Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
I take it your upset that some people run there equipment the way they see fit. Sorry to have asked a question, hoping for insight. Had I recommended you change your ways I could understand your frustration. I may continue to run my own saw at 50:1... I may not. But either way, I hope it doesn't ruin your experience here on this site. It seems like a great place and I'd hate to run you off... by asking questions (on a message board of all places).
 
you guys aren't capable of wearing a saw out cutting firewood.!!! ****'n period!!!!!

That just aint so.
I've rebuilt many saws over the years for guys that cut nothing but firewood and most of them don't sell any of it.

You don't have to be a logger to wear out a saw, it just takes longer.
 
That just aint so.
I've rebuilt many saws over the years for guys that cut nothing but firewood and most of them don't sell any of it.

You don't have to be a logger to wear out a saw, it just takes longer.

Your right, I'm sure there are some guys capable of wearing one out but very few. With a saw that's taken care of it should last a firewood cutter his life. Of course, anyone running an old logging saw might stand a chance of wearing it out too simply because it already did heavy duty cutting.
 
That just aint so.
I've rebuilt many saws over the years for guys that cut nothing but firewood and most of them don't sell any of it.

You don't have to be a logger to wear out a saw, it just takes longer.
Tree services wear out more then a few saws all over the country. Myself for my personal use I rarely buy a new saw, used, running or not, buy or trade, resell a few or several most years, get some about every year seized or wore out top ends.
 
IMG_20160223_134854758.jpg So I shouldn't be using these in my 2-piece head race saws? Not high performance enough. Relax. Just busting some tomatoes. I love me a good oil thread:givebeer:
 
To the OP. Your mix should be set based upon condition of your saw, and carb tuned based upon that specific mix. If you change the mix ratio , carb should be retuned as well. Not sure about 80 or 100/1 since I always stay in between 50 and 32/1.
 
Non of the modern saws have been around 30-40+ years to prove your point. It may work that way some times, but when the going gets extreme the lower oil content most normally fails sooner. There is no doubt by my experience that you can get more good life on an otherwise marginly worn top end by running a richer oil mixture often enough its worth a try if you don't want to go through with replacing those parts sooner.
I accidently straight gassed my 034 super about 6 weeks ago. 1st poured in straight gas on about 3/4 tank, ran it to the bottom until it quit, then filled it up with more straight gas and locked it up tight in about 5 minutes. Got it home, removed the muffler, piston looked ugly scoured but I poured in some oil, got it to turn over, put the muffler back on, had about 1/4 gallon of my usual 28 to 1 non synthetic mix, so I added about 1 1/2 oz, of Stihl ultra synthetic to that which I estimate made it about 16 to 1. Fired it up, made a few cuts, felt strong so I took it to a tree job the next day and ran about 1 and 1/2 tanks of of fuel cutting blocks up to around 20" in diameter. Couldn't tell it lost any power compared to prior the seizure. There is no doubt in my mind if I had to run 50 to 1 the engine would be trash.
I don't know how long this 1 will last now, but I did near the same ( locked up but not scoured as bad) on an 034 super about 15 years ago, and it being my only saw most of the time never failed me ( used it at 25 to 1) and was still running strong when I sold it about 7 years down the road.
No one wants to use a 30-40 year old saw for regular firewood cutting. You are simply making a fool of yourself if you proclaim that. Saws are just like cars the last thing to die is usually the engine. (of course I am not speaking of US made cars... :D)

wholey **** am i ever thinking of abandoning AS. companies run 50:1 and saws run many years production at that. guys here don't (even the heavy users) even stand the slightest bit of chance to kill a saw at 50:1. it's an absolute ****'n JOKE! guys, if you want a saw to run 50 years mix 50:1. if you planning on passing it down through a few generations mix 32:1. i have a feeling the generations ahead will want a modern saw though. you guys aren't capable of wearing a saw out cutting firewood.!!! ****'n period!!!!!
I seriously understand you!

