30" log splitter.

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DavidInTexas

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I have a 24" log splitter from Northern I bought several years ago. It has worked fine and splits 99% of the logs I tried. I did not realize it was only 24". We are in process of building new home and been using fireplace. The fireplace can take a 32" log. I put some I had a t 30 inches and thinking that will never fit, but it does. Takes some getting use to that large of firebox . This is a woodstove glass front, and I want to use longer logs as I thin they will burn longer over night. I had some people give me wood which I was grateful for, but some were small enough that I could put 2 in side end to end to fill up the box. I had some old dried out logs and I cut them to 30" then realized my splitter was only 24". I was able to stand a few on end and split via the diameter of the log, flip it and split the other side, but that is a pain,

The log splitters I see for longer lengths are for skid steers. I do not want to purchase a skid steer to split logs. I would have other uses for it :) I was just wondering if there is some model that will do a 30" log at a reasonable price. Rental stores are only 24" also. I might just live with 24" but thought I would ask. I thought about modify it to put longer log, but then likely would not split it all the way through and would have to flip it. I am getting too old for that much work :)
 
If you can weld and fabricate or have a buddy that can... you could replace the I-beam assemble. Most likely you'll have to replace the Cylinder for one that has longer stroke. I build one with 36" stroke... 48ton for my dad. Most the metal i got from metal scrap yard.
 

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A longer log MAY burn longer. It just depends on how air tight your firebox is and how well you can control the draft. If you can't control it well enough, a longer log will just burn hotter because it has more exposed surface area.

If you can't restrict your air flow enough to get a longer burn, then you need a larger diameter log if you want it to burn longer. How the log is positioned in the fire can also increase its burn time. If your putting half rounds in, and load them bark down they will burn longer than if you load them with the split face down. Similarly, if you don't split them at all and load a complete round, it will burn a LOT longer than a split of the same approx. size. Keep in mind that no matter how you do it, a longer burn also means fewer BTU per hour. A pound of dry firewood has a fixed amount of BTU available, and some of that is going to go out the chimney. The question is how much time do you want to spread those BTU over. If you want it fast, then split it thin and give it plenty of combustion air. If you want to spread it out over more time, then reduce your combustion air, decrease the exposed surface area, and try to force the wood to burn from the outside inward with the understanding that a cool fire will also deposit more creosote on the walls of your chimney than a hot fire will.
 
If you can weld and fabricate or have a buddy that can... you could replace the I-beam assemble. Most likely you'll have to replace the Cylinder for one that has longer stroke. I build one with 36" stroke... 48ton for my dad. Most the metal i got from metal scrap yard.
As a redneck with a welder and a grinder, this is the route I'd probably try. With that said, its not as simple as extending the I-beam. Adding another 6" or 12" to the I-beam will increase how much the beam flexes if/when the hydraulics stall out. The increased deflection will then increase the bending moment that the beam is experiencing. All of this to say that you may need to also reinforce the existing beam with some additional steel to keep from bending it after you've made it longer. I haven't done those calculations for about 30 years now so I have no idea how much you might need to add, or how close to the limit you are with the stock configuration.

Another option would be to buy a 3pt style splitter that's longer, and rob the engine, pump, tank, wheels, ect off your existing splitter to convert it into a standard splitter. The only parts that would really be duplicated between the two systems are the valve and the wedge.
 
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