36" bar on MS391

[CascadeHusky]

Howdy,
When they're talking 10,11,or 13 tooth, it's in reference to the number of teeth on the nose sprocket. the larger number of teeth, the larger the radius of the tip. If the wood is actually on the ground, I have a 034S with a 32" bar that's my go to saw. I understand that if your trying to put food on the table this is not optimal but, if you're just trying to put wood in the stove, be comfortable, and safe. When I'm comfortable with what I'm working, I can spend more time thinking about what I'm doing, instead of how I'm feeling. If I fall a tree with a crown where I have to use the saw above my waist I've 338C with a 18" bar. If I can keep my back straight the weight's not a problem as much as even being slightly bent. When it comes to crosses to bear, everybody is probably a little different than anybody else.
Regards
Gregg

This.

Since many (most?) people on here are either too afraid of their own shadow to try something outside of manufacturer recommendation or only interested in cutting cookies, most of their advice needs to be taken with a grain of salt.

As Gregg said...if limbing means cutting up a crown so you're holding the saw high, then yes 36" is brutal for most anyone. If limbing means something like chasing up a conifer where the bar rests on the bole, length is quite nice. Since the OP mentions it is to reduce bending over(keeping a straight back) it is likely not to hold the saw high.

Obviously a 36" lightweight would be awesome. Depending on what he has now maybe a 32" would be sufficient?
F*ing around with a pole saw would not.

32-36" is the norm for 70cc saws in the PNW for pros. A 391 is pretty much 70cc weight.

Here, the norm is to run an 18" bar and then stress over whether to buy a 20" or 24/25" as your "long bar".

 

[sawfun]

How tall is he? I am 6' 2" and I tried cutting firewood laying on the ground with a 460 and 36" lightweight bar and it put the saw too high in the air for my back. 28" bars work so much better there was no comparison and 20" bar saws tend to hurt my back if not limbing at waist height so a 28" lightweight is the sweet spot for me.

Do him a favor and if you can at all swing the extra dough, get a Stihl lightweight bar. A nose heavy saw feels much heavier because the saw not only pulls down, it twists the front grip in your hand thereby stressing you body more. My buddy and I were in Madsens saw shop and hefted a 372 and 390 both with 32" bars. Wile the 390 weighed a good two lbs more, it felt much lighter due to it not having the excessive forward pull.

As has been mentioned before, the oiler on that 391 is only rated for 25" at best. No way it can effectively oil a 36" bar. 28 will be a stretch.

 

[JonCraig]

Good point about the definition of "limbing". What he wants it for is after the tree is on the ground, to remove all the limbs from the trunk.

I thought about the oiler. To be honest, I'm guessing this whole plan won't last too long. So hopefully things don't get too hot.

I also agree with the concerns about being stupid heavy and way out of balance. He gets these wild hairs and runs with them. Hey--maybe in a couple weeks I'll have a very lightly used 36" bar for sale. ;-)

 

[logeeland]

You need and 8 tooth sprocket, a wheel to carry it, the balance will suck, and when he says bury it he is speaking the truth. After a few hours dig a hole and bury that saw because it will be dead.

 

[Wood Doctor]

You need and 8 tooth sprocket, a wheel to carry it, the balance will suck, and when he says bury it he is speaking the truth. After a few hours dig a hole and bury that saw because it will be dead.

I have to agree. My 391 has trouble pulling a 25" bar. My 361 even does a better job doing that. I haven't tried porting the 391 yet, but that's probably the only thing that will save it.

 

[Homelitexl903]

Max bar the oiler and saw can handle but will probably lead to a shorter than normal life of saw. No reason a 039,390 or 391 should have trouble pulling a 25" bar properly muff modded and tuned correctly.

 

[Wood Doctor]

Max bar the oiler and saw can handle but will probably lead to a shorter than normal life of saw. No reason a 039,390 or 391 should have trouble pulling a 25" bar properly muff modded and tuned correctly.

Thanks for showing me this. Maybe there is hope after all. That thing in Maine would stay even with my 046. Gasp!

 

[blsnelling]

That was skip chain and it still struggled.

 

[CascadeHusky]

That was skip chain and it still struggled.

It would have cut cookies better had it not been fighting itself due to having too-tight chain.

 

[Grande Dog]

Howdy,
It doesn't matter how long the bar is under no load. The amount of power required to spin the chain on a 20" compared to a 36" on a 4 cube saw is negligible at best. The size and species of wood will determine power requirements. I know this is a little dated but, around here when the transition form cutting old growth to cutting second growth and re-harvests was going on, a 262 with 32" bars sold like hotcakes. Steep ground, smaller trees and lots of branches. Very little stump work and bucking but, lots of limb work. The long bar let you work the log with out getting off it.
Regards
Gregg

 

[LoveStihlQuality]

Any update on the 36" bar?

LoveStihlQuality

 

[JonCraig]

I wound up convincing him to use my 460 instead. Convinced him that the better oiler would protect his $150 bar & chain, lol. He liked the easy reach and used it that way for half a day. I also ran it through a 50" diameter red oak. It didn't miss a beat.

Funny--when he was using the 460 I grabbed my Homelite Super XL 925 to finish off some of the cuts on the trunk. He's always been a Stihl guy and I think he was surprised that my "old antique" could still keep up.

 

[marti384]

Is there any concern about hanging a longer, heavier bar on that plastic case saw? At least I think that is a plastic case. I have seen a plastic case saw crack at the bucking spike from over aggressive leveraging. Just curious if a long heavy bar hanging off it would do the same at the bar mount area.

 

[JonCraig]

It was an option on the 460 originally, so I'm not worried.

 

[a. palmer jr.]

Is there any concern about hanging a longer, heavier bar on that plastic case saw? At least I think that is a plastic case. I have seen a plastic case saw crack at the bucking spike from over aggressive leveraging. Just curious if a long heavy bar hanging off it would do the same at the bar mount area.

I've seen some of the metal saws break there also..

 

[HuskyHeadDave]

I run a 32" skip on my 391... Oregon bar Stihl chain... Lighter lube... It works... I'm not trying to fell big timber with it... I limb with a shindawia power head multi tool and a 12" bar with .43 ... Gotta real bad back... Had a couple hard core tough guys do sum lip smacking... I have like 6' of reach high thirties in cc's spinning a 12 and razor sharp chains... I fly right past them... All bent over... I'm cutting 16" pieces of firewood like a ninja! Weedwacking thirty years does help with the accuracy ... I reckon.... Just picked up an echo three foot Extention piece so I can throw a 380 going to waist on it and make me another one. A new bar a chain goes a long way in the cheapo's... Had a customer give me a toro four stroker multi with the saw... It's running an old stock brand new 1/4" 12 inch bar and chain... Might be Mac or Homelite.... That 1/4 inch chain cuts just fine.... It's some aggressive sharp little beaver teeth!

 

[HerdBull99]

You can almost buy a cheap gas pole saw for what a bar and chain is going to cost especially if you buy a light bar.

I HAVE NEW 661C CAME 28"
PUT NEW 36"ES BAR ON IT!!
I HAVE NEW MS391 25"BAR
WORKS & CUTTS GREAT!! BOTH OUR 10 TOOTH TIP
SPROCKETS!! CAN YOU EXCHANGE BARS, ?? ON THESES 2 SAWS??