Lombard Super AL-42

[jbowlin723]

Hello everyone! I am new to this site. I came across a Lombard Super AL-42 that I want to get running. I have been working on 2 cycle engines for about 2 years and love it. I usually buy stuff cheap, fix it up then resell it. Some stuff I keep because I think it's cool.
I bought an old Dayton saw for $5.00 to fix up and they threw in the Lombard for free.
It has almost no paint left - it has enough that I know it was reddish orange with a cream color on some parts. I degreased it because it was covered in dirt and grime. The oil tank and gas tank are dry. It has good compression and it all seem complete. Old spark plug on it - a champion Tj-8j and I spark tested it and there is no spark. I think this one has points in it which leads me to my first issue. I can't get the flywheel off. I need a good puller. I bought a knockoff stihl one and almost pulled the threads out of the flywheel. Luckily that didn't happen. So I need a good puller to buy. It's really on there - I tried the pry and whack the nut method too.
Other things: It's missing the on/off metal piece at the switch and the nut is gone too. The switch was just flopping around but it's hooked up. I am missing a pulley cover screw too. One had the head broken off but I will look into that at some point. Right now - I want to get it running then figure out how to make it look nice again. I already soaked the bar and chain in vinegar because it was solid rust. That came out awesome and I can read Oregon right on it now with a sharp chain! I would appreciate any guidance on what to do next.

 

[pioneerguy600]

https://www.acresinternet.com/cscc....c23743ed8cc0841988256c5a000f3bc6?OpenDocument They looked almost like a Homelite XL12

 

[Rocker59]

There is a Lombard Chainsaw thread in the Chainsaw forum that might be helpful (especially for the oiler duckbill).

 

[Chris Ross]

Consider investing in a quality flywheel puller specifically designed for small engines, as this can prevent damage and ensure a proper fit.


For the ignition issue, check the points for corrosion or wear; cleaning or replacing them might restore spark.


Once you get it running, you can use high-temperature paint for a durable finish, which will also help maintain its appearance over time. Good luck with your restoration!

 

[jbowlin723]

Hello everyone - back again. I FINALLY got the flywheel off. Thanks Leon from Leon's chainsaw and repair. Now on to the points. I used a little fine sandpaper in between the contacts. I also discovered the plug wire has dry rotted and there is a spot missing where the wire is exposed. I will patch that. I am getting spark now but not frequently. It will spark early and once and then nothing. I am going to patch the wire and make sure the gap is .015 and try again.

 

[jbowlin723]

Another thing - there was this sticky, white tape on the wire near where the exhaust is. Is that something someone added or factory? I took it off thinking it was a previous repair but nothing was damaged underneath. Wondering if that is to protect from heat?

 

[pioneerguy600]

Many horizontal engine saws had a sheath of heat resistant woven material that covered the sparkplug wire to prevent the wire from contacting the cylinder fins. I have not seen sticky tape of any kind from the factory so most likely a previous owner/repair guy added the tape as an insulator to prevent the wire from contacting the hot cylinder fins.If you intend to run the saw any amount it would be prudent to make or find a sheath to protect the wire.

 

[jbowlin723]

Many horizontal engine saws had a sheath of heat resistant woven material that covered the sparkplug wire to prevent the wire from contacting the cylinder fins. I have not seen sticky tape of any kind from the factory so most likely a previous owner/repair guy added the tape as an insulator to prevent the wire from contacting the hot cylinder fins.If you intend to run the saw any amount it would be prudent to make or find a sheath to protect the wire.

Thanks - it does have the woven sheath on the wire where the fins are. The tape was beyond that closer to the exhaust. I will just rewrap in electrical tape and keep an eye on it. I will try to check the gap tonight and then check for spark again. It has the older spark plug on it - a tj8j if I recall.

 

[pioneerguy600]

The condenser has to store the electrical charge until it needs to be releasd to the sparkplug, they dry out with age and often needs to be replaced after they age out. There is a test for them charging with a multimeter a bit of Google searching would bring up the method and how to test.

 

[jbowlin723]

Update: I tested the coil and it seems to check out. The condenser has a rubber top on it and I tested it using the wire on the side. It didn't really show me anything. I then cleaned all connections and took things off and put them back on. I wrapped the break in the cable and then accidently pulled the boot off. It was really rotten at the end. I shortened it a tad and twisted it back on. I also had to create a new kill switch wire with new connectors as the old ones were looking broken. After all that - I have spark during testing. I am confused on something though. If I completely remove the kill switch and wire - I get no spark - is that normal? And I ONLY get spark if the kill switch is in one position and the switch touches the frame in a good spot. It's difficult - I have to move it around and then it will work. I am hoping that's normal. It will be mounted to the cover and will be grounded I suppose and in theory should still work but I wanted to be sure before I put it back together. I thought that by removing the kill switch - it would spark all the time but maybe I am wrong. Thanks.

