7900 review.

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Wortown Mick

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Well ive got about 6 tanks through my 7900 and feel like I've used it enough to review it.

I'm running a 20 inch bar and sharp stihl full chisel through alot of 20 - 40 inch logs, mix of hardwood & pine.

Right off the bat its a different saw than the 6401, the vibration at idle is drasticly reduced. No deco starts you can definitely tell its a fullsize saw.
The saw is renowned for its class leading low weight and high horsepower.

Well, I might be the first to say the weight difference isnt all that appreciable in big wood. Limbing on the other hand is made slightly easier with low weight.
I'm a big guy so I could really care less about a few lbs. The feel and balance of the saw is slightly different than most stihls and huskies ive ran. With a 20 inch bar its nose heavy like its got a 24 . It seems easy to cut crooked with if youre not paying attention to your front hand position, like if its off center the saw drifts toward an uneven cut. This is with a uniform chain and it seems to occur in both directions. Very minor, and most likely a result of myself but the feel of the saw may contribute.

Maybe how easily the saw cuts contributes as well. With a 20 inch bar to keep the engine in the meat of the torque im dogged in pulling up on the back handle with an easy 15 lbs, bar buried in pine. Red oak slowed it a bit more but cutting speed is still acceptable in hardwood. Im not entirely sure what to compare it to. If the saws fully broken in, it cuts like a 460 with more balls - only appreciable with big wood or a buried bar.

Its definitely torquier and more powerful than 440/460's
I think a 394 outshines it considerably , as it should. Especially weight set aside. Except for that outboard clutch.

Some design features I liked are that inboard clutch, a good oiler..
Stihls as ive noticed oil kinda poorly even adjusted all the way up, no gripes with the system on this saw. The clip off cover works well and gives easy access to plug and filter. The anti vibe system seems simple and is definitely effective. I pinched the bar in a thick maple today and wrestled the saw out without straining them too too bad. Heh, or so I think.
I like the oversized dogs.. They look funky but work well, kinda like the saw in general. Ive gotten comments on the blue dress from almost everyone whos seen it that knows saws. The choke & half throttle lever and linkage works flawlessly. Argueably easier to use than the monolever.

Some things I wasnt happy with is the junk air filter. The stock air filter with the gills on the bottoms junk. Yes it removes easy and blows out easy, but it also lets in far too much fine sawdust particles. I dont know if the leakage is from the oval fitting, the seam to split the filter open, or if all of its being sucked through the white mesh. I know some is from looking at it.
Ive heard of a functional air filter and would be interested in a part number to order set filter.

The fuel and oil caps are dissatisfactory as well. Just like any other cap asides from stihl toolless caps they are easy to overtighten. Ok, thats par for the course. But the sideways notch to use a scrench as a lever sucks. Using the screwdriver like old stihl caps is most definitely the best system for screw off caps.

Im considering modifying the dolmar caps, or finding some stihl caps that fit or somethin.

I needa do a muffler and carb cover mod to get it breathing a lil better too.


Final word
The 7900 isnt a lightsaber. Hower it is a damn good saw, its hella strong and will hang with any saw in its class. Just dont expect it to cut like a 90+ cc saw. Theyre the best bang for the buck availiable. I paid 120 for the 6401 and 190 or 200 for the 7900 jug & piston. for 320$ it cuts like a saw worth well over twice what I have into it. I built the saw on the hood of my truck in a parking lot.. Theyre SIMPLE to wrench. You litterally need a chainsaw tool and a # 27 torx I think to take the whole saw apart. & with a good dealer any given part can be there the next day which is awesome. Better than stihl or husky.


Speaking of torx drivers, anyone know where to get a nice torx t handle for saws? Or a slightly oversized one for stripped torx fasteners?
 
Thanks for the review.

Wiha makes a good T-handled torx. I believe bailey's (a site sponsor) sells them.
 
overall

I agree with most of the things you said, good and bad. I do however like the gas/oil caps with the sideways opener. Some of the older ones would slip out or I'd lose the danged scrench and I'd be stuck trying to find something, this way you can use anything to wedge in there and open'em up... Stihl caps also seem to twist out of place like almost every time I try to put them on and have to fiddle around sometimes to get it back on. The other thing is the choke, GOD I LOVE THESE CHOKES!!!! They are 1000X's better than monolever. The new stihls have them and are the WORST part of any of their new lineup. They just don't slide up and down well at all. We didn't have the new Stihl for 2wks and busted that damn lever on the stihl trying to turn it off and on... The other thing is the oiler. I'm kinda old school with this, I like a tank of fuel for a tank of oil, that's always seemed to be the best method for keeping chain lubed well... The newer stihls and ALL husky's seem to use about half that and seems like the chain gets heat marked sometimes from the lack of lube, even seems like they dull quicker, JMO... As far as strong, I thought it very comparable to the 90cc's saw's I've run, definitely faster in medium sized wood, lighter and smoother, the 288XP which I use quite a bit also is slower for medium sized stuff, but seems to have a little more low end torque in bigger wood. The sound of this saw has been my main enjoyment, sounds kinda like a turbo charged chainsaw or something, I love it... Only other thing I can think of is the air filter. I've prolly got 20+hours on mine and the air filter seems perfect. Not a leak, no dust, the inside of the carb is as clean now as it was the day I brought it home, so yours is odd... Maybe it needs to be sealed with some silicone or something of that nature, make sure it's resistant to gasoline though... All in all, this is one hella saw with some serious cohonas... I was thinking about getting some of those nads to dangle from the handle of mine like those dudes do on their trucks, lmfao... After about 10 tanks or so it's fully broken in... Great review guy. :cheers:

Cheers eh?
Dude
 
Nice review! ever since I joined this sight I have read so much about the 7900/7901. But nobody has one or herd of it for that matter here. I don't need one but want one:hmm3grin2orange: I wonder how it would compare to my 056 with the 9 pin and 20'' bar.:biggrinbounce2: I know it would be lighter!
 
I agree with most of the things you said, good and bad. I do however like the gas/oil caps with the sideways opener. Some of the older ones would slip out or I'd lose the danged scrench and I'd be stuck trying to find something, this way you can use anything to wedge in there and open'em up... Stihl caps also seem to twist out of place like almost every time I try to put them on and have to fiddle around sometimes to get it back on. The other thing is the choke, GOD I LOVE THESE CHOKES!!!! They are 1000X's better than monolever. The new stihls have them and are the WORST part of any of their new lineup. They just don't slide up and down well at all. We didn't have the new Stihl for 2wks and busted that damn lever on the stihl trying to turn it off and on... Great review guy. :cheers:

Cheers eh?
Dude

Cisco,,,, Fiddling with the caps & old school Eh???? don't know if you bought your Stihls new but if you didn't and the previous owner had akready stressed the fuel/oil caps from not knowing any better,,,,,, then they need replaced,,,, new ones installed properly should drop right in and rotate clockwise and you're done,,, also the new monolever choke/on/off control,,, If no one ever showed you that the throttle has to be applied,,,before going to either of the choke positions and you force it,,,, it wll pop out every time or break something!!!!!!! to go just from on/off the throttle need not be applied eh???? BTW giving it throttle when appling the chokes is how the fast idle gets set.....

Good review BTW,,,I have a 6401 I'm gonna convert to 7900 my ownself!!!!! I think dolmar has improved the aifilter top cover!!!!

River
 
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.... also the new monolever choke/on/off control,,, If no one ever showed you that the throttle has to be applied,,,before going to either of the choke positions and you force it .....


I also notised that - it is annoying, but necessary, to use the trottle when putting the saw at choke or high idle.
I don't like this system, but have gotten used to it.......;)
 
Good review. I personally like the Dolmar caps vs. the old Stihl style. (I haven't used the new Stihl caps yet).

I also love the choke and am glad they changed it from the 5100 style. On my 5100 I kept flipping it up to stop the saw (like Stihl) however up was full choke which is opposite of Stihl and I tended to flood the saw for the next start. (can't teach an old dog new tricks).

My 7900 definately feels stronger then my MS460. I think it would give a MS660 a run for it's money too.

The one thing I don't like about the 7900 is the chain tension mechanism on the cover.

I'm tempted to leave my 7900 stock. Those Dolmar muffler crimps are tough.
 
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Caps

Cisco,,,, Fiddling with the caps & old school Eh???? don't know if you bought your Stihls new but if you didn't and the previous owner had akready stressed the fuel/oil caps from not knowing any better,,,,,, then they need replaced,,,, new ones installed properly should drop right in and rotate clockwise and you're done,,, also the new monolever choke/on/off control,,, If no one ever showed you that the throttle has to be applied,,,before going to either of the choke positions and you force it,,,, it wll pop out every time or break something!!!!!!! to go just from on/off the throttle need not be applied eh???? BTW giving it throttle when appling the chokes is how the fast idle gets set.....

Good review BTW,,,I have a 6401 I'm gonna convert to 7900 my ownself!!!!! I think dolmar has improved the aifilter top cover!!!!

River



Yea, they are easy enough. What happens is you turn the dang thing when it's not quite seated correctly and it twists so it won't seat. Odd. Only sometimes its frustrating, the wife swears at it consistently...

Nice review! ever since I joined this sight I have read so much about the 7900/7901. But nobody has one or herd of it for that matter here. I don't need one but want one:hmm3grin2orange: I wonder how it would compare to my 056 with the 9 pin and 20'' bar.:biggrinbounce2: I know it would be lighter!


I’ve got a 056 Mag II. The 7900 absolute WON’T run with a dawg this size bro, lol. Small stuff, all day, when you hit a 30” or so tree and with with bigger bars, it can’t hang with it… It is about 10lbs lighter though and I love love love the 056 mags.

I put the new husky fuel and oil caps with the green gasket on my 7300 fit great.

