A 038av needs a little help

[BigChopper]

No need to remove flywheel to put on the coil. Check on youtube as its easy, just needs the correct spacing with a business card.

I've got 2 wires going under the flywheel, one for the coil and the other black cable. Its got some wire showing in places, got to give it its best chance of firing up and fix the obvious snags

 

[Bob Hedgecutter]

That "coating" is not unusual for a saw of the vintage- some never have the tank removed from the crankcase and its hard to get cleaning in there- what cant be seen cant hurt
Going to take some inventive JB Weld to fix the old handle.

 

[BigChopper]

Just cleaned the lenses, sorry for the blurs. Here's the 660 wearing a 20" with the 30" below.

So so clean.

 

[Bob Hedgecutter]

I've got 2 wires going under the flywheel, one for the coil and the other black cable. Its got some wire showing in places, go to give it its best chance of firing up.

Did you check for spark before pulling things apart?
Looks like the other long wire has a bad crack in the insulation as well.

The eye crimp connectors you found with no wires- where were they attached? There is a later module similar to a Nova chip that sits above the coil and I wonder if it had one of those at some stage but got reverted back?
The plastic tank saws need an earth wire from master control switch to cases to earth the stop switch (you can see its fitted in the new broken tank you got) and they have an eye crimp to fit between top engine cover and case (although I usually go for top left AV mounting bolt to earth them.

 

[BigChopper]

Did you check for spark before pulling things apart?
Looks like the other long wire has a bad crack in the insulation as well.

The eye crimp connectors you found with no wires- where were they attached? There is a later module similar to a Nova chip that sits above the coil and I wonder if it had one of those at some stage but got reverted back?
The plastic tank saws need an earth wire from master control switch to cases to earth the stop switch (you can see its fitted in the new broken tank you got) and they have an eye crimp to fit between top engine cover and case (although I usually go for top left AV mounting bolt to earth them.

Yeah, after I took the starter mech off I was able to turn it over with a battery drill, no spark, yeah the insulation is unhealthy on all black wires. The eye crimp was on the flywheel side the other side of the carb "bulkhead" in above the coil.

 

[irhunter]

Wow.

 

[BigChopper]

Wow.

As in "wow" that I knackered?
Once I've got the saw back together and running I'll try and fabricate something to fix it.

 

[postr]

@ray benson I am working on a similar rebuild...could you help me out with manuals also? Thanks!

 

[irhunter]

As in "wow" that I knackered?
Once I've got the saw back together and running I'll try and fabricate something to fix it.

No. You're fine.

Wow...as in, that's one broken handle!

Did you think about buying a used OEM handle?

Roy

 

[Mad Professor]

I have worked with guys that would sketch the outline of a part on a piece of cardboard box then punch the screws in where they fit, helps them with the correct size and length of screw during reassembly, fortunate for me as I have not needed visual aids. If the screws are just pushed in through the cardboard they stay retained very well.

Rebuilding cars/trucks/tractors, we would punch holes in a piece of cardboard to keep track of the pushrods, egg cartons for lifters and valve train parts.

 

[BigChopper]

Rebuilding cars/trucks/tractors, we would punch holes in a piece of cardboard to keep track of the pushrods, egg cartons for lifters and valve train parts.

View attachment 1236983

I do the exact thing while doing motorcycle casings.

 

[BigChopper]

No. You're fine.

Wow...as in, that's one broken handle!

Did you think about buying a used OEM handle?

Roy

I'd love a secondhand handle for it but from what I read they are rare. If anyone has one I'd rather fit genuine parts

 

[Bob Hedgecutter]

I'd love a secondhand handle for it but from what I read they are rare. If anyone has one I'd rather fit genuine parts

Finding one in the UK might not be that easy, Europe maybe easier, the USA easier yet- but then you incur the shipping costs VAT etc.
I would be sorting the no spark issue first- figuring out if everything still goes on the ignition side or if the module under the flywheel is kaput- can be replaced with a chip and spark occurs- before spending any money on other parts, genuine or not.
Not a lot of point investing time and pounds into a saw that looks complete but does not run in the end of it all.

 

[guym3]

There are a couple of sellers on ebay who frequently breakdown old 038's and sell the parts. I've bought a few things off them for very reasonable prices. Just need to wait a couple of weeks.
Also you can still buy the new OEM part for £140 from various sellers but obviously that's a lot more money.

 

[BigChopper]

I managed to find one secondhand handle in France, non in Spain, Italy, Germany or the Netherlands buts it's an old plastic version.
Still waiting on a flywheel tool, impulse pipe, the new annular buffers have arrived so I'm nearly ready to put it back together.

I've repaired the damage to the new chinese handle with a mix of superglue and baking powder making cyanoacrylate.

Be glad when I hear the first pop.

 

[Bob Hedgecutter]

The plastic used on 038 era tanks seems to get somewhat brittle with age (in my experience) and a lot seem to have cracks, or pieces missing on the foot pad area- think I have two 038 Magnums here suffering from it.

 

[Wood Doctor]

I should never have sold my 038 AV:



The new owner loves it. All it needed was a new impulse hose. I replaced that and cleaned it up before I shipped it to Connecticut. Could have used it last year. Dang!

 

[BigChopper]

I've started to put it together, the handle is fitted with new annular buffers and screwed together and I fitted the new exhaust. I've not fitted the rebuilt carb yet as I haven't got to the bottom of the electrics and I might need space to move wires about.

I've noticed there must be something missing behind the bar adjuster, it's the front type not the side type. I've fitted a fresh adjuster from the spare fasteners but there is nothing holding it forward to engage the bar location hole.

Behind part 3 in this diagram.

I've fitted part 4 (the clamp) but part 2 and part 3 are still quite floppy.

The only other thing that's stopped me is the wiring from the module under the wheel, the coil connections and the 2 pins on the start button.

The bottom wire that came installed on the handle goes through a grommet and has a eye connector. I have another long wire in the coil kit one end is a pin for the start button the other end has a spade connector.

The module under the flywheel has 2 connections in an eye connector, I did have the instructions for the coil but I've misplaced them.

 

[BigChopper]

I can't get a spark. I copied the original system of wiring and tried them backwards still no spark.

 

[Bob Hedgecutter]

I can't get a spark. I copied the original system of wiring and tried them backwards still no spark.

Exactly what I mentioned earlier- spending money on parts for a saw that isnt going to fire.
There was (not sure if still is) a chip available from Stihl that mounts above the coil and will replace the module under the flywheel- similar to a Nova chip, will have to consult some service manuals to find out the part number.