JSMississippi
ArboristSite Member
Would it be possible to stuff some JBWeld into the cavity, then grind/polish it smooth with the surface (or wipe if you're fast and clean enough)?
McCulloch Chain Saws
- Thread starter Bruce Hopf
- Start date
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Yes
Rotax Steve
ArboristSite Member
Thanks for asking the question I was just going to ask. And thank you vinnywv for your answer.
Wash it out with a can of brake clean. Cap the end or umm "join" Inject a syringe full in it feed in some "rebar" (string or lacing wire or something throw some tape over the hole and then tip it up sideways and it will have a nice big block of reinforced resin. Sand off the rash all nice and job done. Could even sneak in some decent wire through the end before ya cap it. Few bits of wire in there it'll never break
Macman125
Addicted to ArboristSite
So I can ditch the points set ups in my 81's, in favor of a 610 coil? Same flywheel between the electronic and points systems on the 10 series?
The flywheels are the same, but the mounts for the coil are different.
This is a "point only" cylinder.
This style will accept either the points type coil or the electronic ignition coil - note that this one does not have both holes drilled & tapped for the electronic coil.
The one on the left will only accept the electronic ignition coil, the one on the right will accept either coil (with a spacer for the points coil).
Mark
This is a "point only" cylinder.
This style will accept either the points type coil or the electronic ignition coil - note that this one does not have both holes drilled & tapped for the electronic coil.
The one on the left will only accept the electronic ignition coil, the one on the right will accept either coil (with a spacer for the points coil).
Mark
The CP125 and SP105/125 saws came with a piece of rubber tubing over the handle bar in that area, PN 69885 Protector - Frame.
I have some "replacement" parts made from a section of 7/8" heater hose.
Mark
I have some "replacement" parts made from a section of 7/8" heater hose.
Mark
I have a couple of those,still in the factory plastic bag.Plus my Husqvarna 288XPW has a factory thick rolling rubber hose chain protector that takes any abuse from chain rash.Only saws I have or remember seeing with that type of item that wasnt homemade by the user.
Rotax Steve
ArboristSite Member
Three questions on my SP81E.
- Is the shield usable or do any of you have recommendations to make it usable?
- The sprocket is in good shape correct?
- I always clean out anything that needs to be with a dental tool, vacuum, degreaser, paper towels and a lot of q-tips. No being familiar with the setup that's underneath all the debris; is there anything I should watch out for or be careful with?
Any suggestions would be helpful (and have been).
Thanks
- Is the shield usable or do any of you have recommendations to make it usable?
- The sprocket is in good shape correct?
- I always clean out anything that needs to be with a dental tool, vacuum, degreaser, paper towels and a lot of q-tips. No being familiar with the setup that's underneath all the debris; is there anything I should watch out for or be careful with?
Any suggestions would be helpful (and have been).
Thanks
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It's a bit tatty sure but won't worry it. The rim still got a turn or 3 in it. Clean away man as long as ya not using a chisel. Drown it in a can of something and hit it with some wind n see how it comes out. I guess be careful of the impulse line and the earth wire. Under the tank. Was it oiling OK? How are the AV mounts. If they are pretty nackerd it be a good idea to do them or you could tear the intake boot.
I'm a tight ass so I made up some rubber blocks and cut the rest of the old rubber off and put some m5 machine screws n nuts right through them. Works OK and kind of adjustable too with the 32 ya can tighten em up a bit for a less wobbly feel but 20 or 24 can loosen them off a bit. Mark or Max probably has some mounts however and probably feel better too but it does work if need be
I figured those were more for sitting your saw down as mine always crawl up the bar when in operation.
Ron
Rotax Steve
ArboristSite Member
What is the earth wire? The intake system is so different than what I'm used to. I ask because I saw this and they appear to be wires just free floating (I think) around the intake. I can't find anything in the IPL.
As for the oiler? After running it for maybe 3 or 4 minutes I set it down on a piece of cardboard and it left an oil stain. The tank was empty and I haven't tried the manual oiler yet.
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JSMississippi
ArboristSite Member
Interesting Mini Mac hedge trimmer:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/1269087387...KVLJWkqQKS&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
https://www.ebay.com/itm/1269087387...KVLJWkqQKS&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
Progress was made on the Bp-1 parts saws that I acquired from Mark Heimann at the end of September. I have enough to build one complete saw with a powerhead/parts back up.
The parts will come in handy as I acquired a complete but needing service bp1 a few weeks ago on a trade(last picture). It sports it's original bar and self sharpening A-8 chain that I hope to try to save/ possibly use
Is this what there supposed to look like Mark
, wait what will we talk about now 
I would like to acknowledge the fine gentleman as follows Mark Heimann, Max Rowe/MaxtheMacMan, Roger Bennett, and Wayne Sutton you all have helped me along and I want to say thank you for starting a new obsession
Special thanks to Mark Garris of Pa for the original bp1.
The parts will come in handy as I acquired a complete but needing service bp1 a few weeks ago on a trade(last picture). It sports it's original bar and self sharpening A-8 chain that I hope to try to save/ possibly use
Is this what there supposed to look like Mark
, wait what will we talk about now I would like to acknowledge the fine gentleman as follows Mark Heimann, Max Rowe/MaxtheMacMan, Roger Bennett, and Wayne Sutton you all have helped me along and I want to say thank you for starting a new obsession
Special thanks to Mark Garris of Pa for the original bp1.
