562xp Hot start?

Rugged made
Wesspur
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Ran the 562 again today same deal. Also after making a cut the saw had some mild run on. That means the saw was pretty much overheating, not enough fuel to keep the temperature down. This is seeming more and more like multiple things going on, not just one glaring failure.

Really I'm not overly worried about the saw I'll see what my dealer says this week, however I really don't think this is something a dealer can fix, maybe try a new carb just because. Other than that it's becoming clear "at least to me" that this model may in fact be a failed design concept. I mean how long have these saws been on the market now? Again these are just my thoughts, I know many out there love these saw, and honestly I can see why, when running they're one of the best stock saws I've ever ran.
 
I don't think I read the entire thread, but maybe I've participated just don't remember. I've seen el48 saws that have a characteristic that sounds almost like over run but really isn't a lean condition. Just tap the throttle and it picks up rpm's hangs a second then drops right off and idles nice and smooth. Almost like the combination of carb and ignition does that little "run" as the saws I've seen like that were not leaking or running lean and for that matter the plug comes out dark chocolate brown. Annoying but harmless on the saws I've seen like that. Mine does it a little. Second the "new" saw I just tweaked with a popup has a different piston and cover that prior 562's. Maybe a few other bits...tweaked it as I do and it doesn't have that little hitch... so something has changed between the 2014/2015 saws and the 2016 I just got. Maybe its the firmware. Don't know. I've seen 4 562's with el48's with that little "run" when you tap that throttle .. and one that doesn't. None of the el46's I have seen do that. I have no idea why they do that. Just an observation.
 
I worked on a 562 last week for a friend. It's a 2014 model with a EL48 carb.
I pulled the carb out and cleaned it up but everything looked good inside. Diaphragms, screen etc. all looked good. Piston looked good through the exhaust port.
Cold, it would start up and idle and I made 5 cuts through a good sized log and it died as it came back to idle. It ran great at full throttle but it just died whenever it got back to idle.
I then noticed that the bar was too hot to touch (it was oiling fine) and the cylinder seemed very hot too.
He had to get the saw back to his uncle so thats as far as I got. They are loggers and have really liked this saw before this problem Needless to say, I ,too, am interested in suggestions/solutions to this problem.
 
I have no practical experience with this model that would qualify me to reply to this thread, but going to anyway. :)

Is there any possibility that the 562s that are exhibiting this hot start vapor lock might also have a (slight) air/ vacuum leak? Past discussions have shown that some examples of this model have this issue. Would that problem contribute to a hard hot start situation?
 
dl5205 said:
I have no practical experience with this model that would qualify me to reply to this thread, but going to anyway. :)

Is there any possibility that the 562s that are exhibiting this hot start vapor lock might also have a (slight) air/ vacuum leak? Past discussions have shown that some examples of this model have this issue. Would that problem contribute to a hard hot start situation?
Click to expand...
You'd normally have other symptoms.

I'm going to get an thermometer and try to compare a few different saws. I'll take readings from the cylinder, carb and the case.

The run on after making a cut wasn't drastic and only lasted a second or two.

I may open up the muffler, that will help let the engine breathe and should reduce the engine temps. No this shouldn't be necessary, but what can you do.

Thanks for all the feedback everyone!! Any and all Input is welcome and appreciated.
 
weimedog said:
I don't think I read the entire thread, but maybe I've participated just don't remember. I've seen el48 saws that have a characteristic that sounds almost like over run but really isn't a lean condition. Just tap the throttle and it picks up rpm's hangs a second then drops right off and idles nice and smooth. Almost like the combination of carb and ignition does that little "run" as the saws I've seen like that were not leaking or running lean and for that matter the plug comes out dark chocolate brown. Annoying but harmless on the saws I've seen like that. Mine does it a little. Second the "new" saw I just tweaked with a popup has a different piston and cover that prior 562's. Maybe a few other bits...tweaked it as I do and it doesn't have that little hitch... so something has changed between the 2014/2015 saws and the 2016 I just got. Maybe its the firmware. Don't know. I've seen 4 562's with el48's with that little "run" when you tap that throttle .. and one that doesn't. None of the el46's I have seen do that. I have no idea why they do that. Just an observation.
Click to expand...
Thanks for the input. You may very well be correct.
 
I wonder if there is a way/precedure to reset the autotune module? Maybe your dealer could contact a service tech on your behalf to see if this is possible?
 
009L said:
I wonder if there is a way/precedure to reset the autotune module? Maybe your dealer could contact a service tech on your behalf to see if this is possible?
Click to expand...
Not positive, but I believe that has to be done with software. I also highly doubt that's the problem, the carb wasn't getting any fuel, the primer wouldn't even work.

Sent from my HTC One_M8 using Tapatalk
 
My local place was having problems with the autotune saws running hot and having symptoms like this. I looked at one and it came from the distributor with those stoopid arctic air filters on it, just a mesh screen. I go WTF, this is not canuckistan. Well, they had to discuss things with husky intergalactic first, they are a completely by the book shop. I suggested they install a flock filter instead of the arctic filter, they started doing that after some more heat issues autotunes came back in, and now much less issues.
 
13363-1466967960-5fe0555b053b4daf6adfbb01ff46af54.jpg


13364-1466967976-fc726a8aedffef2fb3088981a1f30bc5.jpg
 
This saw came with the flock filter. My 550 came with the useless mesh filter which I replaced with a flock filter. Why would husky ship saws with only the mesh filter is beyond me, they should at least include both filters. With that said, when clean the mesh filter should flow better and help cooling.
 
Andyshine77 said:
This saw came with the flock filter. My 550 came with the useless mesh filter which I replaced with a flock filter. Why would husky ship saws with only the mesh filter is beyond me, they should at least include both filters. With that said, when clean the mesh filter should flow better and help cooling.
Click to expand...

You prolly know how I drop several degrees with mine, but not going to push that concept. I can tell you on the old 2012 version that did have hot start issues and a light seizure when I first got it.....it has none of those issues now..:) Its a three pull start when cold and one easy pull when hot... every time. I think the compression "bump" helped that too.
 
Andyshine77 said:
The saw I have does in fact have that cover.
Click to expand...
I'm betting your seeing that el48 thing I've been seeing for the last few months.. Just for chits and grins...get it started and just "bump" the throttle and see if it does a little run then settle right down. Almost a "square" curve.. jumps a few rpms for a couple of seconds, then jumps right back. . That wouldn't be an air leak thing...
 
I have been asking around and two suggestions I don't think have been mentioned yet.
One is to use the choke to kill the machine.
The other is to hold the throttle wide open when you hit the kill switch.
Maybe worth a try ? Maybe someone can give some better feed back on these?
 
CoreyB said:
I have been asking around and two suggestions I don't think have been mentioned yet.
One is to use the choke to kill the machine.
The other is to hold the throttle wide open when you hit the kill switch.
Maybe worth a try ? Maybe someone can give some better feed back on these?
Click to expand...
I know the choke method has been tried by @porsche965 . It didn't work.
 

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