2101xp/ top all time muscle saws!!!!!!!!!!!

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So I’ve broken out the old 2100CD. When I pull the recoil the chain moves, my immediate thought was broken clutch spring but upon checking the spring is just about OK and the shoes are held off the clutch drum. My only other idea is a frozen clutch drum needle bearing…I’ll be tearing into the saw soon when the football breaks for half time.
Anything else I can look out for?
TIA
Karl
18F61F56-A880-4CBF-9784-2AE480AEE3FA.jpeg
 
So I’ve broken out the old 2100CD. When I pull the recoil the chain moves, my immediate thought was broken clutch spring but upon checking the spring is just about OK and the shoes are held off the clutch drum. My only other idea is a frozen clutch drum needle bearing…I’ll be tearing into the saw soon when the football breaks for half time.
Anything else I can look out for?
TIA
Karl
View attachment 916392
I'd say needle bearing should cover it. Everything looks fine visually, and the bearing is the only invisible bit. I'd just turn the drum by hand, you don't need to pull the clutch yet.
 
Yes my thoughts exactly. Turning the drum by hand moves the shoes even though they are not ‘touching’. Clutch off job to inspect I guess…but how to get the clutch off as gently as possible? I guess spray some lube on and give it time?
 
it could be that the drive dogs for the oil pump weren't lined up when the clutch was installed and it's binding the drum against the clutch
Ok good shout, hadn’t thought of that. The saw is in the kitchen so that I can get to it easily when the football allows. Euros competition over here at the moment…come on Ingerland!!!
 
Clutch off, drum off and the needle bearing was stuck on. And off with a little bit of work…time to try to find a new one now. How does the clutch / drum interface look to you guys…it’s kinda ridged…shouldn’t it be flat surface to flat surface? CheersB8961A68-30CC-4386-A794-177EDEFB0841.jpegA0CC94DC-507C-46E1-86A4-88F9879F15A9.jpegFAE2411A-6244-44DF-B360-36218D2FB2A2.jpeg
 
Unless you're going to make a living with the saw, I think that clutch will do for a while yet.. soak the bearing and regrease it, put it back together and you'll have your answer if it's good enough
Good call, do as you say and try to start the saw before I throw any money at it. The oil seal looks a bit mangled but maybe that’s the way they look on the 2100….even if not it might still be good. Thanks fellas
 
I think that's just a dust seal to keep sawdust out of the oil pump drive... I'd just run it, I don't put that many hours on mine before it comes apart for cleaning or some kind of tweaking
Thanks mate, that sounds right. I’m way more used to Stihls so looking forward to tinkering with this. Side by side with the 084 it looks small…but I guess 20cc ish less it’s to be expected
 
So I’ve broken out the old 2100CD. When I pull the recoil the chain moves, my immediate thought was broken clutch spring but upon checking the spring is just about OK and the shoes are held off the clutch drum. My only other idea is a frozen clutch drum needle bearing…I’ll be tearing into the saw soon when the football breaks for half time.
Anything else I can look out for?
TIA
Karl
View attachment 916392

See that hole- centre of crankshaft stub?
At half time in that funny old game you folk call Football, squirt liberal amounts of WD40 or the like down there and go watch the second half of the game while it sits and works.
 
See that hole- centre of crankshaft stub?
At half time in that funny old game you folk call Football, squirt liberal amounts of WD40 or the like down there and go watch the second half of the game while it sits and works.
It’s all off already, bearing soaked, cleaned, greased and clutch reassembled. Just taken the exhaust off and the piston and cylinder look great and it feels like good compression. Exhaust is fubar though, externally sound but the inside are rattling around. I might try to take the little grill off the front and empty out the insides. Lots of lube (overnight I guess) on those four little screws first though…and they probably still won’t come off!
Football is definitely a silly game played mostly by a load of ponces…rugby for the win…but regardless of sport you might as well get behind your nation927E0B6B-98A1-4A52-83B2-FF5C09D45DE0.jpeg
 
It’s all off already, bearing soaked, cleaned, greased and clutch reassembled. Just taken the exhaust off and the piston and cylinder look great and it feels like good compression. Exhaust is fubar though, externally sound but the inside are rattling around. I might try to take the little grill off the front and empty out the insides. Lots of lube (overnight I guess) on those four little screws first though…and they probably still won’t come off!
Football is definitely a silly game played mostly by a load of ponces…rugby for the win…but regardless of sport you might as well get behind your nationView attachment 916417
So I see, being upside down, you are spending the evening watching choreographed dance routines on the telly and I am not long out of bed to -4, tend the fire and getting breakfast! So sometimes I am late to the Northern Hemisphere party. :yes:
Still spray some lubricant down that hole and clear the gallery so in the future you can pump the odd bit of grease down there to lube that bearing.

Might be time to look for a new second hand muffler, or find someone good at braising. Looks like it may have run with loose main bolts and vibration has caused fractures of the crush tubes. Does it still have the locking plates for the main bolts?
Not only a Jungle muffler, but a modded one (with the broken louvre) :laugh:.
 
Yes I agree, have already had a quick look about for a better muffler…no joy but I’ll keep looking. This is all I have:
397B7484-2DA6-4B76-97BA-2AA66E0B95FE.jpeg58006D79-B76F-4114-BC1B-CC599FA9D02D.jpeg
- 4 deg c…sod that…I’d be staying in bed.
Thanks for the help and have a good day :)
 
Yes I agree, have already had a quick look about for a better muffler…no joy but I’ll keep looking. This is all I have:
View attachment 916420View attachment 916421
- 4 deg c…sod that…I’d be staying in bed.
Thanks for the help and have a good day :)
Will have a look through some old information, I think at least the old 285CD run the same muffler, maybe the 480CD as well?
Someone in Jolly Old England will have a parts saw of one of those more easily than a 2100 I am guessing?
They kind of need that strip of sheet metal across the two main bolts that provide the locking tabs- Husqvarna's have a habit of shaking fixing bolts loose!

image0 (17).jpeg
 
Will have a look through some old information, I think at least the old 285CD run the same muffler, maybe the 480CD as well?
Someone in Jolly Old England will have a parts saw of one of those more easily than a 2100 I am guessing?
They kind of need that strip of sheet metal across the two main bolts that provide the locking tabs- Husqvarna's have a habit of shaking fixing bolts loose!

View attachment 916425
Yes to 285, no to 480. The 2100/285 mufflers have 85/100 stamped on them to differentiate them from the smaller 380/480/L65/L77 mufflers. That being said, you can take the louvers off of an L65 muffler and put them on a 2100 muffler to make it a dual port.
 
Yes to 285, no to 480. The 2100/285 mufflers have 85/100 stamped on them to differentiate them from the smaller 380/480/L65/L77 mufflers. That being said, you can take the louvers off of an L65 muffler and put them on a 2100 muffler to make it a dual port.

Cheers, saves me looking! :yes:
 

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