.27 Vs 3/8" Chain Thickness

[Wesson]

Hello Folks:

I'm purchasing my first chain saw and decided to buy a Husqvarna (also looked at Stihl). I was interested in the model 353 with an 18" bar, but learned that it has only a .27" thick chain. I have been using a friends Stihl (036 Pro) for some time and comes equipped with a 3/8" thick chain. I really liked the performance of the Stihl - it cut through soft and hardwoods like it was cutting through butter. How critical is chain thickness to get good performance? To get a 3/8" thick chain on a "Husky" I'd have to buy the new Rancher 454 or one of their "pro" saws - all considerably more expensive than the Husqvarna 353. My cutting tasks include some forest clearing to build a house and then only forest maintanance and firewood for personnal use. Your help appreciated.

Peter

 

[TimberPig]

You've got a few things confused. First, you are mixing up "thick" with chain pitch. Pitch is the distance between links of the chain, which is properly measured by measuring between 3 rivets of the chain and dividing by 2. The '3/8" thick' you refer to on your friend's saws is actually 3/8" pitch. The '.27 thick' you refer to does not exist, but I'm sure it refers to .325" pitch chain. The 3/8" chain is heavier and requires more power from the saw to turn it, as well as adding slightly more load due to a larger bite of the wood being taken in many cases by 3/8" chain.

For a 353, the .325" will likely produce faster cutting than will 3/8" chain. It is possible to set the 353 up with 3/8" chain, but it will slow your cutting somewhat. I would suggest you use .325" chain on the 353, rather than 3/8", and just forget about the comparison to the chain on your friends' larger saws.

I would also suggest you buy the 353 rather than a 455, as the 353 is a better built, lighter, better performing saw.

Don't forget to buy, and use safety gear (chaps, eye/ear protection, gloves, boots) as well.

If you really must have 3/8" chain, then I would advise that you should purchase a larger saw more suited to this chain size.

http://www.oregonchain.ca/tech/manual_maint.shtm
This link may help.

 

[kevlar]

I had a ms 026 and had to have 3/8 chain on it,so I coverted it, was out cutting with my buddy and his ms270 made my saw look like a dog! right before i did the engine and the muffler that is.

 

[SawTroll]

Wesson, Timberpig gave you very good advice!

The only thing I want to add, is that the best bar & chain you can get for the 353 is the .325 "Narrow Kerf" (NK).
It may be standard on the saw, but if it isn't your dealer should be able to set you up with it - either in Husky color, or in the Oregon color. It will be the same bars and chain anyway, just painted/stamped differently.

Even though Husky say that 20" is OK, 18" bar is a bit long for best performance on a 3 cube saw, so it needs all the help it can get. 15-16" bar will let the saw cut faster.

I usually have a 15" NK on my 353, and it performs very nice!

 

[eyolf]

I've got a Jonsered 2149, very similar to the husky 351 (last year's version of the 353); it came with 20" bar and the NK chain. I do most of my cutting with a 16" regular bar now; I did buy a 16" NK bar, but it was an inexpensive laminated bar, and hasn't held up. I have a 16" bar for 3/8 chain that fits the 2149; it lost about 20% cutting speed over the .325. Your difference might be a little less pronounced, as the 353 was given a couple more cc's over the 251/2149.

I use a larger saw for any heavier cutting, but that 353 will serve you very well, for your needs, provided you aren't expecting to fell and buck 30" oaks. The 353 could do that too, but it would be quite a workout!

The .325 NK will cut a kerf (cut width) of about .270, the regular .325 chain a little more, and some brand-new 3/8 chain will cut a kerf up to about .350, although I believe around 5/16 is more common.

 

[kentuckydiesel]

So I should have a .325 chain on my homelite EZ automatic??

Last time I bought a chain the guy at the local Stihl dealer gave me a 3/8 because "it would cut faster." I looked at the old chain and it was a 3/8 also. I don't know where the original chain is though, probably long worn out.

If I understand correctly, a 3/8 chain would do better with a higher torque, lower RPM saw, while a .325 would do better with a lower torque, higher RPM saw. Is this right???

Thanks, Phillip

 

[TimberPig]

They could also be both higher RPM saws, but the one with a larger engine will have more torque, and be better able to pull the larger load of the 3/8" chain, and take advantage of the cutting ability of this chain size more fully.

You would need a .325 bar and sprocket to go with the chain in order to convert the Homelite from 3/8" to .325.

 

[eyolf]

the S-EZ's came with 3/8" chain. If you're using a rim and drum setup, you must use an 8-tooth .325 sprocket on the S-EZ, which is a little too tall for 40 cc's I think you can still get a 7 tooth .325 in the old integral drum/sprocket style, but you'll need to get a .325 sprocket-nose bar too, or a solid.

That's why your dealer gave a 3/8" chain. I've got a couple of those, and they do pretty well for such an old saw with the 3/8" chain. I rigged one of mine up to use .325 chain on a 12" Husqvarna bar and it cut like a raped ape.

 

[Wesson]

Thank you, all

To everyone who responded to my inquiry - thank you! I appreciate the advice and the safety recommendations. I do intent to purchase a pair of chaps and hardhat with goggles and ear defenders As you could probably tell from my error regarding "chain thickness" I am relatively new to this activity. Your guidance was most welcome

Peter

 

[kentuckydiesel]

the S-EZ's came with 3/8" chain. If you're using a rim and drum setup, you must use an 8-tooth .325 sprocket on the S-EZ, which is a little too tall for 40 cc's I think you can still get a 7 tooth .325 in the old integral drum/sprocket style, but you'll need to get a .325 sprocket-nose bar too, or a solid.

That's why your dealer gave a 3/8" chain. I've got a couple of those, and they do pretty well for such an old saw with the 3/8" chain. I rigged one of mine up to use .325 chain on a 12" Husqvarna bar and it cut like a raped ape.

Think it'd handle more than a 12" bar? What is on there stock? 14" or so?
Also, I don't know what rim-drum and drum-sprocket styles are. How would I know and what is the difference? Thanks, Phillip

 

[lostone]

Also, I don't know what rim-drum and drum-sprocket styles are. How would I know and what is the difference? Thanks, Phillip

Rim and Drum sprocket

 

[kentuckydiesel]

Rim and Drum sprocket

Thanks. I know I may sound like an idiot but I don't know where I would have ever found anything out about aftermarket chainsaw parts and such. I've always just gone to the dealer to get stock replacements. Thanks again, Phillip

 

[lostone]

Its no problem, heck I didn't know until someone showed me, you just have to ask and people that have the knowledge on here will generally help if you give them a chance.

 

[lostone]

Kentuckydiesel what part of Kentucky are you in? I was raised in Greenup (Ashland).

 

[kentuckydiesel]

Kentuckydiesel what part of Kentucky are you in? I was raised in Greenup (Ashland).

My Grandmother on my Dad's side was born in Ashland. The whole family lives outside Louisville in Oldham County now.
Do you know Brian Higginbotham? He lives in Greenup. Real nice guy.

-Phillip

 

[lostone]

No I dont know him, but I haven't been back there in about 20 years. I have alot of family that still lives in the area, I am planning on making a trip back there this winter or early spring.