49SP and 70E Build From Scratch.......or Scratches!!

[GeoffM]

Nice pictures and nice work Robin. I think that people can see from the way you work that you have spent many years using and working on these saws. As a person who spent many years repairing engines and other parts I can see the care and thought that goes into the way you work.
geoff

 

[Cantdog]

Thank you Geoff..I appreciate the kind words. I am just trying to cover a lot of small stuff that gets sometimes gets overlooked or not spoken of on this type of project. Where these saws are not current and parts NLA, most of this type of info is already lost to most folks. As they say "The devil's in the details" and another one is "If a jobs worth doing...it's worth doing right" So that is how I work...paying close attention to the details and doing it as right as I am able.

 

[GeoffM]

Those two sayings were drilled into me as an apprentice and I never forgot them. It seems not to be so important nowadays,but things are also far more hectic and it seems that that people don't have the time to do things properly.
geoff.

 

[Cantdog]

Those two sayings were drilled into me as an apprentice and I never forgot them. It seems not to be so important nowadays,but things are also far more hectic and it seems that that people don't have the time to do things properly.
geoff.

I agree...and it's to bad...there is little integrity in the world today it seems. It's an entire social thing though, nothing is done for the joy it brings...just done, to get it done. Perhaps that's why I like older saws....not ancient...I guess you might say the "middle ages" of chain saws!!

 

[pioneerguy600]

Nice job on the dinosaurs Robin...LOL
Looking real good, they will be nearly new when you are done and should out last you,..your`e not going to go cutting wood with them are ya?

 

[Cantdog]

Nice job on the dinosaurs Robin...LOL
Looking real good, they will be nearly new when you are done and should out last you,..your`e not going to go cutting wood with them are ya?

Thanks Jerry The 49Sp will continue on as it was, being used when needed (but this will be number 7 for those), It will not be expected to preform the service it used to. But still a very usable, useful, used tool. The 70 E, on the other hand will be nearly new with all the NOS parts I am using including a NOS recoil cover and clutch cover. You're probably right, other than a few tanks now and then will most likely be more of a shelf queen. The 70E is quite heavy and not a super performer by today's standards...good power and torque..and a very usable saw....but not a screamer.


And now the next set of pics......


074...closeup of NOS points set and pkg of NOS cam wipers.

075...Points plate and dust cover.

076...Points installed in the plate and wire soldered to the condenser Note the piece of paper between the contacts...shipped that way to keep the contacts apart but it also measures 0.016" which is the points setting and thus makes a suitable "feeler gage" Do you suppose that's what they were thinking???? Works for me..

077...Same pic just a bit better shot.....

078... inside of dust cover with NOS cam wiper installed.

 

[Cantdog]

Next set...

079...Points cover installed and wire retainer in place.

080...Same as above except with the felt dust washer installed on the shaft.

081...This is a shot of the timing plate. Note the bolt hole in the plate...there are actually two...they are slotted for the timing adjustment....the correct setting is "full advance" so you just rotate the plate counter clockwise to the end of the slot and tighten the bolts.

082...LOL..This is a shot of the fuel and oil caps on their chains. The 49sp, being an economy model did not come with these retainer chains...same caps but without chains. I changed these out the very first time I found a junked out 52E in about 1979...LOL!!!

083... I backtracked a little...I didn't like the way the black dust cover fit at the top so changed it out for a better fitting gray cover. Also in this shot is the H&L grommet installed...this is an NOS part too...funny I always thought these were made of hard plastic...the new ones are soft rubber...maybe they'll harden over the next 35 yrs....LOL.... Gas and oil caps installed...

 

[pioneerguy600]

The flywheel must run really close to the points cover, both the black and the gray one look to have scuff marks on them, maybe just debris getting between the flywheel and cover.

 

[rmh3481]

Most excellent thread. Enjoyed your detailed pics and discussion. What is the wristpin diameter size on these?

 

[huskydude]

I'm glad mine is a E model. Screw points

 

[Cantdog]

The flywheel must run really close to the points cover, both the black and the gray one look to have scuff marks on them, maybe just debris getting between the flywheel and cover.

Yes they do...they kinda hump up in the middle with age and that opens a space between the plastic cover and the timing plate so crap can get into the points area. It might be a debris issue but every one I've seen shows this wear....I swapped the gray one because it fit the timing plate better than the black one.

 

[Cantdog]

Most excellent thread. Enjoyed your detailed pics and discussion. What is the wristpin diameter size on these?

Both the 49SP and the 70E use 12MM wristpins..

 

[Cantdog]

I'm glad mine is a E model. Screw points

Well.....the E models are good......until they stop E'ing and if that happens, these modules are NLA you're kinda screwed. I can almost always bring failed points back to life....of course I have six sets of NOS points sets for the 49SP and another half dozen sets of used that are in very good condition. AND if I didn't have these resources I could always install a points elimination module for $15.00 or so. So as much as I enjoy the more modern saws I have with currently available electronic igns. I really don't mind points in the least and if you set them up properly they rarely need attention.

