kept the piles hot and decomposing. I used these chips in my garden and for erosion control on steep slopes. I even managed to sell a lot for mulch. Properly composed wood chips; would turn those 100 truck loads into about 10 truck loads of composted material.
As for adding the chips to my garden, I never incorporated the chips into the soil during growing season. This reduces the nutrient tieup and robbing nutrients from the growing plants, I used the chips as a mulch, which you already know the benefits of, and after harvest I would then till the mulch material into the soil. This way the mulch was in direct contact with the soil and the sun during growing season yet not in a situation to where its decay could tie up nutrients needed for a productive garden, This method also speeds up the soil building process of applying qood materials to the soil. One other thing to consider when burying logs or wood chips, anything deeper than about 6-7 inches will create anaerobic conditions, starving the good microbes and slowing down the decomposition of the wood products.
I don’t find it argumentative it’s good to share opinions.
The idea behind burying logs is not just so they can decompose, they act like water batteries and harbour beneficial fungi that feed plants water and nutrients through the mycelium and improve soil structure. You don’t want composting materials in your grow beds as it will rob nutrients from the soil as you pointed out.
I also prefer wood chips from trees for mulch rather than commercial stuff, this year we are having some delivered from a local arborist. The chips on the rose bed I showed were chopped up clippings from the garden.
 
I had never heard of the term hugelkultur until you posted it. I had read about similar processes. I did look hugelkultur up this morning and read about it, not a deep dive, but enough to get a overlook at it. From what I read, it seems I am correct in some of my assumptions as to nutrient tieup, anaerobic conditions and moisture holding capabilities. I dont think I will be trying it, I am space limited and the bucket/pot method is a lot less work, an yields faster results.
 
Container gardens can produce a LOT of veggies! IF space is limited they are an even better way to have fresh produce. Also you could move them anytime you needed til you find the best place for them.
We grew tons of different stuff in our 10 Earthboxes we used at the other place!
 
I am space limited and the bucket/pot method is a lot less work
That's fair enough if you are growing plants in pots then hugelkultur probably isn't for you. But if like me you need something that is going to retain moisture, slowly release nutrients and harbour beneficial fungi for raised beds and plots of land then hugelkultur is a great option. As I showed in the first post I made about it the results speak for themselves
 
We grew tons of different stuff in our 10 Earthboxes we used at the other place!
I did the earthbox thing one year. I think my pots are a extention of the bottom watering concept. Except, I dont go thru all the trouble the guy in this vide does.
https://www.bing.com/videos/rivervi...id=A0A954722A81490EBB6DF3917F2C9CF9&FORM=VIRE
I dont drill holes in the bottom of my pots, I do drill holes about 3 inches from the bottom in the sides of the pot. Ths does two things, number 1 it provides a water reservoir that lets the plants wick water up thru the soil. 2, the holes in the sides of the pots allow excess water to drain out of the pots, so you dont end up with water logged plants. I also believe it helps prevent insect infestation as most of your beetle bugs live in the ground and only crawl up the plants to feed. Filling the bottom of the pots with wood chips stores plenty of water and I seldom have to water during the summer. I grow mostly taters in my pots and when its time to harvest i just dump the pots in my fel bucket, rake out the taters and refill the pots with the dirt. Pretty easy gardening. Planting taters in pots is easy to, just drop the taters on top of the soil in the bucket and cover with more dirt. When the tater plants start growing, you can forget about weeding. The taters will choke out any weeds, Same result if you plant cabbage or broccli or squash or cukes, or anything that likes to spread it leaves.
 
Actually I was wrong
https://homesteadingdownsized.com/2...-inexpensive-hugelkultur-container-gardening/

Seems you are already using the hugelkultur method

Almost all of my compost is from wood chips generated from power lime trimmings. Tree trimmings consisting of chipped branches, twigs and leaves are the most nutrient dense parts of the tree.

I dig 16 inches deep with a broad fork so I don't want to be hitting or getting snagged on large wood.

I do agree that Hugelhultur is a great method of carbon sinking and improving growing condition in garden soil.
 
I only found out about it last year. Made sense to me as it is basically replicating nature so I gave it a go and was very impressed with the results. I will be working on some more similar projects this year and will post some updates

You've likely read a bit on permaculture. It's interesting stuff. Hugel fits right in.
 
