I am pretty sure LB oil is made from bituminum. Nasty smoky stuuf. Lwn care people call it blue death. Anyways. A LB only turns 3000? my Toro snowthrower has the same engine as a LB and I could swear it turns higher revs, although I have turned it up a bit,lol.
50:1 or 32:1 mixture
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HUSKYMAN
Addicted to ArboristSite
Cant spin the motor too fast, remember it has a direct drive connection to a 20" steel blade
On my tor it actually has agovenor with a star wheel adjuster. The adjuster will not allow you to over rev it. I suspect the factory sets them way low for warranty purposes. i actually got the idea to turn it from some lawn care guys on ************ .
xander9727- that's what smells so good?
xander, I always wondered if it was the type fuel some people use in their 2-strokes or the oil that gives that distinct 2-stroke smell. Sounds like you say its the oil. This Maxima stuff you use, does it smell like it does because it is castor oil? I love to go to the dirt bike races and sniff up that sweet 2-stroke smell. Heck if this Maxima stuff will make my saws and Toro mowers w/2-stroke Suzuki's smell like that, I gotta get me some. No matter what oil I try (Stihl, Husky, Echo, etc.) my saws and stuff don't ever have that "good" smell - simply smell like a typical hot, air-cooled engine. Therefore I assumed I needed high quality fuel that you can't buy at a gas station to give me the smell.
xander, I always wondered if it was the type fuel some people use in their 2-strokes or the oil that gives that distinct 2-stroke smell. Sounds like you say its the oil. This Maxima stuff you use, does it smell like it does because it is castor oil? I love to go to the dirt bike races and sniff up that sweet 2-stroke smell. Heck if this Maxima stuff will make my saws and Toro mowers w/2-stroke Suzuki's smell like that, I gotta get me some. No matter what oil I try (Stihl, Husky, Echo, etc.) my saws and stuff don't ever have that "good" smell - simply smell like a typical hot, air-cooled engine. Therefore I assumed I needed high quality fuel that you can't buy at a gas station to give me the smell.
eyolf
Addicted to ArboristSite
Regarding my comment about some label of two-stroke oil being ISO-L-EGD, BWalker sez:
Sorry, but I guess I don't remember if it isn't Lawn-boy. Toro, maybe? Weedeater/Poulan? I think it was one of those casual observations made while thinking about something else.
The local Hardware store also stocks a two-stroke prepackaged private label oil that says "meets ISO standards for air cooled engines" What that means is probably not only open to debate, but varies by batch.
After reading on this site that Citgo has been supplying oil to some of the OEM.s, I bought a case of 12 of their ISO-L-EGD oil. Only costs about $19 for 12 qts, and guaranteed to meet or exceed specs...probably good enough for me and will last for a couple of years. It isn't that big of a deal for me to use a measuring cup like Xander does.
Sorry, but I guess I don't remember if it isn't Lawn-boy. Toro, maybe? Weedeater/Poulan? I think it was one of those casual observations made while thinking about something else.
The local Hardware store also stocks a two-stroke prepackaged private label oil that says "meets ISO standards for air cooled engines" What that means is probably not only open to debate, but varies by batch.
After reading on this site that Citgo has been supplying oil to some of the OEM.s, I bought a case of 12 of their ISO-L-EGD oil. Only costs about $19 for 12 qts, and guaranteed to meet or exceed specs...probably good enough for me and will last for a couple of years. It isn't that big of a deal for me to use a measuring cup like Xander does.
eyeolf, The Echo oil I was talking about is in fact made by Citgo and is a iso egd certified oil which BTW is differant than just meeting specs. Anybody can claim to meet specs, doesnt hold much water till they actually pass. BY looking at the MSDS for the citgo oil it appears to be really good stuff. E mail me if you want particulars
don
ArboristSite Guru
Run 32:1 on saws
Run 32:1 on saws and went to Motul synthetic. Doesn't really smell or smoke much. Run 4 stroke mowers so don't mess with fuel mixture.
Run 32:1 on saws and went to Motul synthetic. Doesn't really smell or smoke much. Run 4 stroke mowers so don't mess with fuel mixture.
xander9727
The Silverback
Re: xander9727- that's what smells so good?
It's the castor bean that gives it the distinctive smell. I run the Maxima 927 because I like the smell. The Maxima K2 is actually better due to the fact it is a full synthetic. The 927 oil will outperform the OEM type oils. It cost more but it cuts down on the carbon build up and makes the saw last longer. Even if you buy high performance oils they are still cheap compared to the cost of an engine. If the extra $25 I spend on performance oil during the life of a saw makes it last 6 months longer I'm happy.
It's the castor bean that gives it the distinctive smell. I run the Maxima 927 because I like the smell. The Maxima K2 is actually better due to the fact it is a full synthetic. The 927 oil will outperform the OEM type oils. It cost more but it cuts down on the carbon build up and makes the saw last longer. Even if you buy high performance oils they are still cheap compared to the cost of an engine. If the extra $25 I spend on performance oil during the life of a saw makes it last 6 months longer I'm happy.