I just did that on my 288XP and my 266XP also. I like the ones with the green gaskets better, they seem to be a tighter seal...
:cheers:
Cheers eh?
 
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Wortown Mick = Some things I wasnt happy with is the junk air filter. The stock air filter with the gills on the bottoms junk. Yes it removes easy and blows out easy, but it also lets in far too much fine sawdust particles. I dont know if the leakage is from the oval fitting, the seam to split the filter open, or if all of its being sucked through the white mesh. I know some is from looking at it.)))))))))))))


You say you are running mesh filter, all my mesh filters (no matter brand of saw) I have ran have let very fine particles in.

Run the stock flocked filters, I have the flocked and the mesh for the 7900 and the flocked ones dont let the fine particles through.
Also the new updated carb cover that cuttinscott and 166 sale are the cats azz for stopping the large chips from getting wedged underside pleats.
Newtop-oldtop.jpg
 
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"Run the stock flocked filters, I have the flocked and the mesh for the 7900 and the flocked ones dont let the fine particles through.
Also the new updated carb cover that cuttinscott and 166 sale are the cats azz for stopping the large chips from getting wedged underside pleats".
Newtop-oldtop.jpg
[/QUOTE]

Good advise, I just ordered 2 flocked filters and the new top cover for my 7900. Way too much dust enters the nylon filter.
 
the EASY way to mod hte muffler.

remove cover over spark mesh. remove spark mesh. drill hole much bigger. replace spark mesh, replace outlet cover.

look down into muffler inlet. take a 6 inch long 3/8 ratchet extension, and drop it small end down into muffler entrance.

beat on it with medium hammer to open up the 45 degree cover down in there.

drive it.
 
the EASY way to mod hte muffler.

remove cover over spark mesh. remove spark mesh. drill hole much bigger. replace spark mesh, replace outlet cover.

look down into muffler inlet. take a 6 inch long 3/8 ratchet extension, and drop it small end down into muffler entrance.

beat on it with medium hammer to open up the 45 degree cover down in there.

drive it.

OK, I just modded my 7900 muffler but it's actually pretty easy to seperate the two halves. The bottom crimp can be rolled over and then just give the remaining seam a shot of WD40 and use a rubber mallet to seperate the two halves. The two halves will just slide apart. Now use a hacksaw to cut the 90 degree bend from the inner baffle. Now use a Dremel to exand the exit hole to about 2X the size. Rinse all the shavings out and put the muffler back together and recrimp the bottom edge. (you won't even see the bottom edges once it's re-installed. It took me about 45 minutes and it's a lot easier then the PS5100.
 
^ im going to keep this in mind.

I intend to modify the muffler in my own fashion. Im curious if I can get some of the gains an expansion chambwer would provide in a stock muffler.

Theoretically speaking if I were to provide a surface for the exhaust pressure impulse to reflect off of, the correct distance away from the exhaust port. The excess// unburnt fuel scavenged from the cylinder would be rammed into the cylinder. Providing a gain.

Ill probably just improve the flow and leave it at that though.


Does anyone have PN's for the flocked filter && improved cover?

Ill hafta pick em up sometime.


I dont understand why they would put such a poor filter on the professional model saws. They should come stock with adequate parts.

Oh well, everythin needs a few tweaks to meet end user requirements I suppose.
 
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filters

I have had the mesh filters with holes melted in them and I blame the local fuel. I have not had a flocked filters melt running the same fuel. If you're really worried about the filter do a cheap fix, buy a green foam lawnmowwer filter and cut it to fit in the filter box over the filter so the foam covers the mesh filter. A drop or two of oil on the foam and you have a double air filter.
In the old days I ran saws with no filter, you were going to replace the saw every 3-5 years anyway. A pro will keep his saw in good clean wood anyway. He has learned over the years that keeping the saw in good wood or for that matter in the wood that the chain stays sharper longer and by avoiding trenching the ground he puts less dirt in the saw which means less scoring of the engine by sucking dirt. It's all in how you use the saw.
How many times have you seen the new guy or Happless Harry homeowner put the saw into the ground on the first cut? He doesn't just dull the chain he's throwing dirt into the saw. Go for the flocked filter or put some foam in there to catch the dirt. The foam catches fine dust if it's oiled.
If you don't like what you got change it. Don't like the filters make your own prefilter with some foam. Going to buy a new saw every few years? Why bother with using a filter if your going to replace the saw every couple of years.
It's all in how you're going to use the saw, how long you're going to keep it. If you intend to keep the saw for years buy the better filter and clean the saw more often.
If you don't think the saw is a lightsaber get it modded, it will keep up to the 660 in all but the biggest wood if modded like mine are. I said it before, the 7900 is a good saw to own/use. I have a couple of them. The only time they are hard to start is if you don't have the switch in the on position. If it didn't start by the third pull the switch is in the OFF position. If it doesn't start on the first pull when warm, you have the switch in the OFF position. I don't like a saw that doesn't start easy and run well.
 

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