 

[Cantdog]

This edition could well be named "Gasket making 101" If you work on noncurrent saws and don't have the luxury of running down to your local dealer and picking up whatever gaskets you may need...you will have to make your own. I deal with this a lot so I thought some folks might be interested in how I cope with it.

086...I have only one isolation block to cyl gasket for the 49sp through 52 series saws. Some gaskets come apart intact and can perhaps be used again or used as a template to make a new one. Not so with these gaskets they NEVER come apart other than in pieces. Since I have only one gasket I have decided to never use it LOL!! But it does give me a super template. These are the hardest gaskets to make on the whole saw. First sharpen your pencil as sharp as you can and trace the gasket on gasket paper. Next, punch all the holes...if you cut the gasket inner and outer parts out first and then try to punch the holes you will most likely rip the gasket but if you do them first you won't have that problem. You see what I use to punch the holes...notice a fews hole in the paper outside the gasket.....checking to get the right sized punch for the bolts and impulse hole (different sizes)

087...Two gaskets completed. After the holes are punched cut the inside away with a very sharp Exacto knife...Remember!!! cut on the outside of your line when doing the inner part of the gasket. I usually try to stay about an even 1/64" outside the mark. This allows for the fact that no matter how sharp your pencil is you will always be tracing the hole a bit smaller than the original. You don't want gasket material standing proud of the intake tract sides. The outside is not as critical and I cut that out with sharp scissors.

088... I also have to make the same gasket for the 70E. This is a much easier gasket to make but I have no template so I have to take my tracing directly from the parts themselves. This is a PITA but no matter it must be done. While looking things over I notice quite a difference between the cyl tract and the isolation block passage. I am not going to work the ports on the 70E but will have address this problem with the handy Dremel..

089... 70E cyl to isolation block gasket. Sorry....fuzzy....it came out about the same as the 49SP gaskets though...

090...I though this might interest some. The white paper on the left is a template I made for two commonly needed gaskets for the 49-52 saws. The gasket paper on the right is a first attempt and I am slowly using up the base gaskets As you can see I couldn't stand wasting the center of the base gasket!!! Anyway when I need more gaskets I simply put the white copy in my scanner and cut a sheet of 0.012" thick gasket paper into the 8 1/2" X 11" standard paper size, stick it in the printer and push "COPY BLACK". Then I have 9 sets of carb and base gaskets. The carb gaskets will work on any Tilly carbs used on the Jonsereds as well.


If anyone needs a copy of this template just pm me and I can send one out. It might cost a couple of bucks to mail as it would have to be protected between two sheets of cardboard so it doesn't get wrinkled.

 

[bama]

I like how nice you can get those gaskets without peening them. That is how I do it, so far. I was just making some last night for the 520sp that I am building. I know, I know......not one of the better saws out there, but it is still fun to do.

I am loving this thread. Now, I would love to get me one of those bead blasters. I know what the boss would say, though!!

 

[Cantdog]

I like how nice you can get those gaskets without peening them. That is how I do it, so far. I was just making some last night for the 520sp that I am building. I know, I know......not one of the better saws out there, but it is still fun to do.

I am loving this thread. Now, I would love to get me one of those bead blasters. I know what the boss would say, though!!

Hey Bama!!! Yeah the bead blaster is a good thing (not necessarily that one) but then you have to have good air...lots of it...and it has to be absolutely dry air at that. The blaster was like $90.00 plus $55.00 for a bag of beads....and then of there's the T-30 Ingersoll and dryers that run other machines in my shop...that's like $2,500.00 or so. Don't tell the boss that!!!

 

[pioneerguy600]

Nice job on cutting the gaskets Robin, when working on vintage engines it is a necessary art. Cut my first copper gasket when I was 13 for my 1923 Fordson farm tractor, four cylinder high compression engine, been cutting gaskets ever since, you never get held up on a project looking for or waiting on a gasket when you can fab your own.
Oh, I also had to make 4 cylinderhead bolts for that tractor also, they were Brit thread with a tight fitting band under the head.

 

[Cantdog]

Nice job on cutting the gaskets Robin, when working on vintage engines it is a necessary art. Cut my first copper gasket when I was 13 for my 1923 Fordson farm tractor, four cylinder high compression engine, been cutting gaskets ever since, you never get held up on a project looking for or waiting on a gasket when you can fab your own.
Oh, I also had to make 4 cylinderhead bolts for that tractor also, they were Brit thread with a tight fitting band under the head.

Were those Whitworth?????

 

[pioneerguy600]

Yes they were Whitworth, we always used the slang term around here, hence Brit thread. Those tractors were made in England and shipped over here in the holds of 3-4 masters.

 

[Cantdog]

Yes they were Whitworth, we always used the slang term around here, hence Brit thread. Those tractors were made in England and shipped over here in the holds of 3-4 masters.

LOL!! Yeah I'm familiar with Mr. Whitworth.......had a series landrover problem for 10-12 yrs.......still have 5....2 109 pickups and three 88s and a pile of NOS parts....LOL!!!