Change the name to OCD thread!
261C break in period
- Thread starter Am leaf
- Start date
Help Support Arborist Forum:
I run mine like i stole it to break it in, i used red armor 50 to 1. now i don't rev a saw out of the cut anyway.
Hmmm...the SDS says "*Note: The exact composition of the above listed chemicals are being withheld as a trade secret"
Sounds like a secret to me.
As for what, exactly, those "above listed chemicals" are ...
No. What the SDS says, exactly, is: "Hydrocarbon blend" 95%
Golly, that narrows it down to like fewer than a trillion different possible hydrocarbons. Let's see..."Smells like petroleum...must be naphtha!"
I always rev it out of a big cut to clear the sawdust that can bind the chain. Ever notice that?
Now i do that, but not just rev one up all the time like some do
I highly recommend using Echo Red Armor oil. You might start with a 32:1 mix for the 1st few tanks but not go above 40:1.
I have tried it. I have inspected motors with a bore scope afterwards. Didn't do a single thing.
In the US, an SDS lists toxic chemicals only. In other countries they have different requirements.
For petroleum products most are toxic, so it gives you a pretty good idea of what your dealing with.
I can't tell you how many thousands of cans of seafoam I have used mostly due to people supplying it at their request. Does it work? depends on its usage. I used it for years dribbling it into intakes to remove carbon off valves and pistons in small engines, sucked in through vacuum hoses into car and truck engines to do the same thing before a spark plug change. Added to engine oil to help flush sludge and sediment before oil changes or attempting to free a lifter. Adding it to the fuel tank to clean injectors. Over time I found in every application there are far better chemicals for each procedures intended results.
Does it work at cleaning engine components, I'd say it is a 3 out of 10
For inductions I use BG or if I need to remove serious carbon I'll use marvels then follow up with bg and require plugs and oil changed. My method makes ford 3v plugs turn out by hand once broken loose, the carbon on the plug threads turns into runny mud
Injector cleaner I use BG 44k or 245, I have vehicle testimonials of neighbors mpg's increasing by as little as 1mpg and much as 10mpg (guy was also putting 93 in a 87 rated car). And I strongly suggest they buy their own and treat every tank until the effects are no longer noticed.
For flushing oil systems I add k1 kerosene or on road diesel, 3/4 quart in 4-5 quart systems and 1-1.25 quarts in 6-8 quart systems, 2 quarts in 12 quart systems. Idle for 30 minutes, raise rpm to 1500 in diesels or 2500 in gas for 5 minutes then immediately change the oil, suggest a second oil change at 1500 miles or less. 2oz in a lawn mower, run 15 minutes then change the oil. Do not drive, mow or load the engine up from doing work or other services like inductions while doing this!!
If you want something to attempt to free up rings or to add to fuel in carb engines to attempt to remove varnish clogged jets and screens I like B12 chemtool, I have seen it work small miracles in those situations.
Does it work at cleaning engine components, I'd say it is a 3 out of 10
For inductions I use BG or if I need to remove serious carbon I'll use marvels then follow up with bg and require plugs and oil changed. My method makes ford 3v plugs turn out by hand once broken loose, the carbon on the plug threads turns into runny mud
Injector cleaner I use BG 44k or 245, I have vehicle testimonials of neighbors mpg's increasing by as little as 1mpg and much as 10mpg (guy was also putting 93 in a 87 rated car). And I strongly suggest they buy their own and treat every tank until the effects are no longer noticed.
For flushing oil systems I add k1 kerosene or on road diesel, 3/4 quart in 4-5 quart systems and 1-1.25 quarts in 6-8 quart systems, 2 quarts in 12 quart systems. Idle for 30 minutes, raise rpm to 1500 in diesels or 2500 in gas for 5 minutes then immediately change the oil, suggest a second oil change at 1500 miles or less. 2oz in a lawn mower, run 15 minutes then change the oil. Do not drive, mow or load the engine up from doing work or other services like inductions while doing this!!
If you want something to attempt to free up rings or to add to fuel in carb engines to attempt to remove varnish clogged jets and screens I like B12 chemtool, I have seen it work small miracles in those situations.
Huh. Seems like we went through this about 6 months ago and you said you'd never tried it (although you were sure it was snake oil).
So I guess I convinced you to try it...?
Uh no... I stated that I used seafoam on outboards when owned a fishing lodge and then bore scoped afterwards.
Huh. FWIW, in addition to chainsaws, I've dumped SF down the intake on RWC marine GM 350s and it worked on those, too (blew out a lot of carbon which builds up in a RWC V8 since RWC t-stats hold the temperature below 140°F to keep salt buildup down)...never used SF on outboards though (I hate em)...
Not that this is necessarily any kind of "proof" ... you can also take a garden hose and dump cold water down the throat of a V8 and blow out a lot of carbon...
I wonder if it would clog the Cat?
huskydave
Addicted to ArboristSite
you can spray water in the intake to do the same thing and it costs nothing, I have to agree about the additives I have yet to see one work well in the real world consistently, my 2 cents.
No cat in a marine 350
They have "wet exhaust manifolds" (water cooled)
Oh -- you mean in a car. Dunno. I doubt it. If worried, use a few gallons of distilled water...NB you have to dump it in surprisingly fast to accomplish anything. Think: Like as fast as you can pour it in, garden-hose style.
To be clear. I've used seafoam in two strokes and inspected with a bore scope after. It didn't remove squat.
Similar threads
