268xp rebuild, upgrade to 272?

[fast*st]

Heya
Posting rookie here, have a quick question, I browsed around and could not find an answer that seemed inline, hopefully its the right forum.

I have a 268XP, picked it up new a long long time ago, chewed through a 100' spool of chain and a few bars along the way and I noticed, while browsing saws in the sawstore, they have a published expected life in hours. Using this as the primary saw for oh, heck, 8 + years? 10 maybe? I've never overhauled the engine. I picked up a 136 Husky from the sawstore for $100 used, excellent small wood saw, 8 inch and less. In a comparison between the well used 268xp and my neighbors new rancher, there didn't seem to be much difference in power. Here's the question.

From Baileys, a jug and piston kit runs under $100 (china or good?) I'm found online during a search of the entire tech manual for all husky saws in a pdf and it seems the only bigger saw that shares the same stroke is the 272, 4cc's isn't much but the kit price is the same and the carb is the same, so 4 free cc's. Is this a good swap? Would a used 288 crank fit the 268 case for a bigger upgrade? I'm thinking case volume might come into play as its a tuning parameter for 2 stroke dynamics. What's the best way to get max working performance out of a good husky saw?

Thanks a bunch in advance!

-Jason

 

[SawTroll]

The 272xp actually replaced the 268xp, so that would probably be a good bet - the raise in power should be about .3 kW.

The non se/xp 268 was introdused at the same time, and has substantially less power, so beware of p&cs for that one......

 

[Freakingstang]

The 272 topend is a direct fit on the 268. The 272xp is a great running saw. power like a 372, with more torque.

If your 268 is a regular 268 you will see a noticable gain in power. If yours is a 268xp, you should see a little bit of HP, but more torque in the cut, especially with a longer bar.

 

[Freakingstang]

The 288 is a totally differant saw. The 281/288 are in the same engine family and they interchange, but not with the 266/268/272 family

 

[fast*st]

Excellent info, not that I don't know Jack, but we're recently introduced. I've had good luck on the buyer beware site of ebay, recently bid on a 268 and the close up of the serial tag shows its a non xp. My lil pdf doesn't differentiate between the xp and non xp 268, what were the big features that made an xp the xp? The ebay 268 was good compression but non running, figured it'd be good just to have extra parts such as covers and handles and the like. Though I may check it out, get it to a running state and try to turn a small profit on it and work my way up to one of the larger saws.

Seeing this looks like the ultimate well for information, it seems the last two (or three) digits in the husky line are the rough displacement in cc's so what's the first digit mean? 1x kinda looks like a light poulan homehacker kind of saw, but then there's the missing first number, and 2,3,4, and 5?

Thanks to everyone so far, looks like the 272 jug and slug is the way to go.

-Jason

seems popular to add the saws as a sig.. umm..

Husky 268xp (soon to be +P) Husky 136, Mac 10-10, Mac 6-10, Homey XL/2 cheezysaw but still goes, slowly.

 

[motosierra]

The 272 topend is a direct fit on the 268. The 272xp is a great running saw. power like a 372, with more torque.

If your 268 is a regular 268 you will see a noticable gain in power. If yours is a 268xp, you should see a little bit of HP, but more torque in the cut, especially with a longer bar.

All information is 100% on the mark.... and the 272 will make you pay attention!...no sleeping on the job

 

[motosierra]

...it may only be .3kW or 4cc's on paper but when you have got it in your hands... it feels like a lot more.... and I know I have to pay attention...

 

[SawTroll]

....what were the big features that made an xp the xp? ....

The se and xp have closed porting in the cylinder, the later (plain) 268 has open porting.

There may also have been other differences, if you want to know for sure, check out the IPLs at Huskys web-site.

I believe the "cutoff" date was around late 1990/early 1991.

 

[gatkeper1]

I was unaware that the 272 cyl/piston kits were available in the aftermarket for 100.00.
Where have you found them?

 

[fast*st]

I was unaware that the 272 cyl/piston kits were available in the aftermarket for 100.00.
Where have you found them?

Well, need to eat a lil crow on that one! Baileys has the 268 kits for $100 piston rings and cyl, but the 272 kits were found on ebay for $270, still seeems worthwhile http://stores.ebay.com/RANDYS-ENGINE-REPAIR

Any other better places to get saw parts? I've always used Baileys and had great luck with them.

