36" bar on MS391

[JonCraig]

Hi all,

My father in law has asked me to find him a 36" bar & chain for his 391. Not so he can bury it, but because he has a bad back, and wants to remain with a straight back while limbing.

I called my local stihl dealer, and they basically said they can't, because the saw isn't rated for it. When I pressed him, he said they didn't make one--only for a 461 or 660 or 880.

So what I need is a part number for a 36" Stihl regular bar that matches the 391 mount, plus part number for the yellow (non safety) chain.

I know diddly squat about mount patterns, so any help is appreciated.

Also, his 391 has the stock sprocket--not sure which one. Does that need replacement as well?

Thanks in advance!

--JC

 

[Grande Dog]

Howdy,
The bar at your dealer for the 461 / 660 will bolt right on to your 391. I would think your dealer would sell it to you but, they might not want to actually put it on the saw for you because of application liability.
Regards
Gregg

 

[JonCraig]

That's what I thought. My only question now, really, is with the sprocket. Stihl's chart lists part #3003 000 8853 for use with an 11 tooth sprocket, or a #3003 000 9653 with a 13 tooth sprocket.

That same chart for the 391 only lists a 10 tooth sprocket. Should I buy an 11 or 13 tooth rim sprocket?

My thinking--a smaller sprocket would mean that per crank revolution, the saw is trying to push fewer teeth, so my 10 tooth would actually be a bit easier for the saw, right?

Or is it a requirement to swap the sprocket as well?

Thanks!

 

[JonCraig]

And yeah--I agree. If the shop were putting it on, there could be some liability concern. But if I'm the customer and I say, "I know what this combo implies, but I want to do it anyway," sell me the part, take my money, and don't treat me like a child.

 

[LoveStihlQuality]

The Stihl part numbers for the bars begin 3003 (the 880 is large mount 3002). Be sure to match sprocket bar and chain pitch, probably 3/8 and guage, probably .050.
Now a big bar will be a heavier and not necessarily good idea
for bad back, will wear him out sooner. Lastly, that's a lotta bar. If limbing, that long bar will be close to feet and legs. Heavy boots and chaps at a minimum

LoveStihlQuality

 

[JonCraig]

Yessir--always proper PPE. The saw runs a 3/8 .50 20" now, so will I be good with the .50 36" on the sproket I have now (provided, of course, I get a 3/8 .50 chain of matching length?)

 

[LoveStihlQuality]

Sproket should be a rim sprocket and should say 3/8 - 7. 7 pin. If it's not a rim sprocket, good idea to change over.

LoveStihlQuality

 

[blsnelling]

That long of a bar hanging out on the end of an undersized powerhead is likely to bother his back far more than a proper setup. A 28" outs the absolute max I would consider. You should really consider a ES Light bar as well.

 

[LoveStihlQuality]

That long of a bar hanging out on the end of an undersized powerhead is likely to bother his back far more than a proper setup. A 28" outs the absolute max I would consider. You should really consider a ES Light bar as well.

Waay off balance to. I don't even care for a 25 on my 362s.

LoveStihlQuality

 

[JonCraig]

I agree. But he wants what he wants. :-/

I believe it has a rim sprocket on it already. Does it matter how many "sections" it has?

 

[LoveStihlQuality]

I agree. But he wants what he wants. :-/

I believe it has a rim sprocket on it already. Does it matter how many "sections" it has?

36 b&c especially Light model will be pricy. Should be 7 pin. If it's 8, the saw would struggle even more. Good Luck

LoveStihlQuality

 

[LoveStihlQuality]

I agree. But he wants what he wants. :-/

I believe it has a rim sprocket on it already. Does it matter how many "sections" it has?

Sprocket will say 7 or 8 on its face. 95% its 7.

LoveStihlQuality

 

[Homelitexl903]

Hmmm. The oiler on that saw in not made for a 36 inch bar. Don't know if thats a big issue, since it will be for limbing. 36 will be very nose heavy and cause him strain trying to balance the saw. How tall is he? Im 6'1 and a 28" bar works for me so I dont have to bend. Anyways I'm interested in seeing how it does if you can make a video for us.

 

[JonCraig]

Sure--will try.

Funny thing is, I asked him if he wanted to use my 460 and he declined. Lol.

 

[Grande Dog]

Howdy,
When they're talking 10,11,or 13 tooth, it's in reference to the number of teeth on the nose sprocket. the larger number of teeth, the larger the radius of the tip. If the wood is actually on the ground, I have a 034S with a 32" bar that's my go to saw. I understand that if your trying to put food on the table this is not optimal but, if you're just trying to put wood in the stove, be comfortable, and safe. When I'm comfortable with what I'm working, I can spend more time thinking about what I'm doing, instead of how I'm feeling. If I fall a tree with a crown where I have to use the saw above my waist I've 338C with a 18" bar. If I can keep my back straight the weight's not a problem as much as even being slightly bent. When it comes to crosses to bear, everybody is probably a little different than anybody else.
Regards
Gregg

 

[zogger]

Well, I'll offer a longer reach alternative that won't involve bending over and will still reach small limbs. There's a different tool entirely you can use for that, a pole saw. I don't know what the shortest one available is, but just something else to consider over this idea of putting a heavy bar on a saw not designed for it.

 

[94BULLITT]

You can almost buy a cheap gas pole saw for what a bar and chain is going to cost especially if you buy a light bar.

 

[Justsaws]

I'm not a fan of the 391 and do not own one. However, it should be fine for the stated purpose as long as the operator is careful not to max out the anti-vibe and tug out the bar or AV mounts.Oiler might be iffy, only way to tell is to give it a try.

No need for the large sprocket tip.

I would be looking at non Stihl branded bars myself for this application. Stihl bars are spendy.

 

[wde_1978]

That long of a bar hanging out on the end of an undersized powerhead is likely to bother his back far more than a proper setup. A 28" outs the absolute max I would consider. You should really consider a ES Light bar as well.

+1 on the above.

36" is too much of a bar if the operator is not in top physical condition!
It is also not an optimal setup for limbing as it brings the bar closer to the legs.
While having to bend over one actually moves the bar forward and away from the legs.
And yes, a 36" bar will be extremely tiring - one continuously needs to exert pulling force on the front handle countered with pushing force on the rear handle thus effectively bending ones back like a question mark just to hold the saw off the ground.

You should try find someone who can lend You a 36" B&C setup so Your dad can give it a try and quite possibly reconsider his choice.
I don't think Your dads back will be happy with such a setup, nor will You be if he gets grounded with more severe back issues from using it!

This is how a 36" B&C setup looks like on a Dolmar PS-7900, I am about 192 cm tall and weigh 105 Kg.
The Dolmar PS-7900 becomes a pig with that setup, a beautiful one but a pig nonetheless.

 

[a. palmer jr.]

That long of a bar hanging out on the end of an undersized powerhead is likely to bother his back far more than a proper setup. A 28" outs the absolute max I would consider. You should really consider a ES Light bar as well.

I have an 18" bar on my 390 and it works great! I can't imagine a 36 on it.. I do have larger bars on other saws however, not as much fun to run though..