7
 
To the OP 50:1 is fine 40:1 is fine 32:1 is fine, just tune the carb to where it burbles at WOT then cleans up under full tilt it will be ok. Dont worry about gettin bitched at, i got tore into the first post i made, theres alot of self appointed expert, keyboard warrior's, waiting to jump sombodies case about something trivial. Good luck with your new machine
 
Thank you to everyone who offered while hearted advice. To see some of you offer real world experience in a polite manner is refreshing. Often times, people find it easier to make fun of people than to actually offer assistance. I don't have any large logs at home, but a buddy has a couple large rounds he will let me use to load the saw hard enough to actually tune the Carb. I'll update those who care to hear this weekend, after I get over to his house to tune it.
 
I'd have to look at the receipt, but since Stihl thinks all top handle chainsaws are professional/commercial use only, they only warranty them for 3 months. I believe I've had it at least that long. I'm not so much worried about the warranty as I am the longevity of the saw. As some of the members have pointed out, the saw may be a little on the rich side causing a little more exhaust ooze than necessary. I'll adjust it like I have done a couple saws in the past and hope that the oily mess becomes less (but since it has a rev limiter it'll be a tab bit trickier to adjust. If the mess continues, I guess I'll just spend a bit more time cleaning it. With the limiting caps still on the carb, I doubt you could get into too much trouble adjusting the carb settings provided you use some common since. Thank you for the input though. I'll keep everyone posted
 
No one wants to use a 30-40 year old saw for regular firewood cutting. You are simply making a fool of yourself if you proclaim that. )
7
My 034 super isn't far from 30 years old and it isn't far enough behind any new 60cc saw that I want to give it up for any thing newer. It would be a waste for me because I need the $ for more necessary things and the saw cuts faster then my body can go in average wood for more then a short period of time any way. If you have spare money around it doesn't sound foolish to me to want and buy newer or better. If you don't want to blow your money and have a little common since on maintaining a chainsaw, there are quite a few 30+ year old saws capable and good enough for reliable efficient firewood cutting and much more. There are times when I rather cut with my old 30-40 year old 041super rather then risk and wear out my ms660, accidents happen, saws get smashed, stolen, etc. .
30-40 year old saws aren't for everybody but I am not alone and not a fool concerning the matter.
 
If its a rev limited saw you will have to tune in wood while cutting, i think brad already posted this but, richen the high side up alot until its acting snotty while cutting then slowly lean the hi side back out at the point it clears up and makes one long exhauat note then stop. Its good
 
Money definitely play a factor in what saw I use. In just a poor country boy trying to provide for my family. My newest saw was a PP 5020 (sold it), oldest is a Super XL automatic. The one I use the most is a Craftsman 3.7 grey version. My preference - I like the older saws they seem to have simpler designs and a wider range for tuning. They can be found for next to nothing and parts are cheap as well.
 
Money definitely play a factor in what saw I use. In just a poor country boy trying to provide for my family. My newest saw was a PP 5020 (sold it), oldest is a Super XL automatic. The one I use the most is a Craftsman 3.7 grey version. My preference - I like the older saws they seem to have simpler designs and a wider range for tuning. They can be found for next to nothing and parts are cheap as well.

I see you have a pioneer p41, i just got one, you should put a 24"bar on that mini monster!
 
No one wants to use a 30-40 year old saw for regular firewood cutting. You are simply making a fool of yourself if you proclaim that. Saws are just like cars the last thing to die is usually the engine. (of course I am not speaking of US made cars... :D)


I seriously understand you!

7
I think by your standards there are alot of fools on here, I'll call myself a fool by your standards also as I enjoy using my 30 to 40+ year old macs out in the woods. There is a certain satisfaction in using a saw that has such a simplistic design that It has no option but to run and run well. people always say the new saws start better. Well I can tell you for sure I have 50 year old macs that start better than my stihls do! Oh s*** did I say that out loud? there is nothing wrong with new saws. but there is also nothing wrong with old saws either, it's user preference, most of we Americans aren't afraid of a little hard work or a challenge. anybody here is free to use whatever we please, as we wish to use it, something about God given rights if I remember correctly, but what do I know I'm just one of them there toothless hillbillies.
 

Latest posts

Back
Top