It's all moot now with AT and MT.
Interesting different oil/ratio observation today
- Thread starter slimbo3006
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Only mtronic I have long term experience with is the ms661. I don't like the one tune for all and they only got worse with each coil update blubbering fat what I'd give to be able to tweak the high in and clean the tune up on a mtronic 661.
Yes quite often in moderate temperature regions daily tuning , is not required . Unfortunately up North here weather change is daily , swings of 25 f are quite common . I do find some saws also are effected more or less from manufacturer to manufacturer . Reed valve saws seem less tempermental to barimetric fluctuations .
Never owned a mtronic or auto tune unit . I like to tune by ear or if the coil interferes with my judgement i will connect up the tach to verify . Fortunately iam old enough that my current stable of non microprocessor saws will suffice my needs !
I've never fooled with the 661. I have with both the Husky 562 and Still 400. Both of those are bang on.
10 tanks a day is a lot of cutting. The only changes in tune I've noticed is the idle, which is a pain, especially up in a tree. As far as setting the high screw, I like my little wireless Tech Tach. Every saw has its own max rpm, for Stihl it seems to be around page 36 in the manual, and I try to set it for 250 rpm below the max, and then I forget about it unless I start bogging down in the middle of a cut.
That's laying out logs and bucking billets all day 9hr days. I could get about a load of logs bucked on one tank of fuel with 066/ms660. Then towards the end of the day for a few hrs I'd buck the offcuts into firewood blocks and go dump them in a pile ready for splitting.
This is bucking billets for a sawmill we used to cut railway sleepers.
Firewood out of the offcuts/waste from bucking billets all day lol
We cut hundreds of thousands railway sleepers over the years.
Your not lucky , most likely have a good tune & proper fuel mix & stable weather & temps . I like a crisp tune when felling & limbing , for better throttle response . During extended bucking sessions I like it a little fat . As I said previously different saws , different policy . My 346 xp & 357 xp seem a little more fussy , while my 5105 & 7900 Dolkita's seldom are far off proper tune between sessions . My MS-660 Redhead & Pioneer's all require hands on more often than not , lol just nature of the beast !
I agree, I have a few saws that are picky from daily temp swings and others that just need a slight adjustments here and there. My ported 359 being about the worst. Soon as it cools off its lean and as soon as it heats up its blubber rich. Never quite understood it. Small adjustment and she's off to the races again.
Also a savvy operator knows when to give a saw a break and let it cool if its working real heavy.
Every commercial saw I ran , always got a chain lick , cool down prior to shutdown & tank refill, even cutting simple pulp cords . Good sound advice especially reving it out of the cut & allowing it to idle a little prior to refueling or sharpening Wolfy !
That wood looks really dry and hard!
The more extreme the port work, the more finicky they are. Sub 70cc saws are usually more finicky as well.
Ported ms260's are about the worst
I've never had to let a saw cool down they do a good at cooling themselves.
Want to cool a saw down run it.. shutting off a saw only makes em heatsink and get hotter in my experience.
Some of it is only about three times harder than White Oak...Bucking something like Steel Box all day will make ya fillings fall out even with spring av
This is a ute load of some very hard dry ring barked 50 years dead standing Ironbark. I split it with a hydraulic splinter I wouldn't even bother trying to split it with an axe lol
I imagine the heat output is great. The hardest wood i have access to is osage orange.Some of it is only about three times harder than White Oak...Bucking something like Steel Box all day will make ya fillings fall out even with spring av
This is a ute load of some very hard dry ring barked 50 years dead standing Ironbark. I split it with a hydraulic splinter I wouldn't even bother trying to split it with an axe lol
View attachment 1107261
I never have either. Idling time between cuts cools them down quick.
Most of the cooling in an air cooled two stroke is from the fuel flashing to vapor in the crankcase. Shutting off the fuel, just causes them to heat soak as you mentioned.
The thing with oak in the Upper midwest is even standing dead it doesn't ever dry out. I've cut unto gypsy moth killed red oaks that had been dead for decades. The outer inch or so would be powdery/punky, but past that the center would be nearly as wet as a green tree. As such they are not that hard to cut. Sugar maple on the other hand if it's cut standing dead and it's not rotted(which is rare) is very hard because it drys right out. Elm standing dead is also pretty hard/dry when standing dead, even though it's density doesn't suggest that. Hickory would be another tough one when standing dead.Some of it is only about three times harder than White Oak...Bucking something like Steel Box all day will make ya fillings fall out even with spring av
This is a ute load of some very hard dry ring barked 50 years dead standing Ironbark. I split it with a hydraulic splinter I wouldn't even bother trying to split it with an axe lol
View attachment 1107261
Always allow your saw to idle for 30 seconds or more prior to shutting it off for sharpening or refueling . My larger ported saws at least a minute of idle time prior to shutdown .( actually any engine ) . I believe that is what Wolfy was relating to us !
Yeah , that wood most likely has a stout btu rating !
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