I was talking about Centaur's saw.
Did you happen to read my post?
Did you happen to read my post?
562xp dead after 1hr - what should I expect?
- Thread starter StVenant
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Haven’t looked yet. Your thoughts make sense to me, but I don’t have a lot of depth of experience on these failures. (Most of my stuff works without such problems!) I’ll take some pics when I get around to taking the cylinder apart.
RED-85-Z51
Addicted to ArboristSite
Kinda what i figured. Most anytime there is scoring, manufacturers have an out. Same as a 4 stroke that throws a rod and is full of fresh oil...
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Sounds good, there are a lot of smart people here who could tell a LOT from some good pictures. There are a number of things that could cause a lean burndown, which would have not been your fault at all.
I can write off buying a husky. Won’t run on standard fuel?
The pure gas app will show the nearest source of non-ethanol fuel. In N.C. I’m fortunate to have 93 octane close by. In MD it was quite a hike
OP, I’m hoping you don’t give in and don’t buy another husky. At least have the fuel analyzed. Google fuel analysis service and you will have 6+ services with quick turnaround. Send a sample from your can and one from the saw. I know it easy for me to spend your money, but it’s worth knowing if the shop is honest. Also request the denial of warranty reason in writing.
For a few dollars it would be worth it to know if it was your error.
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The pure gas app will show the nearest source of non-ethanol fuel. In N.C. I’m fortunate to have 93 octane close by. In MD it was quite a hike
OP, I’m hoping you don’t give in and don’t buy another husky. At least have the fuel analyzed. Google fuel analysis service and you will have 6+ services with quick turnaround. Send a sample from your can and one from the saw. I know it easy for me to spend your money, but it’s worth knowing if the shop is honest. Also request the denial of warranty reason in writing.
For a few dollars it would be worth it to know if it was your error.
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Fatherwheels
Addicted to ArboristSite
I bought a saw new, took muffler off to mod it, there was scores on the cylinder wall,
way too intense for a cylinder finish, luckily they were too close to the top of the cylinder to
damage the ring, if they were further down I know there would have been problems,
sometimes things slip through the net, Now I poke my camera in before I remove
a muffler, really annoys me having to check a new engine for damage before I feel
confident to work it, it’s crazy how dealers can blame just about anything on the users,
I used to work in a hire shop, and watched it close as the manager wouldn’t charge
people who straight gassed new out of the box two stroke equipment, while poor
people were charged for damage they didn’t do, some world we live in.
So I'll ask a dumb question. When you bought the saw did the dealer do the first run carb learn, or did they tell you how to do it? When I bought mine they told me to fire it up, let it warm up a bit and bury it in the biggest hardest log I have for 5 minutes, then let it idle for a minute then shut it down. Supposedly this is how the carb sets its base tune for fuel.
And I'll add to the duel goes bad in a month even with stabilizers, yes I know about this, however I've sat through years of small engine (Kohler, briggs, Honda, kawasaki, and Subaru) update classes and they all preach fuel stabilizers. We even had test kits to test for percent of ethonal and water in the fuel. Most of them would endorse either their own brand or stabil. Admittedly I've been out of that scene for a few years, but the fuel hasn't changed and the people I still do work for dont have many fuel issues since I've directed them to use stabil with every tank. Can old fuel be bad, yes been there seen the black goo in the bottom of gas and diesel tanks, and what it takes to get rid of it. Fuel just doesnt die in a month, especially if stored properly. Ethonal isnt good stuff. But paying $5.00 a gallon for straight gas is a waste if your using it up within a month or so any way. Just my 2 cents.
And I'll add to the duel goes bad in a month even with stabilizers, yes I know about this, however I've sat through years of small engine (Kohler, briggs, Honda, kawasaki, and Subaru) update classes and they all preach fuel stabilizers. We even had test kits to test for percent of ethonal and water in the fuel. Most of them would endorse either their own brand or stabil. Admittedly I've been out of that scene for a few years, but the fuel hasn't changed and the people I still do work for dont have many fuel issues since I've directed them to use stabil with every tank. Can old fuel be bad, yes been there seen the black goo in the bottom of gas and diesel tanks, and what it takes to get rid of it. Fuel just doesnt die in a month, especially if stored properly. Ethonal isnt good stuff. But paying $5.00 a gallon for straight gas is a waste if your using it up within a month or so any way. Just my 2 cents.