(27 will leave some nasty deposits in the exhaust because it is a castor based oil. Castor also is hydrophillic like esters so it attracts water.
xander9727
The Silverback
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xander9727
The Silverback
bwalker wrote:
"927 will leave some nasty deposits in the exhaust because it is a castor based oil"
Are you sure about this? I know that some other brands of castor bean oils can cause build up or "gumming" but, Maxima uses "degummed" castor oils and even indicates it on the back of the bottle.
"Castor 927 is a high-performance, 2-cycle premix oil blended for use in racing engines. Synthetic esters, degummed castor oil and special additives eliminate ring sticking while preventing rust and corrosion"
With as litigious as our society is today you would think the company lawyers would catch something like this if it was just there as a sales gimmick.
Additionally I have used 927 for several years and have not noticed an increase in the amount of deposits.
Please, let me know.
"927 will leave some nasty deposits in the exhaust because it is a castor based oil"
Are you sure about this? I know that some other brands of castor bean oils can cause build up or "gumming" but, Maxima uses "degummed" castor oils and even indicates it on the back of the bottle.
"Castor 927 is a high-performance, 2-cycle premix oil blended for use in racing engines. Synthetic esters, degummed castor oil and special additives eliminate ring sticking while preventing rust and corrosion"
With as litigious as our society is today you would think the company lawyers would catch something like this if it was just there as a sales gimmick.
Additionally I have used 927 for several years and have not noticed an increase in the amount of deposits.
Please, let me know.
I know it for a fact. I ran it in a dirt bike. The piston wasnt too bad but the pipe was terrible. many other people have had the same reults with bikes. BTW all castors for two cycle use are "degummed". And as far as the deposit comments by maxima. Its all relitive. Compared to a straight castor it probaly is cleaner. Modern synthetics are a far better choice though. Why not use Mobil mx2t at $3.50 a pint? Its less than half the price of 927 and it burns really clean. BTW read the section on maximas website called lube tips. Maxima basically says K2 is a better choice .
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I have heard the same about Castor oil leaving nasty deposits. But, on a saw, I don't see the big deal in having to yank the muffler off every now and then and clean up the deposits if I get that wonderful smell. But, is the Castor oil a good oil? Does it lubricate and do it's job well besides the deposit issue?
tony marks
Addicted to ArboristSite
i posted earlier on runnin 50-1.
it occurs to me that the chainsaw being
probably the hardest working 2 cycle
out there. 40 or 45 -1 might be better for long term. 50-1 works excellent for all my other 2 cycles . also works good for the saws but im talkin, mabe lastin longer.sure hate to keep two different mixes but ill give it a try.
ith blowers ,trimmers etc. i can gurantee the 50-1 will be less trouble. now i dont usually talk in absolutes . but i took a long time finding out what worked better with no problem . and i mean nil.
heck i got one little trimmer by poulan [craftsman 25 cc]that in its 3rd year of
everyday use. none o the other equipment ever gives any problem
even the saws. still i think ill try that 40-1. stihl mix for them. dont need to face buying the new 028,these guys were discussin.ill report on this after a while. no offense stihl tech.
it occurs to me that the chainsaw being
probably the hardest working 2 cycle
out there. 40 or 45 -1 might be better for long term. 50-1 works excellent for all my other 2 cycles . also works good for the saws but im talkin, mabe lastin longer.sure hate to keep two different mixes but ill give it a try.
ith blowers ,trimmers etc. i can gurantee the 50-1 will be less trouble. now i dont usually talk in absolutes . but i took a long time finding out what worked better with no problem . and i mean nil.
heck i got one little trimmer by poulan [craftsman 25 cc]that in its 3rd year of
everyday use. none o the other equipment ever gives any problem
even the saws. still i think ill try that 40-1. stihl mix for them. dont need to face buying the new 028,these guys were discussin.ill report on this after a while. no offense stihl tech.
Tony, Tell yuo what. Run down to youe nearest autozone and pick up a pint of Mobil MX2T. Run it 32:!, pint to four gallons. I garaunteee you will not have aoil related problem. This mix will burn much cleaner, foul less plugs, and smoke less than the factory dino mix oils from husky, echo and stihl.
tony marks
Addicted to ArboristSite
appreciate the tip. may give it a try. d-- hate to mess w something aint broke . but thats how i found the method i use now.. ill try that on thesaws . but i aint foolin with the other 2 cycle stuff.
ive tried that. my method just doesnt have a drawback.. i mean none. and i get away with using some homeowner stuff .
they just keep going with no problems
with 50-1 stihl.thats not a point of argument thats just a fact,for my stuff.
still with saws, might need a little more lube ,especially when u running hot and steady.we ll see. and ill post back ,if i find anything significant. thanks again bwalker.
ive tried that. my method just doesnt have a drawback.. i mean none. and i get away with using some homeowner stuff .
they just keep going with no problems
with 50-1 stihl.thats not a point of argument thats just a fact,for my stuff.
still with saws, might need a little more lube ,especially when u running hot and steady.we ll see. and ill post back ,if i find anything significant. thanks again bwalker.
eyolf
Addicted to ArboristSite
Here's an <a href="http://www.goa-northcoastoil.com/tips/2cycleol.html">interesting link </a> to a small specialty oil company's discussion on two-stroke oils and some of the differences between them. I've posted it here before, but perhaps it's OK to revisit some of these issues now and then, and it might provide Treeco a bit of additional info regarding his oil question farther back.
