Thanks freakingstang for the info and the extra pictures.
I think the 4-post is better than the 2-post they have now.
More important for strength than the number of posts is the fact that the mill bolts to the bar bolts.
This requires 2 posts at the inboard end but one post is sufficient at the outboard end.
This is what I have on the BIL mill where instead of a clamp across the bar, a one sided clamp, clamps onto a bolt through the middle of the nose sprocket.
The Al clamping pads have since been replaced by steel with recessed slots for the bolt to sit in.
The slot is needed so the chain can be tightened.
I had been thinking along the lines of 4 acme thread corner posts like my Bel-Saw thickness planer had 40 years ago.
But the whole thing would probably have weighed 200lbs.[/QUOTE]
I made a 4 poster made from steel (except for the mill rails which are ally) and that mill with a fueled up 880 in it weights 80 lns
It uses all thread rod as the adjusters. 2 at the inboard and 1 at the outboard.
Acme would last longer. I had to replace one of the all threads adjusters on the BIL mill after using it to mill over 100 logs
Here is the mostly steel 4 poster with the 076 aboard.
The posts are C-section with the all thread rods running down the middle of the inboard posts.
This mill uses a 44" bard nose bar with a roller nose bar added to the end of the hard nose.
This allows for the chain to be adjusted at the outboard end of the mill.
Brass and Al are used on some parts around the nose area in case the chain comes off.
Here's that mill with the 880 on it you can see the underneath of the chain adjustment at the nose end.
How long are the 'new' bar nuts?
On 2 of my mills that bolt to the bar bolts I made longer bar bolts.
Here is the longer ones compared the the original.