Justsaws
Addicted to ArboristSite
Not a surprising dealer response. “Looks light” is bull, when they are not very exacting on how much oil is actually in the bottles they sell. Just buy a bigger bar for the saw that works. No reason to think the more expensive saw is going to last any longer. If a person needs a special gas can the saw is garbage.
If theres a Caterpillar dealer near you, most of them can test the fuel for you. Some have labs in house, some send the test kits out. It will tell you about anything you want to know about the fuel. Used them a lot in the past. Also a place called ana labs that does the same sort of testing, john deere dealers as well.
HEY! Did you happen to read my post?
now you have some "likes" on your "Post of Not Paying Attention". While you accuse me of not paying attention. .
The saw only has an hour of time on it, even with a bad air leak, AT saws are known to compensate for air leaks, allowing for longer run time with an air leak than a regular carb ssw. I do agree the dealer has no idea how much oil is in the fuel, unless maybe it was actually clear. The fuel was sitting in a barn for at least a month, in the summer and at least in partial sunlight. The fuel was bad IMHO.
I would consider this as a lesson learned.
Only the 576 needed to be run like that when new, as it was the first generation AT and very slow to adjust itself. The 562, 555 and the 550,545 were second generation AT, which I suppose makes the 572 third generation, it's light years ahead of the previous generations. They do not require being ran like that.
Good luck with the next saw, you will love the 572 if that's what you go with. Just be more careful with the fuel and how you store it. And I always preach about keeping your chain properly set up, a bad chain will kill a saw just as fast as bad fuel will.
I'd go ahead and pull the muffler off your other saw and have a look, sometimes an engine will run a long time even though some damage has been done.[emoji111]
Hmm funny they told me to do just that when I got mine. Just wondering if it was still a thing, guess not. Thanks.
Fatherwheels
Addicted to ArboristSite
Lots of good advise here, as mentioned, fuel is critical, it needs to be mixed correctly, and stored
correctly for short periods to ensure it doesn’t separate, acquire moisture or let the magic out.
Here is nice video on saws in the Husqvarna 572 category, and some spoilers too, if your going
the Mtronic Autotune route, seems the 572 is built like a tank, some talk of a 80 to 90 cc top end
coming on that same chassis.
Regardless of what you choose to get, keep safe.
correctly for short periods to ensure it doesn’t separate, acquire moisture or let the magic out.
Here is nice video on saws in the Husqvarna 572 category, and some spoilers too, if your going
the Mtronic Autotune route, seems the 572 is built like a tank, some talk of a 80 to 90 cc top end
coming on that same chassis.
Regardless of what you choose to get, keep safe.
ChoppyChoppy
Tree Freak
While 100LL may store for a while, is it worth breathing lead?
From my understanding, even though it's low lead, it still has around 2x the lead levels as the old leaded mogas.
We don't have gasahol here, so I've not had to deal with it.
That being said, I can't imagine gas to go bad in just a couple months to where it'd seize a 2 stroke?!
From my understanding, even though it's low lead, it still has around 2x the lead levels as the old leaded mogas.
We don't have gasahol here, so I've not had to deal with it.
That being said, I can't imagine gas to go bad in just a couple months to where it'd seize a 2 stroke?!
I use 90 non ethonal for my small engines. I keep mix stored in metal cans for 6-8 months, shake it up every time I use some. No problems yet. Use it in one autotune and a couple regular carb saws, blowers etc. Before the non eth was available, I had trouble with fuel gumming up the carbs after a couple months. The engines wouldn't even start with bad gas.
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Agreed on the age of the gas. I appreciate and plan to take to heart all the advice on improving my fueling. But if gas spending less than a month in a plastic gas can in a barn where the only exposure to direct sunlight would have been through an open window was enough to kill a brand new chainsaw, then most people would be blowing up their equipment left & right - and my other equipment fueled from that same can should be going up in a mushroom cloud. Heck, I put staybil in every can - just in case I don’t use it up fast enough - but it seems unreasonable that it should even be necessary for a month or less.
RED-85-Z51
Addicted to ArboristSite
Im seeing fuel turn in 4 to 6 weeks also...it doesn't last like years ago
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BradSt
ArboristSite Operative
A few good pics of the piston should shed more light on what happened. You can usually tell a lean seizure from a lack of oil seizure. Also, a look down in the crankcase will be telling. If it is as dry as a bone, there wasn't enough oil. What does the piston crown look like? Is there a visible wash pattern? Any "sandblasting" damage around the edge of the crown? I understand that if the saw stays with the dealer, you may never be able to get any pics.