I am struck by the idea lately that maybe the oil question isn't all that big a deal. I use the ISO L-EGD oil now in all air-cooled products I own with confidence. I have a couple of bottles of Jonsered oil about 6 or 8 years oil that has no classification at all, but meets warranty requirements, and until about a year ago used oil from a 10-year-old pail of Bombardier snowmobile oil meant to be sold to high-use guys like racers and sno-mo clubs. I got it for $10 a long while back, and never even bothered to look if it had any rating at all.
I siezed one of my saws using ISO, not the old oil last spring, but to be fair, the saw did have lots of miles on it and I was using it hard on a hot day. Never had any problems before.
I guess my point is that reasonable care and maintenance of your equipment is probably worth more than endless worry about oil. I bet that I would have found a small air leak in the Jonsy crankcase if I had looked, and that's what caused my problem...that and a 10-year-old saw nearing the end of its lifespan.
NOt picking fights, just my $.o2
I am struck by the idea lately that maybe the oil question isn't all that big a deal. I use the ISO L-EGD oil now in all air-cooled products I own with confidence. I have a couple of bottles of Jonsered oil about 6 or 8 years oil that has no classification at all, but meets warranty requirements, and until about a year ago used oil from a 10-year-old pail of Bombardier snowmobile oil meant to be sold to high-use guys like racers and sno-mo clubs. I got it for $10 a long while back, and never even bothered to look if it had any rating at all.
I siezed one of my saws using ISO, not the old oil last spring, but to be fair, the saw did have lots of miles on it and I was using it hard on a hot day. Never had any problems before.
I guess my point is that reasonable care and maintenance of your equipment is probably worth more than endless worry about oil. I bet that I would have found a small air leak in the Jonsy crankcase if I had looked, and that's what caused my problem...that and a 10-year-old saw nearing the end of its lifespan.
NOt picking fights, just my $.o2
Eyeolf, I have seen the link you posted before. Its a pretty good article in the sense that it explains why you should not use boat (tcw3) oil in a saw. BTW oil is just like anything else. Some people want the best possible product and others will use whatever is at hand. I tend to be extremely picky when it comes to these sorts of things, but I have never seized a two cycle and or had one wear out in less than normal time. If a proven synthetic product(mx2t) is available and it is the same price or cheaper than a oem dino mix oil why not use it? If this same product is better from a performance and price standpoint its really a no brainer. BTW your old sled oil probaly would work fine if it was made before they went to tcw3 fluids in sleds. Skidoo has since went back to reccomending iso egd type fluids as have Polaris and Cat on models with exhaust valves.
eyolf
Addicted to ArboristSite
BWalker, Your point is well taken, and, of course, is cogent. Mine is that as long as the product one uses is adequate, that's probably good enough...I bet many chain saws, bikes, trimmers, snowmobiles, etc. are "blown" because of issues not directly related to the oil used, unless you take into account no oil at all.
Your experience sounds as if some of it may be related to high-perf. bike applications, where extra-duty products give enough extra margin of safety as to be very useful. I tip my hat...I played around with a lot of sno-mo engines, a few bike engines, and one Yamaha Kart; about the time I was able to get specific outputs up where we were competitive, reliability went out the window.
I've not only stuck pistons, I've broken them, melted the tops out, grenaded bottom ends, and even blown jugs off of crankcases. I doubt if I can attribute any of it to the wrong oil, but I can probably say we were trying too hard to get BMEP higher than engine components could handle.
Many of the older sno-mo engines were rehashed stationary power unit designs, not expected to hold together at 350% of their rated load.
Your experience sounds as if some of it may be related to high-perf. bike applications, where extra-duty products give enough extra margin of safety as to be very useful. I tip my hat...I played around with a lot of sno-mo engines, a few bike engines, and one Yamaha Kart; about the time I was able to get specific outputs up where we were competitive, reliability went out the window.
I've not only stuck pistons, I've broken them, melted the tops out, grenaded bottom ends, and even blown jugs off of crankcases. I doubt if I can attribute any of it to the wrong oil, but I can probably say we were trying too hard to get BMEP higher than engine components could handle.
Many of the older sno-mo engines were rehashed stationary power unit designs, not expected to hold together at 350% of their rated load.
Yep. Bikes and sleds. I have never toasted one, but I no old enough to have lived in the "good" old days when you worked on your slead all week to get it to make it through a day of weekend riding. My dad had a 79 srx 440 like that and a old GP Yamaha before that.
I always say theres nothing look gross over kill. Same reason Gypo uses a 088 and ever one lusts after big saws that in reality they will never need.
