562xp Hot start?

Wesspur
Rugged made
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MountainHigh said:
Re 2260 - other than the small mount bar, what is the difference between it and 562xp that would make it not also have Hot Start issues?

Does it not have the same rev-boost? or the same layout adjacent to the carb? or more breathing room in the case? or different carb? or less restrictive muffler .... or better shielded fuel lines ... ..... or ..... some Jonsred magic they have kept secret from Husky ? :rolleyes:

Thoughts?
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Other than the bar mount, everything else is the same between the 2260 and the 562. It's good that your 2260 hasn't exhibited the hot start deal, but that should not lead to the premise that "the 2260", as in all of them, are free from the problem. And not every 562 has this problem either.

As is so often the case, the characteristics of one saw should never be ascribed to all of them. IE; the fact that your saw doesn't have the problem should not be interpreted to mean that ALL 2260's will be free of it. That type of rationalizing leads to some of these theories about the wide mount case or crank stuffers contributing to problem. :) One wrong conclusion only leads to another.

I've seen this on every one of these saws at some point. That's why the 555 is also getting a new top cover! Small mount, large mount, as well as the 50cc saws. That's why those two 2253's are in here. The perception is that it's worse on the 562's because there are so many more 562's out there that we see it more often with them than with the other models. IMO, with the volume of saws that I see, the 550/2253 was worst than the 562. But with the newest AT-12 carb this has apparently been much improved.

Another factor that hasn't been mentioned is work habits. Some guys leave their saws idling for a minute between whatever and don't experience the problem, but the saw may still have it waiting for just the right time to piss him off. Is this frustrating to deal with? Of course it is. I tell my guys I can make it better, but I can't promise that it will never happen. In most cases, it has gone away enough that it won't rear it's head. But a hot enough day, the right interval between starts, and you never know.
 
spike60 said:
Other than the bar mount, everything else is the same between the 2260 and the 562. It's good that your 2260 hasn't exhibited the hot start deal, but that should not lead to the premise that "the 2260", as in all of them, are free from the problem. And not every 562 has this problem either.

Another factor that hasn't been mentioned is work habits. Some guys leave their saws idling for a minute between whatever and don't experience the problem, but the saw may still have it waiting for just the right time to piss him off. Is this frustrating to deal with? Of course it is. I tell my guys I can make it better, but I can't promise that it will never happen. In most cases, it has gone away enough that it won't rear it's head. But a hot enough day, the right interval between starts, and you never know.
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I find it odd that some 562's consistently produce this hot start issue, while others don't. I can see this occurring if it is due to factors in the environment or user habits, but if it's the minuscule build variations between 562 saws, the question begs, what are the *sensitive hardware anomalies/tiny differences between 562 saws, that could determine some have issues and others don't?
 
Andyshine77 said:
With everything on the table, the fact is these saw are still giving people fits, for wherever reason. To me this is not really not acceptable IMHO. We shouldn't have to be modifying new equipment!! I've always been of the mind set, if something needs to be modified when still new, the manufacturer simply didn't do it's job.
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To me there's no escaping this conclusion. If I had bought a new saw for that kind money, or even much less, and had to do anything more than put good mix and bar oil into it and keep the chain sharp then the product is a failure. I enjoy modding saws, but one should never need to in order to use it for its intended purpose.
 
Chris-PA said:
To me there's no escaping this conclusion. If I had bought a new saw for that kind money, or even much less, and had to do anything more than put good mix and bar oil into it and keep the chain sharp then the product is a failure. I enjoy modding saws, but one should never need to in order to use it for its intended purpose.
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And I'm not someone that works with a saw for a living. I can only imagine how frustrating something like this would be on a job site. That's a problem Husqvarna may be facing. It's very hard to gain professional clientele, but very easy to loose it.

Anyway that's about all I have to say on the matter. I thank everyone for their input!!

Andre.
 
Andyshine77 said:
Anyway that's about all I have to say on the matter. I thank everyone for their input!!

Andre.
Click to expand...

Well, I'd like it if you could say a little more on the matter. :)

Let me know what if any improvement you notice with the cuts in the top cover. Better? A little? A lot? What temp are you cutting in and if the problem remains, at what interval does the problem come and go. And is it a complete no start, or does it need 5-6 pulls. That is actually the more common complaint that I see; having to pull a half dozen times, not a complete no start.

Here or PM; doesn't matter. I'll pass your input on to those that want to know.
 
I believe his saw came from the factory with the newer cover with the cutout already in it, or are you thinking he should somehow add more cutouts ?

spike60 said:
Well, I'd like it if you could say a little more on the matter. :)

Let me know what if any improvement you notice with the cuts in the top cover. Better? A little? A lot? What temp are you cutting in and if the problem remains, at what interval does the problem come and go. And is it a complete no start, or does it need 5-6 pulls. That is actually the more common complaint that I see; having to pull a half dozen times, not a complete no start.

Here or PM; doesn't matter. I'll pass your input on to those that want to know.
Click to expand...
 