Yes exactly, project started off as permaculture beds and morphed into hugl while I was researching :)
I am a big fan of organic gardening and self sustainability

When I was 20 years old, almost 50 years ago now, a friends mother gave me 20 years of back issues or Organic Gardening Magazine. At that time I'd been using her tiller to till her garden for her as she couldn't run it and neither could her daughter.

That got me hooked. RIP Virginia LeVan.
 
Actually I was wrong
https://homesteadingdownsized.com/2...-inexpensive-hugelkultur-container-gardening/

Seems you are already using the hugelkultur method
Very similar I will agree. The big difference is The wood used. '' Hugelkultur container gardening is easy, simply fill 1/3 of your container with pieces of dry or rotten wood (2 inches in diameter or less).''. I don use dry or rotton wood, but the whole 2in dia wood is right in line with using Ramial wood chips. I havent studied the differences between dead wood and green wood, but my thoughts are that the dead, rotten wood has already loss most of it gasous and otherwise easily accessible plant nutrients (nitrogen), while the newly chipped green wood will still contain those nutrients. If I am correct, and I have been wrong before, then nutrient tieup would be more likely with the dry wood. Now for a seperate issue, the larger the wood chips or round wood will take longer to decay than the smaller green wood chips. For a in groundbed, the buried wood might be a real long term solution, but in containers like I use, logs and sticks makes dumping and refilling pots a chore. The small chips seem to just melt into the dirt and mostly disappear between growing season. One of the differences is the pots being used. Those clay pots usually have a drain hole in the bottom. Of course that hole is intended for drainage. Drainage means that any water added to the pots will eventually run right out the bottom. My method of using pots is to not have any drainage in the very bottom of the pots, instead I drill holes about 3inches up the side of the pot to provide drainage. Those holes 3inches up the side of the pots means there is 3 inches of storage in the bottom of the pot. The soil goes all the way to the bottom of the pot and will wick moisture up thru the soil to keep the plants watered.
A little on wood chip gardens, https://www.bing.com/videos/rivervi...id=02360E7892DE4051BD02BC36D211A72B&FORM=VIRE
 
When do y’all start your tomato plants? I start the 2nd week in February & was curious about other areas.
My record isnt exactly stellar when it comes to starting plants. But I will put my two cents in anyways. I dont have the room to start plants in my house and I dont have a green house. I have tried starting plants in one of my sheds under artificial lights. Plants either dont grow or grow very spinly. Since I dont need but a small handfull of plants, i just go with what I grow. I dont plant anything is the garden until around May 15th. Eairlier than that a big chance of losing them due to frost. I like to start my seeds about 6 to 8 weeks before planting outside around April 1st, and I use the bigger 1 quartsize containers, which allows me to let the seedling grow bigger before transplanting. None of this is set in stone, I keep my eyes on the weather forecast and will take chances on frost warnings. I like Ryan Hall ya'll on youtube weather. Anyways, I usually buy a lot of my plants if I go thru the nursery section of the stores and see something I want to try. Cant resist the temptation, I am sure nobody here has that problem. Now if I needed more than 2 or 3 mater plants or pepper plants to provide for my needs, I might try growing more plants, but 2 people dont need 40 different kind of peppers or tomatoes and the like, and just 2 or three plants will produce all I need.
 
SKUNameOrganicPriceQuantityTotal
Sub-Total$63.80
USPS$8.50
Sales Tax$5.86
Total$78.16
69102Cajun Jewel Okra$3.651$3.65
69109Burmese Okra$3.651$3.65
35103EDanvers 126 Carrots$7.551$7.55
51103Poinsett 76 Cucumber$3.401$3.40
55113Blacktail Mountain Watermelon$3.401$3.40
55118Crimson Sweet, Virginia Select Watermelon$3.651$3.65
52102Edisto 47 Muskmelon$3.651$3.65
52106Kansas Muskmelon$3.651$3.65
49145Tropic VFN Tomato$3.901$3.90
35106EScarlet Nantes (Coreless, Nantes Half Long) Carrots$7.551$7.55
49129Mortgage Lifter VFN Tomato$3.901$3.90
35108EImperator (Tendersweet) Carrots$7.551$7.55
51113DMR 401 Slicing Cucumber$4.151$4.15
55134Chou Cheh Red Watermelon$4.151$4.15

Thank You,

Southern Exposure Seed Exchange
 

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