 

[pioneerguy600]

Not normal, the coil would generate spark full time, the kill switch just routes the electrical/spark to ground thus shutting down the engine. Did you remove the coil and clean up under it plus really clean the mounting bosses? Replace the coil and set the gap between the coil laminates and the flywheel to .010 -.012 , a business card works well for spacing the air gap between the two. The kill switch does need to be grounded to the saws frame where ever it is mounted.

 

[jbowlin723]

Thanks for your response. The gap between the coil ends and the flywheel seems hard set because everything is mounted together. It's a long metal piece with the points, the condensor, coil and wires all in one thing. I did check the gap and it's a business card width (checked before and after). Points gap is .015. Would pictures help - I can try uploading those.

 

[jbowlin723]

Looks like this. Got this from a website but it's the same one. It's also missing the mounting bolt all the way to the left so someone has been in there at some point. The kill wire plugs into the area on the left - underneath where the red wire is.

 

[pioneerguy600]

Looks like this. Got this from a website but it's the same one. It's also missing the mounting bolt all the way to the left so someone has been in there at some point. The kill wire plugs into the area on the left - underneath where the red wire is.
View attachment 1220765

The entire plate shifts on that type of setup, the slotted holes in the frame allow for movement of the coil in or out from the flywheel. The points are set by loosening the screw on the anvil end of the points frame and shifting the points frame in or out at the crankshaft. It sounds like the coil air gap is good at the business card thickness and the .015 is acceptable for the points.

 

[jbowlin723]

I buttoned that up and will test it to see what it does. Next up on my list is the pulley/spring. I think it needs to be cleaned. Also - there is no fuel filter on it. I found a reddish disk and a spring in the fuel tank. Any ideas on that? Here are some pics...

 

[pioneerguy600]

I buttoned that up and will test it to see what it does. Next up on my list is the pulley/spring. I think it needs to be cleaned. Also - there is no fuel filter on it. I found a reddish disk and a spring in the fuel tank. Any ideas on that? Here are some pics...

A large sized modern fuel filter will work fine on the saw. I once cleaned out a new to me IEL model RA and it had 5 fuel strainers plus a handfull of old black rubber line in the sticky molassas like gunk lining the tank. It now runs fine with a Stihl filter that the larger sized Stihl saws use. As long as the nipple end of the fuel filter fits tightly into the fuel pickup line it will do its job properly. The recoil springs can get dirty and a bit rusted up, I clean them up after soaking in WD40 or any rust removing/penetrating oil like Berrymans, wipe the rust and gunk off the spring and wind it back into its housing. A light spray of oil helps prevent further rust but don`t drown it just a light coating will do it. I would replace that sparkplug wire in its entirety, it will unscrew from the coil and a new piece will screw back in with little effort.

 

[jbowlin723]

Thanks for your help. I put a new stihl larger filter on it like you suggested - fit fine. Tank is clean. I will ignore that spring but keep it in case lol. I took the recoil spring out last night. I gently let it unravel and it was broken in two places. I guess that's why it wasn't working. I could see it before I even took it out. I ordered a nos one for not too much. Happy I found it. I think the homelite xl-12 (like this one) had sleeves or some sort of protector between the spring - wonder if this one is supposed to have that. Is there an IPL out there? I am also wondering how the cable for the plug wire unscrews - you mean pull out with a twist? I don't want to yank on it as I already split it and pulled the boot off. The bend in the coil (part that stabs the wire) inside the boot is gone so it's straight. I am also missing the on/off metal piece for the switch although right now - I want to make sure it runs. Also interested in the spike for it. I think some solid part numbers on an IPL would help me for other parts as needed. Once I get the coil - I will see if it barks off for me then will start the carb headache. Right now - I am avoiding it pretending it's fine.

 

[pioneerguy600]

I have never seen an IPL for them but there could be one out there, I had worked on maybe 2 of them through the years, simple stuff like fuel lines ,carb kit etc, nothing major, very few of them in my neck of the woods. The wire where it goes into the coil will unscrew, just twists out of the coil, no pulling needed. The coil on them is very much like the coils used on the 600 series Pioneers. I never had a recoil spring out of one of them so I cannot say what was used inside the recoil unit. I would bet that the Commango would have similar internals, might be easier to find an IPL for one of them.

 

[ray benson]

Some notes taken on the Lombard models.
"It didn't change much in it's production time except the later models had an auto oiler which wasn't of the best design .Came in every color of the rainbow,Orange ,black ,Evinrude blue .Different names ,Al-42,Ap -42 ,Comanga ,Lightning Lightning II,Super Comanga .No matter they're all the same saw ."

 

[pioneerguy600]

Some notes taken on the Lombard models.
"It didn't change much in it's production time except the later models had an auto oiler which wasn't of the best design .Came in every color of the rainbow,Orange ,black ,Evinrude blue .Different names ,Al-42,Ap -42 ,Comanga ,Lightning Lightning II,Super Comanga .No matter they're all the same saw ."

Thanks ,Ray. I figured the Comango would be very similar as they were the same size, around 68 cc and many exterior features looked very similar.