30cc vs 50cc chainsaw for cutting 8" hardwood

[chainbrake]

I've not used an MS170. I worked on a clean up crew (disaster relief) with a guy that was running an MS180 and what I remember from that was that the chain speed was a noticeably slower than what I was accustomed to when running my 024, 026, and 036 saws. Same was true with my friends little Echo that I ran on a different trip. There are several things that influence the no-load chain speed on a saw, and no load chain speed is a decent indicator of the cut speed, but the chain speed in the cut is what's really important. My 036 is tuned to about 12,000 rpm, but it will walk all over my 50cc saws (tuned to 14,000) no matter how I set the 036 up. More displacement unusually means the RPM doesn't drop as much in the cut.

If the MS241 is the best 45-50cc saw you have access to, then I'd just keep the 30cc machine you have. My 024 is a lot slower than my 026 running the same bar and chain, and I'm guessing the same is true between the 241 and 261. If so, the difference between your 30cc saws and a 241 may not be noticeable. Realistically, if you're only cutting a rick of wood at a time, what you already have is fine. I'd just keep running what you have until its time for the machine to be replaced and then consider whether or not you should move up or not.

My 170 was really gutless, but I got it to run faster by removing the spark arrestor, bending the exhaust holes more open then retuning the carburetor. It seemed to give it 25% more power. It is nothing like my 400, but it has far less weight and less torque pulling on my arms when I am cutting sideways chest and head high for the really limby (not too hard hardwoods and softwoods). If I am in a hurry and want to leave everything less than 4" on the ground, I can dismember and block out a tree in a hurry with the 400. When I was younger, I would have stayed with a 60 cc or bigger pro saw all day long, but now that I am 69... and semi-retired.

 

[chainbrake]

My 170 was really gutless, but I got it to run faster by removing the spark arrestor, bending the exhaust holes more open then retuning the carburetor. It seemed to give it 25% more power. It is nothing like my 400, but it has far less weight and less torque pulling on my arms when I am cutting sideways chest and head high for the really limby (not too hard hardwoods and softwoods). If I am in a hurry and want to leave everything less than 4" on the ground, I can dismember and block out a tree in a hurry with the 400. When I was younger, I would have stayed with a 60 cc or bigger pro saw all day long, but now that I am 69... and semi-retired.

PPE is also important. Match your fallers pads with your saw speed:
https://www.stihl.ca/en/professional/useful-knowledge/occupational-safety/cut-protection

 

[Dacha]

PPE is also important. Match your fallers pads with your saw speed:
https://www.stihl.ca/en/professional/useful-knowledge/occupational-safety/cut-protection

My PPE:

Oregon Yukon all round trousers
Stihl hardhat with ear muffs and face mesh screen
Plastic glasses
Various leather gloves

I wear hiking / trekking shoes

Missing anything ?


Dont have wood sappie or felling and turning lever, which i feel could be useful.

 

[chainbrake]

My PPE:

Oregon Yukon all round trousers
Stihl hardhat with ear muffs and face mesh screen
Plastic glasses
Various leather gloves

I wear hiking / trekking shoes

Missing anything ?


Dont have wood sappie or felling and turning lever, which i feel could be useful.

Looks like you are thinking about safety, and gear yourself up.

I always wear logging boots (waterproof/insulated in the winter) but that is because I have the gear from the days when I used my saws to make more money than just cutting my own firewood. Bare minimum, I would go with steel toes under those pants of yours. Having learned the hard way and having lived with reduced mobility and strength in one of my hands/arms for more than 45 years, I tend to make sure my PPE and training meets or exceeds equipment. Injuries happen so quickly and are not worth taking risks. When I was young, I thought I was invincible.

 

[muddy42]

Full disclosure I am based in the UK. When people ask me about small saws I have two different recommendations, both equally valid. Either to buy a basic 30cc MS170 (or similar) for £150 or buy a professional 50cc MS261 for £800. Yes the second option gives you more power, is easier to fix and will last longer, but will it give you 5 times more use? (£800 divided by £150 = 5.33) I'm not sure. I think if you look after your saws, can replace parts, and use a saw lot the second option is more viable, but if you need to use a shop to service or replace parts, you're better off financially to treating saws as essentially disposable.

 

[Valpen]

Full disclosure I am based in the UK. When people ask me about small saws I have two different recommendations, both equally valid. Either to buy a basic 30cc MS170 (or similar) for £150 or buy a professional 50cc MS261 for £800. Yes the second option gives you more power, is easier to fix and will last longer, but will it give you 5 times more use? (£800 divided by £150 = 5.33) I'm not sure. I think if you look after your saws, can replace parts, and use a saw lot the second option is more viable, but if you need to use a shop to service or replace parts, you're better off financially to treating saws as essentially disposable.

What is your opinion of the MS201@35cc and MS241@42cc compared to the MS261 for handling 8" trees on sloping terrain?
Personally, I think 50cc is more weight and power than necessary...

 

[muddy42]

What is your opinion of the MS201@35cc and MS241@42cc compared to the MS261 for handling 8" trees on sloping terrain?
Personally, I think 50cc is more weight and power than necessary...

...then get a MS170 or even an electric saw.

The problem is the cost of these smaller cc professional saws is still too high for the weight/power you get (in the UK still £700 or so). If I was spending that money I would prefer to get an MS261 and fit a 13 inch bar and have something more versatile power-wise. Finally I don't know which 201 you are looking at, but I think one handed saws should only be used for climbing.

 

[Valpen]

...then get a MS170 or even an electric saw.

The problem is the cost of these smaller cc professional saws is still too high for the weight/power you get (in the UK still £700 or so). If I was spending that money I would prefer to get an MS261 and fit a 13 inch bar and have something more versatile power-wise. Finally I don't know which 201 you are looking at, but I think one handed saws should only be used for climbing.

I was referring to the rear handle MS201, not the top handle MS201T, sorry for the confusion...

 

[chainbrake]

What is your opinion of the MS201@35cc and MS241@42cc compared to the MS261 for handling 8" trees on sloping terrain?
Personally, I think 50cc is more weight and power than necessary...

Is this for commercial production, or is it for a home owner's needs? If that saw is going to harvest/manage 5+ acres of maturing forest (8+ inches), and the person using it is fit, then go with a pro saw like the Stihl 261 or a Husky 550 xp. I have had both of those saws, and they are good saws for small woodlot management.

If you are just using it for a household's annual firewood needs (5 cords or less) or for maintaining a small farm with a bit of woodland, then I say a midgrade "rancher"-style 40-50CC saw may be good enough. If a person has weak arms and legs, it is better to get a lighter saw, and take longer to do the work.

Pro saws have good resale value if they haven't been abused. You can always re-sell them.