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Its the grounding wire that helps the kill switch work. It goes around the front antivibe. If its not there then it could happen the saw would not shut off because its not grounded well enough because of the antivibe insulating the current.
The wire around the intake boot is a spring. It helps protect the boot from debris tearing it. It is not an electrical wire. Just a spring. I have some saws that dont have the spring. No issues.
Rotax Steve
ArboristSite Member
Thank you. I had a Homelite 350 that needed a new intake boot which was held in place with a garter spring ring and I had to tare it down to the block to do it and I was worried I'd have to do that with this. I don't know why it doesn't seem to be listed or shown in the IPL.
So many questions...
Steve - sprocket is O.K. for a used chain but get a new sprocket for a new chain. The inner shield can be repaired with low temperature brazing rod and the yellow (they call it MAP or MAPP) cylinder on a "propane" torch. The blue cylinders will not provide enough heat. Alternative is your highly skilled TIG welder, that material is very thin. Be sure you have the shim washer/sprocket washer between the sprocket and the crankcase; they are about 1" in diameter and 0.020" thick and protect the PTO side seal. Without it there is a great risk for sawdust, fibers, etc. getting into the seal and causing damage. If it was run without that washer before you received the saw, pressure and vacuum test to be sure the seal is O.K. The spring you see around the intake boot is the ground (earth wire) on that saw, theoretically it makes contact with the metal on each end and completes the circuit so you stop switch will function. Later models utilized a braided wire that attached to the front AV mount on the tank side, and the center mounting screw on the oil tank, evidently the spring on the boot did not provide a secure connection. The IPL you are looking at is for a later saw if it doesn't show that spring.
This is a PM8200, you can see the wire coming from the center of the front AV mount, the other end would attach to the mount with the screw that connected the mount to the tank. You can always add something like that to your saw if the stop switch operation is erratic with the current set up (no pun intended...).
Ron - there are some blind rivets on the handle that are supposed to keep those protectors in place.
JS - Those hedge trimmers are actually very well engineered, and even pretty good ergonomically. There is a planetary gear reduction in the head and a gear set that drives both blade in opposition to one another rather than on fixed blade and one moving blade like most setups. I don't have an electronic version of the IPL or photos from surgery to illustrate so you will just have to take my word for it, or buy that one and dissect it yourself.
Alan - You have (of course) correctly identified that chain as A-8. The other variants were the AC-8 with a chipper style tooth, and AR-8 with the heavy gauge cutters. I would really love to find a full loop of the AR-8 one day.
Mark
Steve - sprocket is O.K. for a used chain but get a new sprocket for a new chain. The inner shield can be repaired with low temperature brazing rod and the yellow (they call it MAP or MAPP) cylinder on a "propane" torch. The blue cylinders will not provide enough heat. Alternative is your highly skilled TIG welder, that material is very thin. Be sure you have the shim washer/sprocket washer between the sprocket and the crankcase; they are about 1" in diameter and 0.020" thick and protect the PTO side seal. Without it there is a great risk for sawdust, fibers, etc. getting into the seal and causing damage. If it was run without that washer before you received the saw, pressure and vacuum test to be sure the seal is O.K. The spring you see around the intake boot is the ground (earth wire) on that saw, theoretically it makes contact with the metal on each end and completes the circuit so you stop switch will function. Later models utilized a braided wire that attached to the front AV mount on the tank side, and the center mounting screw on the oil tank, evidently the spring on the boot did not provide a secure connection. The IPL you are looking at is for a later saw if it doesn't show that spring.
This is a PM8200, you can see the wire coming from the center of the front AV mount, the other end would attach to the mount with the screw that connected the mount to the tank. You can always add something like that to your saw if the stop switch operation is erratic with the current set up (no pun intended...).
Ron - there are some blind rivets on the handle that are supposed to keep those protectors in place.
JS - Those hedge trimmers are actually very well engineered, and even pretty good ergonomically. There is a planetary gear reduction in the head and a gear set that drives both blade in opposition to one another rather than on fixed blade and one moving blade like most setups. I don't have an electronic version of the IPL or photos from surgery to illustrate so you will just have to take my word for it, or buy that one and dissect it yourself.
Alan - You have (of course) correctly identified that chain as A-8. The other variants were the AC-8 with a chipper style tooth, and AR-8 with the heavy gauge cutters. I would really love to find a full loop of the AR-8 one day.
Mark
JSMississippi
ArboristSite Member
Pretty cool about that hedge trimmer Mark! I was sharing mainly in the case that one of you folks (like me) hadn't seen one before or wanted one for collection or museum. Who'da thunk you'd already have one LOL!
JSMississippi
ArboristSite Member
I've seen from going back through the annals of this thread (been trying to do my own research on a lot of my questions, but you don't know what you don't know) that some have used Red-Kote in their fuel tanks. Is this necessary for mine since I've removed all the paint out the bottom, or am I fine running it as is?
Tha ks mark. Never realized tbat was actually a ground wire/spring. Now i know
