90cc 20inch bar?

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,Quicker to need sharped, too. It takes a fixed number is toof passes to get through a log. Fewer toofs means each toof has to make more passes.
Yeah very true. Usually hit something when cutting on the log pile. If the logs are nice and roll out I run a longer bar and can stay away from the stones. 24 for a short ass is nice
 
I have ran a 16" on a stock Husky 3120 and it was a complete pooch, BUT that is because the saw has more than enough power. I run 20" on everything 272 395, 026, 034, 044, 066. It is the best bar for my needs. To answer your question of course it will work and be just fine
 
Local loggers (Croatia) run 18" 3/8" B&C's on 661's and 462's.
They do not utilize longer bars!

They were literally shocked seeing me noodle large diameter 40" long preprocessed beech firewood with my PS-7900 and 36" 3/8" B&C.

Go with what feels comfortable to You.
 
I know folks will argue with me but if you don't need a full wrap handle you don't need a long bar to fall trees
True, I was writing up an instance that was supposed to argue with you but I realized that both a longer bar and a full wrap would have been useful, thereby proving your point. I definitely prefer having a bar that's at least the width of the trunk I'm cutting but it isn't necessary.
 
True, I was writing up an instance that was supposed to argue with you but I realized that both a longer bar and a full wrap would have been useful, thereby proving your point. I definitely prefer having a bar that's at least the width of the trunk I'm cutting but it isn't necessary.
I will not argue what is preferred. My point was what was needed. Remember needs,wants, and desires............. There is a difference
 
I guess I just don't see the point in it. I guess there are 2 different philosophies on bar length, some people run the shortest bars they can get away with...I prefer to run the longest bars that I can. My 066 runs a 36" most of the time. It's a ported beast of a saw, so it has no problem running that even in oak or Euc. Besides, I can stand up straight when I'm bucking and limbing the tree after falling it...it's already a nearly 20lb powerhead, I don't want to work harder by having to bend over to cut stuff. 🤷‍♂️
But how about when you must cut from the bottom?
 
Thats like saying A/C is not needed in our cars trucks houses etc. No sometimes it isnt needed for everyone. But I dang sure want my A/C. :laughing:

West coast guys and their steep areas to cut most times want full wrap and longer bars out there.

I learned on my hills down south Ohio I took in a full wrap and half wrap when I went out to cut. Just never know.


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But how about when you must cut from the bottom?
Then I just cut it from the bottom. If I'm bucking a log with a top bind, I'll just roll the saw over to cut the offside first. Then I just ream the onside cut as I go...that way the bind is allowed to close, but you're able to keep your bar in the kerf.
 
I really like the idea, but your 372 or 400/462 is gonna cut that 20" wood faster than your 90cc will. It'll be significantly more lightweight and ditto maneuverable/handy too.
 
I guess I just don't see the point in it. I guess there are 2 different philosophies on bar length, some people run the shortest bars they can get away with...I prefer to run the longest bars that I can. My 066 runs a 36" most of the time.
Yes there are many different thoughts. If you are in the Free State of Jefferson I assume you are falling decent sized wood, on steep slopes. That is the point I tried to make regarding full wraps. Why do you run a full wrap? Mainly so you can cut from one side on a steep slope. To do that you need a long bar. Many folks do not work in those conditions so why would they want to pack around a 36" bar and sharpen a 115 driver chain when a 20" bar and 72 driver chain will work. It is simply a preference
 

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