372 just wont run right...

[Brent Nowell]

starting to hate this saw... I dunno if this is an xtorq thing or clearly just me but I cannot get this saw to run right... Thought I fixed this a while back but I clearly jumped the gun thinking I remedied the problem.

LONG story short
Idles at about 2700 jumping around +/- 2-300rpm. If you let it sit while idling for 30 seconds and blip the throttle slightly puff of smoke and she wants to die. If you blip it a bit longer it sounds normal and responsive.
If you blip the throttle after 5 seconds from the previous blip functions normally.
fuel seems to be pooling in the crankcase IMO cause after 30 seconds of idling and you blip it there’s a puff of smoke indicating fuel down there and flooding it out resulting in a stall unless you give it more throttle to “clear it out”
Turning the saw on its side after 30 seconds will have it almost stall unless you give it some gas.. again with a puff of smoke and IMO pooling fuel in the crankcase. I have leaned out the L jet and adjusted the idle screw to as far as they can go and it still does this, same goes for opposite.

so I go back to what I THOUGHT I knew about carbs, metering lever height.
checkthe service manual and it is saying flush with the body of carb. This can’t be right cause there is a tit on the diaphragm and if that were true it would never even start.
Did some research and found a thread on the ********* discussing this in which the xtorq models require the lever height equal to the base of the bowl and not the body.
checked this with a straight edge and yes it is perfectly flush, and I mean perfect.

this saw will pass pressure and vac tests all day long, I did it and she holds.
Lmao I thought I knew what I was doing and I feel like I don’t and I shouldn’t be giving advice like I do. There’s nothing worse than teaching mis information!
what am I doing wrong?
I am starting to conclude that this little red barn piston may be the issue, or the zero base gasket with 18 thou squish. The piston ports are much different from stock and this could change the way fuel air behaves in the saw?
She still runs but my little 525 can idle all day long without any issues such as these lol

 

[Woodslasher]

It sounds like a carb issue to me. It reminds me of my brother‘s 372. Half the time the saw would run fine, half the time it would smoke, run poorly and have throttle issues. If you have a friend/friendly saw shop with a running xtorq 372, try swapping out the carb from that into yours and see if that fixes it. Beyond that, I’m stumped.

 

[huskihl]

The lower strato ports on the am piston along with the intake side should be identical to a stock piston
The idle varying 2-300 rpm is probably the coil advancing and retarding the timing near idle speeds.

 

[Brent Nowell]

The lower strato ports on the am piston along with the intake side should be identical to a stock piston
The idle varying 2-300 rpm is probably the coil advancing and retarding the timing near idle speeds.

Interesting... why would it do that at idle speeds?
I should try and attach a video

 

[cuinrearview]

Interesting... why would it do that at idle speeds?

Easier starts?

 

[Brent Nowell]

Here is a video with some tach footage

 

[Brent Nowell]

Flipping it over in which I feel fuel is pooling in the case

 

[huskihl]

Interesting... why would it do that at idle speeds?
I should try and attach a video

The blue coil reduces timing a few degrees at around 2800 RPM and below for easier starting

 

[huskihl]

Flipping it over in which I feel fuel is pooling in the case

I think you’re over thinking it.

Or the needle lever is .010” too high

Switch on, pull cord, cut wood

 

[Andyshine77]

A lot of saws will do that, I think it's likely good to go.

 

[9050LX]

i would spray some carb cleaner around that intake and carb while running.

 

[Brent Nowell]

I think you’re over thinking it.

Or the needle lever is .010” too high

Switch on, pull cord, cut wood

Lol i am thinking similar thoughts myself lol.
it sure feels good in the cut.
if it starts stalling i may play with the lever height once more and bend it 10 thou down.

 

[cuinrearview]

I think you’re over thinking it.

Or the needle lever is .010” too high

Switch on, pull cord, cut wood

It's too bad this site sucks so bad. I was driving tonight and had this same thought but didn't respond. Used to be a half dozen guys would say the same thing.

 

[huskihl]

It's too bad this site sucks so bad. I was driving tonight and had this same thought but didn't respond. Used to be a half dozen guys would say the same thing.

I’m a barfly, hopping from forum to forum. I get bored easily lol

 

[rupedoggy]

Do I have this correct? You messed with ports, timing, muffler etc and still expect the saw to idle and act exactly like a stock saw?????????????

 

[Robin Wood]

What spark plug are you running?
Have you tried changing the plug?

Sent from my INE-LX2r using Tapatalk

 

[Brent Nowell]

Do I have this correct? You messed with ports, timing, muffler etc and still expect the saw to idle and act exactly like a stock saw?????????????

No you do not have this correct

 

[Brent Nowell]

It's too bad this site sucks so bad. I was driving tonight and had this same thought but didn't respond. Used to be a half dozen guys would say the same thing.

I noticed since the site changed its layout, things have gone downhill. I sure dont post as much, not a fan of how its all layed out

 

[Robin Wood]

What spark plug are you running?
Have you tried changing the plug?

Sent from my INE-LX2r using Tapatalk

I know this might sound stupid or crazy, me and my dealer accidentally discovered just recently that a weak/wrong plug might not fire strongly and cause idle issues. On the sides mostly due to oil fouling the plug and slowly killing it, giving it gas can keep it alive.

When straight up the oil seems like will puddle in the case, on the sides feels like it tends to stay in the chamber more. Very noticeable in top handle and small cc saws. Might not be your case but hope you get it fixed, good luck

Sent from my INE-LX2r using Tapatalk

 

[Brent Nowell]

I know this might sound stupid or crazy, me and my dealer accidentally discovered just recently that a weak/wrong plug might not fire strongly and cause idle issues. On the sides mostly due to oil fouling the plug and slowly killing it, giving it gas can keep it alive.

When straight up the oil seems like will puddle in the case, on the sides feels like it tends to stay in the chamber more. Very noticeable in top handle and small cc saws. Might not be your case but hope you get it fixed, good luck

Sent from my INE-LX2r using Tapatalk

Robin wood
I did not think much of your initial post because i always assume spark plugs last forever...
however i see your point and it sounds like a good one. The plug is original from when I bought it... probably has 10 tanks on it or more.
ive been meaning to get a pack of plugs for all of my saws and im gonna order some now.

ive also been doing some reading on what huskhil has said about the coil.
mathew olson had a more aggressive dancing idle rpm issue but similar non the less.
IMO these coils designed for easier starts are not worth their trouble when trying to tune.... im trying to order a black unlim coil now that doesnt ship from china and takes 6 months to get here.

gonna also play around with the lever height, since its flush I think im gonna take off a little bit from the tit of the diaphragm and see how it runs.

thank you all for the advice!