-Jason

 

[Mr.]

For $400 you can make the 288 crank fit. With the 288 crank and 272 piston and cylinder you have an 81cc saw.

My $.02 is go with the 268 gear. You won't notice alot. Spend the extra coin sending it to WHS if you want a real performer.

Fred

 

[gatkeper1]

One of the sponsers, CbaileyBG, has a used set on ebay.
http://cgi.ebay.com/272-Husqvarna-C...2080260QQihZ018QQcategoryZ79666QQcmdZViewItem

 

[AZLOGGER]

Seeing this looks like the ultimate well for information, it seems the last two (or three) digits in the husky line are the rough displacement in cc's so what's the first digit mean? 1x kinda looks like a light poulan homehacker kind of saw, but then there's the missing first number, and 2,3,4, and 5?

Thanks to everyone so far, looks like the 272 jug and slug is the way to go.
Jason

Jason: The 1st number on all Husqvarna saws designates the generation of the saw, and the remaining numbers are a close approximation of cc's.
Example 272=2nd generation-72cc's 372=3rd generation-72cc's
Hope this explains your question.
Robert

 

[SawTroll]

Jason: The 1st number on all Husqvarna saws designates the generation of the saw, and the remaining numbers are a close approximation of cc's.
Example 272=2nd generation-72cc's 372=3rd generation-72cc's
Hope this explains your question.
Robert

That is generally true, but they have reused the first numbers to an extent that messes up the picture quite a bit, and by now they use the "1" to designate the Poulan assambled homeowner saws, and the "4" to designate the latest generation Swedish made consumer models......

At one time, they also used two-digit numbers to distinguish anything but full blown pro models, like the 61, 66, 44, 42, 50, 51, 55, 41, 36 and the older 30-series, from the pro saws.

 

[fast*st]

For $400 you can make the 288 crank fit. With the 288 crank and 272 piston and cylinder you have an 81cc saw.

My $.02 is go with the 268 gear. You won't notice alot. Spend the extra coin sending it to WHS if you want a real performer.

Fred

Fred, I'm likely mistaken someplace but the 268/272 look like they share a 34mm stroke where the 288 runs a runs a 38mm stroke, where does the extra 2mm go? shim the jug upwards? Or would the case need to be modified? I'm also guessing the 372 is a completely different animal as to how the jug fits the case and that it has a 36mm (?) stroke

-Jason

 

[Freakingstang]

For $400 you can make the 288 crank fit. With the 288 crank and 272 piston and cylinder you have an 81cc saw.

My $.02 is go with the 268 gear. You won't notice alot. Spend the extra coin sending it to WHS if you want a real performer.

Fred

Funny you mentioned that...I was thinking about mentioning it and thought I'd leave it alone as most of these guys run stock saws.... Doesn't seem very economical to the average firewood cutter.... I meant to say it isn't a direct bolt in swap.

But like with anything, it is all about money. You can do just about anything with the right amount of cash!!!

 

[Mr.]

We'll find a place for it, but a different jug would be best if you were going that route. i.e. $100 288 piston/cylinder

You can make it fit without, but it is easier to use the "right" jug.

Fred

 

[Mr.]

Like I said the smart money is get the cheap cylinder and send it to Dean.

Your saw will be a REAL performer then.

Fred

 

[Mr.]

But like with anything, it is all about money. You can do just about anything with the right amount of cash!!!

Us Mustang guys know that all too well. SIGGHHH

Fred

 

[fast*st]

Thanks tons for all the information!

I think the plan so far will be, upgrade ol reliable 268xp to a 272xp

evaluate the ebay 268 to see if its junk or workable, perhaps give
it a minor overhaul if needed, or if the piston is junk, give it the
used 268xp cyl and piston and a new ring? Then unload it.

Unload the Homelite super2 and the three macs. Then aim for
the old maxim, no replacement for displacement. What's the general
opinion on the 395xp, though the 288xp would likely be just fine for
all the big firewood cuts, then use the dickens out of the lil 136
for all the small stuff. Sure its a poulan but its the right color.