90cc vs 120cc

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mdavlee

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For you guys out there running a 36" mill with 90cc saws or 120cc saws I'm looking for input before I jump to a 120cc saw. I've got a 9010 and 660 right now and they seem to do ok up to 23" wide is the widest I've got to mill so far. Is there enough of a speed difference to go to a 120cc saw like an 084 over these or is it not really any faster. I tried to search but it sucks and I'm not that patient to dig through a lot of it.
 
Like you i am a beginnar and started off with a 660 on a 36 inch cut and it was killing my saw. I upgraded to an 880 and have not looked back. It does not really cut faster but the torque is greater. A skip tooth at 15 degrees and a raker angle to suit the wood you ate cutting will help.....BobL has written some informative posts that will help.

Just sharing what the kind people on the site have taught me so far and my experience.

All the best
 
There is no replacement for displacement. I do most of my milling with my 372, set up with picco chain,'it does very nice. I have used my 075 on some bigger logs, and it definitely goes fast with more cc's even outfitted with 3/8" chain. I would look for a good used big cc saw, you will probably use the smaller ones for the lion share of the milling, and just out the big dog when needed. Just a lot easier to push 15-18 lbs, rather than 20-25.
 
. . . Is there enough of a speed difference to go to a 120cc saw like an 084 over these or is it not really any faster. . . . .
Going from a 90 to 120 cc one might expect 33% increase in cutting speed but as CSM in small logs is chain speed limited, to see any sort of speed difference at 23" the rakers have to be dropped on a 120 cc saw to be able to take advantage of the extra torque. As alternative is to go up in sprocket tooth count but even going from 7 to 8 teeth does not gain much cutting speed.
The problem with dropping rakers too far for use in small wood is that the chain becomes marginal or even useless for use in wider cuts.
Where the difference is noticeable at >35" where the 90 cc saws start to struggle.
 
I figured that was mostly the case. The mill and 9010 weigh 38 lbs when its full if fuel. Its no lightweight any way. I'm going to keep looking for a bigger saw. I'm not going to buy a new one for sure.
 
I got lucky on here and found some one {ms 460 John } that had a 880 for sale , he wanted 600 $ :- ] . Saw looked rough but was just cosmetic . Inside it was nice and runs great .
 
I normally run a ported 394/5 on a 36" mill with 3/8 full comp at 5 deg with an 8 pin driver. I've run up to a 44" bar with .404 on the same saw in a full cut of oak, there I needed a light hand.
 
Only milled with 6 cube saws (152/153, 1100/2100)

I really don't think you can go too big!

I know milling a 28" White Oak with them ones I have is painfully slow.

Your mileage may vary though?

But I'm a type of guy that has much more time than money.
 
I know it wouldn't be fast with a 90cc chainsaw milling 30" wide at a time. I m just trying to justify a 120 cc saw. I don't know if a 2100 would be a big step up from what I have now.
 
I know it wouldn't be fast with a 90cc chainsaw milling 30" wide at a time. I m just trying to justify a 120 cc saw. I don't know if a 2100 would be a big step up from what I have now.

I've never run a 390, but I think my 2100 and 3120 compare pretty much in line with their displacements. From the bore and stroke I bet the 2100 has more torque per cc than the 390. A good running 2100 is stout. But it vibrates a lot compared to newer saws.
 
I've never run a 390, but I think my 2100 and 3120 compare pretty much in line with their displacements. From the bore and stroke I bet the 2100 has more torque per cc than the 390. A good running 2100 is stout. But it vibrates a lot compared to newer saws.

I wasn't thinking of using a 390. I have a stihl 660 and dolmar 9010 to use right now with a 288 being put back together soon. All of them have more torque than a 390.

What is there to justify Mitch? You gotta have one!

Well I had one and sold it when I wasn't interested in milling at the time. It was too heavy to lug around for firewood stuff. A 90cc saw was almost as fast at 6lbs less.
 
I know it wouldn't be fast with a 90cc chainsaw milling 30" wide at a time. I m just trying to justify a 120 cc saw. I don't know if a 2100 would be a big step up from what I have now.

I think you'd be a little disappointed with a stock 2100 but their gas and oil fill is in a nice location for use on a mill.
 
I know it wouldn't be fast with a 90cc chainsaw milling 30" wide at a time. I m just trying to justify a 120 cc saw. I don't know if a 2100 would be a big step up from what I have now.

Your trying to justify buying another saw? That's just silly and pointless. My 075 with .404 was faster in 32" elm than my 660 with 3/8. Can't wait to see how the ported 088 does.
 
The only disadvantages are cost, weight and possibly repair parts if you get a real old 120cc saw.

Before I got my 088 (with 36" bar, chains, an Alaskan Mark III, and boxes) for $450 I saw little use for one. My big trees are on the order of 30" DBH.

It's nice to have, but I couldn't justify buying one at even near full price.

It makes a REAL nice sound when I idle it with my 2 660's. :)
 
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