7 or 8 tooth sprocket

[bwalker]

On a husky 372 a 8 pin works fine with a 20" bar, 72 DL chain combo.

 

[460Ted]

How about an 8 tooth on a 460 mag with 20" bar? Would this be better than the 7 tooth, or should I leave it alone?

Ted

 

[Simonizer]

How about an 8 tooth on a 460 mag with 20" bar? Would this be better than the 7 tooth, or should I leave it alone?

Ted

Your 77cc saw, (of excellent quality I might add), will easily pull this chain and bar set-up with an 8 tooth. I recommend it. Cheers.

 

[Lakeside53]

How about an 8 tooth on a 460 mag with 20" bar? Would this be better than the 7 tooth, or should I leave it alone?

Ted

If it cuts fine for you, leave it alone. If you don't know, then just spend $5 (or less) and try it...

I'd just put on a full skip and forget about it, but that's just my 2c from the evergreen state.

 

[460Ted]

Aw, now I have to go to the store tomorrow and pick up an 8 tooth, damn.

 

[TRUSSMAN]

I have an 8 tooth on my 046, 20" bar it pulls it no problem.
Jeff

 

[skwerl]

I would frigging hope so. If I had a $700 chainsaw and it wasn't able to pull a measly 20" bar with an 8 pin and full comp chain, I'd take it back to the dealer and demand a refund. The only people running full skip on a bar that short are people who can't file a chain in the field.

 

[460Ted]

Yeah, I know. Lakeside53 must of mis-read the 20" part.

Ted

 

[bwalker]

I'd just put on a full skip and forget about it, but that's just my 2c from the evergreen state.

I would not unless your goal is to cut slower and vibrate more.

 

[Mr.]

I would not unless your goal is to cut slower and vibrate more.

You finally guessed my goals. HA HA

Fred

 

[Mike mandry]

OK, another dumb question for you guys.

I have a SXL 925 Homelite (82 cc) in very good condition.

Do you think it will do Ok with an 8t & 20 bar ??

Been thinking of it for a while.

 

[Simonizer]

OK, another dumb question for you guys.

I have a SXL 925 Homelite (82 cc) in very good condition.

Do you think it will do Ok with an 8t & 20 bar ??

Been thinking of it for a while.

You could run a 28" no problem. 20" is nothing for that saw.

 

[Mike mandry]

Actually, I have a 24"/7t on my other 925 & it does great.

I just put the 20" on this other one because I dont always need that much bar, but I love the power of that (those ) saws.

I've never fooled around with different sprockets. Always used the standard 7t

Simon, where at in Canada are you ??

I do a lot of biz in canada (Tembec)

If Im lucky, I might make it up there one day.

 

[Simonizer]

Actually, I have a 24"/7t on my other 925 & it does great.

I just put the 20" on this other one because I dont always need that much bar, but I love the power of that (those ) saws.

I've never fooled around with different sprockets. Always used the standard 7t

Simon, where at in Canada are you ??

I do a lot of biz in canada (Tembec)

If Im lucky, I might make it up there one day.

Almost as far West as you can go. Vancouver Island BC.

 

[Marco]

If you have the power to increase chain speed why wouldn't you be better off to stay with the smaller sprocket and take more off the rakers? Every time a tooth passes over a given distance in a cut it dulls a little bit. So wouldn't you be better off to keep the chain speed down and pull a bigger chip? A tooth dulls weather you pull a big chip or little one.

 

[460Ted]

If I'm in clean wood, my chains stay sharp for a long time. I also know that the higher HP saws run bigger sprockets with faster cutting times. You can do only so much with just the chain.

 

[skwerl]

If you have the power to increase chain speed why wouldn't you be better off to stay with the smaller sprocket and take more off the rakers? Every time a tooth passes over a given distance in a cut it dulls a little bit. So wouldn't you be better off to keep the chain speed down and pull a bigger chip? A tooth dulls weather you pull a big chip or little one.

Marco, a faster chain speed is much smoother in the cut and actually is less likely to grab and kick back. Chip removal is as big of a task as cutting so the faster chain speed results in significantly faster cuts.

 

[bwalker]

You can load the saw more by taking the rakers down, but you increase the risk of kick back and it cuts rougher.

 

[skwerl]

If you have the power to increase chain speed why wouldn't you be better off to stay with the smaller sprocket and take more off the rakers? Every time a tooth passes over a given distance in a cut it dulls a little bit. So wouldn't you be better off to keep the chain speed down and pull a bigger chip? A tooth dulls weather you pull a big chip or little one.

Marco, a faster chain speed is much smoother in the cut and actually is less likely to grab and kick back. Chip removal is as big of a task as cutting so the faster chain speed results in significantly faster cuts.


ooops, the site locked up on me and I didn't see Ben's post. I'm a day late and a dollar short...

 

[Marco]

I guess at some point the chain would load up with my idea, may stretch more too. Myself, when I start to have that much power on hand I like to get .404 chain. It seems to go longer between sharpenings, slower from the start though I hear. Just using what I have learned from working with a circular sawmill and what a very experienced machinist told me, take a big chip. If you are making a big chip and still have power left over I guess it makes sense to speed things up, that or add teeth.