30cc vs 50cc chainsaw for cutting 8" hardwood

[Dacha]

Hello,

Would 50cc chainsaw cut any faster 8" hardwood than 30-35cc chainsaw ?

talking about brand name chainsaws Stihl, Husqvarna, Echo

both with proper sharp chain

i.e 12" bar on both

trying to determine what is the right tool for the task

 

[diver64]

I've not used a 30cc in the task you are asking about but I used a 41cc Husky for a number of years to cut hardwood up to 16 in diameter with a 16 in bar and it did ok. It was just light for the job. The weight of the saw is what will make a big difference. Even going from the 41cc to a 50cc Jonsered was like night and day. I'll be interested to hear others opinion on this as I don't think I'd go less than a 50cc anymore for firewood after having used one.

 

[ChillyB]

Wouldn't the teeth on a typical 50cc saw take bigger bites than the teeth on a 30cc saw chain? And the 30cc would slow down more in the cut.

Unless I had some strength issues a 50cc saw is as small as I'd go. Had a 435 buy always used my 350 for small stuff. I never timed my cut. Time actually cutting firewood is a small percentage of total work time. Being efficient between cuts shortened my day more than a fast saw. But I'm just an ccasional firewood guy.

 

[Dacha]

RPMs on both saws would be in the same ballpark. Would 8" hardwood slow down 30-35cc chainsaw with sharp chain, I don't think so.
But I am not sure definitely.

Wouldn't the teeth on a typical 50cc saw take bigger bites than the teeth on a 30cc saw chain?

I don't think so, but could be wrong.



I understand that as wood gets thicker than 8", that advantage of more cc comes into play.

But i am more interested what happens with hardwood 6" - 8" diameter.

 

[slabMan]

Wouldn't the teeth on a typical 50cc saw take bigger bites than the teeth on a 30cc saw chain? And the 30cc would slow down more in the cut.

Unless I had some strength issues a 50cc saw is as small as I'd go. Had a 435 buy always used my 350 for small stuff. I never timed my cut. Time actually cutting firewood is a small percentage of total work time. Being efficient between cuts shortened my day more than a fast saw. But I'm just an ccasional firewood guy.

To answer your question, All my 300 series Husky saws IE 350, 353, 351 cut hardwood faster than my 026, ms260 saws mainly because the .325 pitch chain [on Husky's] have less drag than my 3/8 chain on my 50cc Stihl saws. I run full house [compliment] and full chisel and square grind for clean wood only. Anything near the dirt, I will run semi chisel for dirty wood. I wouldn't mess around with anything less than a 50 cc saw, since weights are close to the same for 30 cc saws. As for your "bigger bites", the 3/8 will take more material, but that is not necessarily a good thing. IE more drag. You can dink around with the raker depth with a larger engine saw, if you want the cut to be more aggressive, but I think your larger cc saw with lighter/narrower chain will be good. You can still run .325 on Stihl saws in that engine size as well. You don't need to regrind square with square and you can regrind with round on square chain. Be Safe.

 

[moxiemaul]

30cc saw a lot lighter to swing. 50cc sure will cut the 8" faster but its not like it'll take half the time and you still have to swing the weight- even moreso if its on the ground. If that 8" wood is on the small end, tending up to 16" or more then the 50cc for sure. But if its 8" tending down to branches and twigs then I'd be on the 30cc.

 

[Valpen]

Some of us mature/old guys tend to prefer the smallest saw for the job.
8" hardwood doesn't need 50cc if your chain is sharp and your saw is tuned.
The smaller saws tend to use thinner/narrower chains and bars than larger saws, so they have less wood to cut.
So they can cut really fast as well.
They tend to be lighter (so you get less tired and are a safer operator), more balanced, and you can handle/control the saw more easily.
If you want more "reach" than 12", many 35-40cc saws can handle bars up to 16".

My go-to saw is an older pro Stihl 35cc saw with 3/8Picco chain on a 16" light narrow bar.
It is a joy to use all day long, and I smile just thinking about it.
It can handle 14" oak/ash in a reasonable fashion if necessary...

 

[Dacha]

30cc saw a lot lighter to swing. 50cc sure will cut the 8" faster but its not like it'll take half the time and you still have to swing the weight- even moreso if its on the ground. If that 8" wood is on the small end, tending up to 16" or more then the 50cc for sure. But if its 8" tending down to branches and twigs then I'd be on the 30cc.

Its 8" tending down to branches

 

[Valpen]

Its 8" tending down to branches

Then you should be looking for smaller, lighter, good balance and with a longer bar than 12" (in my opinion)...

 

[Marley5]

For 8" stuff you don't need a 50cc saw.
I carry 3 saws usually and my Echo CS 310 gets used the most..... until I need a bigger saw.

 

[Dacha]

So what would be prefered chainsaw, bar and chain setup ?

Or any 30-35cc chainsaw with any bar and any sharp chain will pretty much do the same job ?

 

[Valpen]

So what would be prefered chainsaw, bar and chain setup ?

Or any 30-35cc chainsaw with any bar and any sharp chain will pretty much do the same job ?

It is going to depend on your budget... If not an issue, the Stihl MS201 with a 16" light bar would be my first choice...
I haven't bought a new saw in years, there are lots of guys on this forum who can give you better and current advice if you give them your budget...

 

[Dacha]

mechanical carb, not ready for m-tronic. All 30-35cc non electronic carb chainsaws are in the same price range as far as i have noticed.

What about chain gauge, chain size implications ?

 

[Lee192233]

I like running my MS180 with a 14" bar. It has 3/8 picco, .050 gauge.

It'll cut 12" hardwood but you need to let the chain do the work.

 

[Valpen]

I like running my MS180 with a 14" bar. It has 3/8 picco, .050 gauge.

It'll cut 12" hardwood but you need to let the chain do the work.

3/8 picco, .050 gauge is all I use (except for the 044 and the polesaw)...

 

[diver64]

Its 8" tending down to branches

That being the case a smaller saw will get it done as I cut 6-8 cords a years of smaller hardwood with my 41 Husky but I'd go with the longest bar set up you can fit to save your back. It really helps

 

[moxiemaul]

I like a 30cc with 12"/14" bar when in the usual situation of a downed tree presenting the tangle of branches, whatever dead stuff it pulled off the other trees as it came down, compressed limbs and saplings ready to jump and be naughty, plus whatever brush is involved. Theres a bit of work up high and down low clearing the work area and a small, light and short saw makes it a lot easier. Once the small branches and twigs are out of the way and the footing is more clear use then longer bars and heavier saws. One Saw To Conquer Them All is liable to be a compromise in all areas and making the job harder.