Cycledude said:
I believe his saw came from the factory with the newer cover with the cutout already in it, or are you thinking he should somehow add more cutouts ?
Click to expand...

No, I wasn't aware of that. Forgot when he bought it, so thanks for pointing that out! So no, I'm not suggesting that he do any additional cutting if he has the new top already.

If that's the case, then it's like I said earlier about the temp going up around 90 canceling out some of the improvement fro the cut outs.
 
Bob the saw in question has the new top cover. The cover I modified was for my older 550.

Anyway when temps are in the 80's the 562 will restart with say 10 pulls max, and will run a bit lean for a few seconds than pickup and go like mad. When the temp hits 90° the saw will not restart no matter what you do. I bought this saw from you in April.

I really appreciate your response, and I never once questioned your willingness to assist if something could be done to resolve the hot start issue with the saw.

Thanks again.

Andre.
 
Anyway that's about all I have to say on the matter. I thank everyone for their input!!

Andre.[/QUOTE]

Couldn't agree more with Spike. Andre you started this conversation with a lot of good strong information and I have seen a good response from others with good concern and information about this issue. You can't just walk away now.
 
SO both Bobe8888 and Andyshine77 have 2016 new version saws that won't restart. Both have you tube video's. Both observe the primer bulb is both empty and won't pull fuel?? Wonder what keeps the primer bulb from pulling fuel? You would think the primer "vacuum" would pull fuel though independent of the carburetor. And also using the primer to flush the system might also take heat away....but if it won't even pull fuel; something we are missing here. I know spike was saying its just hot, but why does a "hot" carb keep the primer bulb from pulling fuel? If the saw idles for a minute or so after a hard pull then shut it off does that "cool" down enough? I'm assuming the reason its being shut off is to refuel, was it low on fuel when it was shut down? Any chance something flexes and creates and air leak in that system? Maybe fuel line and filter some how get pulled away from the fuel?
 
spike60 said:
No, I wasn't aware of that. Forgot when he bought it, so thanks for pointing that out! So no, I'm not suggesting that he do any additional cutting if he has the new top already.

If that's the case, then it's like I said earlier about the temp going up around 90 canceling out some of the improvement fro the cut outs.
Click to expand...

When I was a kid I worked for a company in a long gone place that once was Lake Allendale New York, off Oregon Road called "Damifino" construction. I pulled a rake on asphalt mostly. Or changed tires on their ancient Mack Dump trucks. I asked who was named Damifino?? No answer...a few more days and curious minds had to know so I asked again...why does the company have that name?? The old fellow looked at me like I was stupid and said... Damn If I know!
 
weimedog said:
SO both Bobe8888 and Andyshine77 have 2016 new version saws that won't restart. Both have you tube video's. Both observe the primer bulb is both empty and won't pull fuel?? Wonder what keeps the primer bulb from pulling fuel? You would think the primer "vacuum" would pull fuel though independent of the carburetor. And also using the primer to flush the system might also take heat away....but if it won't even pull fuel; something we are missing here. I know spike was saying its just hot, but why does a "hot" carb keep the primer bulb from pulling fuel? If the saw idles for a minute or so after a hard pull then shut it off does that "cool" down enough? I'm assuming the reason its being shut off is to refuel, was it low on fuel when it was shut down? Any chance something flexes and creates and air leak in that system? Maybe fuel line and filter some how get pulled away from the fuel?
Click to expand...
I am babe8888 lol.
 
weimedog said:
SO both Bobe8888 and Andyshine77 have 2016 new version saws that won't restart. Both have you tube video's. Both observe the primer bulb is both empty and won't pull fuel?? Wonder what keeps the primer bulb from pulling fuel? You would think the primer "vacuum" would pull fuel though independent of the carburetor. And also using the primer to flush the system might also take heat away....but if it won't even pull fuel; something we are missing here. I know spike was saying its just hot, but why does a "hot" carb keep the primer bulb from pulling fuel? If the saw idles for a minute or so after a hard pull then shut it off does that "cool" down enough? I'm assuming the reason its being shut off is to refuel, was it low on fuel when it was shut down? Any chance something flexes and creates and air leak in that system? Maybe fuel line and filter some how get pulled away from the fuel?
Click to expand...

I believe the primer can't pump fuel, because the fuel in the carb or fuel in the lines has turned to a gas, at this point I believe the primer will no longer function. I shut the saw off to move some logs around, the tank sight prevents you from running out of fuel as long as you check on it every few minutes. Also this has happened a few times now, even with pretty much a full tank.
 
I have 3 other saws besides the 562, one is a echo 400 and with that saw I need to be careful about priming it when the fuel tank it plumb full because it will pop the fuel hose right off the primer, that has only happened when the tank was completely full, I've pumped the bulb with the fuel cap removed and can see the fuel in the tank bubbling so I think if it's completely full there is no space for the air bubbles that's why it blows the hose off, maybe there's something like that going on sometimes with the 562.
 

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