3 norway spruce removals. 3 different technics. 3 different results.

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When I have to climb a Spruce or Pine with all that sap, I would like to think at times I can put a friction / rope saver in but honestly sometimes it just takes too long, so I keep a special rope for the sappy stuff, it's not bad but it's not the one I pick when doing hardwoods. So I will set my line as high and safe as possible within some reasonable time to start working. I can pick a larger branch or 2 - three that is safe to climb up as I work, I will use landyard and climbing line together on the way up de-limbing as I go. it is comfortable,organized and productive. Worker on the ground will pull out branches and keep rope organized and we communicate about the drop zone to leave a few or little more cause you just cant keep up with the cutter, and that's ok cause you have a bit of a landing pad. When I get to the top, I will set the tag/pull line for the top and place my adjustable friction saver then, climb down to the cut point to drop the top when I get down to desired place to make my cut, I may put my box cut in while still tied in with my climbing line, and test the ground guys if they are paying attention to me if I say " ALL SET" thumbs up and they tell me to go, then Im dead. This keeps everyone paying attention all the time and keeps me honest. abviously I will retrieve my friction saver first and use it as a second tie in when cutting, then repeat as needed. Another thing I do that I never see or hear of anyone else doing is when coming down to determine the size length I will be cutting is to also see about the Flip than I can generate to lay more flat when hit's the ground minimizing lawn damage. The logs are easy to roll off any brush, and then you have a landing pad with wood too for the spar / trunk to be felled from the ground. I use the buckingham permanent 4" spikes with a double thick double upper straps pads. Very comfortable for me. I also agree with other posts that having the right boots is all the difference. I have a few different ones depending on time in tree. I am 44 years young and have been at this for 26 years, most others I see my age and younger are all beat up, spiking all the way up and down, not using their climbing rope and being comfortable elliminating the wear and tear on all your body parts. Ergonomics will help you stay young and I also feel you should keep working out to stay in shape to handle our physical job while staying injury free. Sorry so long, felt like sharing! Climb Safe.... I dont concern myself too much any more of which is faster. who cares... go home safe everyday job gets done right. you like your work, good moral with the workers, everyone is happy. If ya work Safe Smart and Steady the Production will automatically be there! :msp_sneaky:
 
it wasn't really a speed thing. it was more to see which I felt the best doing. the one I enjoyed the most with the least amount of fatigue.

I work my way down the stems using a running bowline and an 8. and a flipline, obviously. when I am ready to drop the stem, I zip down leaving my rope tied to the top and use it to pull the tree. I like that I can use that line above my lanyard and have my weight supported by both the lanyard and climbing line. to move down I just rappel a little, set the lanyard and reset my climbing line.

as to previous comments, I don't lack spike experience. I do prefer to work from a line than my spikes. to me its easier and more comfortable. I know a bunch of climbers that only set a line incase they fall and spike everything. if you took their spikes off, they would have no idea how to move around in a tree. they've removed thousands of trees and have been at it for years and years.
 
Mike,
Thats a bad habit to be climbing and then pulling trees over with the same climbing line. DONT DO IT. keep your climbing lines and rigging lines separate. Meaning only climb on your climbing lines and only rig lower pull with your working rigging lines. It's all fun and games till someone loses an eye or falls out of a tree. Please be safe.
 
I've thought about that. its my final descent pine tree rope. I wondered if the top could possibly be damaging it when it lands. mostly the stem hits the landing pads and the rope is not smashed. but sometimes it does. I was watching video of me dropping some stems and it had me thinking "I should run a butterfly choked to the tree with both tails touching the ground so I can pull it down and use a different rope to drop it". I will do that next time. thanks
 
I was wrong about the time. ! 2 hrs 20 min. .I went back thru the Loggin side ( forestry and loggin) and reposted the pics. Gotta learn how to move them around.

Here's the tramp bushler's pics from the F&L forum. I copied the URL of the pics and just pasted them on here.

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Ya. It did. The h.o. was my ground man. He couldn't pull from a straight line on the side of the drive because of the bushes. I had it faced to go on the lawn. Barley but that showed that it doesn't take alot to pull a stob off its intended lay. The orange line is my pass, rope. 4mm cord. I carry it on a piece of 3/8" plywood behind the saddle . If anyone has a better way to pack it on the saddle I'm all ears. . It works and I wind the rope around it and half hitch it off then clip it to a ring one the saddle .
 
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