A different way to sharpen a chain.

[Bingo]

Sharpening chains...

"Considering the fact that I haven’t frozen to death. That means that I have pretty much come up with my own system to sharpening chains."
This was from the very first post. I thought he might have a system that would make sharpening chains easier...better...more efficient...and, after all those pages from a thread that was 4 yrs old...I got nada!...All I wanted was a better way to sharpen chains...not a treatise on the physics of how the chain works while cutting!...Even though it was all very interesting along the way I wasn't looking for or trying to find an intellectual approach to the theory of the chain in action....End result is I learned very little about a chainsaw chain...very interesting to be sure but not what I'd hoped for...A seeming waste of a PHD approach to the theory of the chain. A big mistake in ego when presented to guys that have been using these chains for years and years...w/great success...Wow...sorry but you've got to present something that changes the paradigm of the chain altogether...be innovative and completely ground breaking in your approach if you want the Noble.....Sorry, I didn't get much of a learning experience from all those pages...sad, as I had hoped for more...A good brain wasted....sigh!
An old post of incredible potential that, in the end, has come to naught...Suckered in again...I like the OP but coming up against reality and experience has proven his downfall it seems....Geez, I need a beer...Be nice if this were more up to date....Guess it's over...AS is fun though!

 

[Moparmyway]

"Considering the fact that I haven’t frozen to death. That means that I have pretty much come up with my own system to sharpening chains."
This was from the very first post. I thought he might have a system that would make sharpening chains easier...better...more efficient...and, after all those pages from a thread that was 4 yrs old...I got nada!...All I wanted was a better way to sharpen chains...not a treatise on the physics of how the chain works while cutting!...Even though it was all very interesting along the way I wasn't looking for or trying to find an intellectual approach to the theory of the chain in action....End result is I learned very little about a chainsaw chain...very interesting to be sure but not what I'd hoped for...A seeming waste of a PHD approach to the theory of the chain. A big mistake in ego when presented to guys that have been using these chains for years and years...w/great success...Wow...sorry but you've got to present something that changes the paradigm of the chain altogether...be innovative and completely ground breaking in your approach if you want the Noble.....Sorry, I didn't get much of a learning experience from all those pages...sad, as I had hoped for more...A good brain wasted....sigh!
An old post of incredible potential that, in the end, has come to naught...Suckered in again...I like the OP but coming up against reality and experience has proven his downfall it seems....Geez, I need a beer...Be nice if this were more up to date....Guess it's over...AS is fun though!

I agree with you.
I just joined, but have worked on this stuff since I was a kid, spent $500 on a great benchtop sharpner 30 years back. I cut trees on the side for friends since I was chopping them down with an axe with my brother at 7 years for me, and he was 9. I file if I have to and do a pretty good job, but grind them whenever I can to keep then crisp.

Show me the difference in cutting with a 10 deg difference in cut angle, learn me why its better to keep the standard 30/60 than something like 35/65 .............
Anybody want to teach me what changes with different angles on the sharpner ?
I thought thats what I was going to read .................. guess more splitting on the wood pile for me, and if anyone wants to teach me something, I am all ears !!!

 

[MCW]

I agree with you.
I just joined, but have worked on this stuff since I was a kid, spent $500 on a great benchtop sharpner 30 years back. I cut trees on the side for friends since I was chopping them down with an axe with my brother at 7 years for me, and he was 9. I file if I have to and do a pretty good job, but grind them whenever I can to keep then crisp.

Show me the difference in cutting with a 10 deg difference in cut angle, learn me why its better to keep the standard 30/60 than something like 35/65 .............
Anybody want to teach me what changes with different angles on the sharpner ?
I thought thats what I was going to read .................. guess more splitting on the wood pile for me, and if anyone wants to teach me something, I am all ears !!!

Unfortunately a lot of us are under the impression we can teach somebody how to file a chain on the internet. We can't. Only one on one with somebody who knows what they are doing or experience can teach that. The OP thought he'd come out and dazzle us with brilliance or some end world hunger and cure cancer kind of new idea but alas...

The OP who has long gone thought he'd come along and change the world on how chain cuts. Typical highly strung individual who confuses theory with practice. I have struck a lot of people over the years who are basically too smart for their own good. This guy would be great fun to be around as I'm betting he would have a theory on every single thing on earth. You'd turn the kettle on and he'd simply have to explain how a kettle works. He'd then feel obliged to inform you on how a teabag infuses the surrounding water with tea. Do you know how sugar is extracted and refined? Well, just sit down and let me tell you blah blah blah.

He is quite simply a frustrated nerd.

In fact I'm betting he has already burnt his brain out trying to convince others he is the the next Albert Einstein.

Dammit I got sucked into replying to this darn thread...

 

[Metals406]

I'd like to point out that a 5° difference in cutter angle is like 15 thousands of an inch. So whether you're hand filing or grinding, I dare you to hold that kind of tolerance on your teeth, or have the sac to claim you notice a significant difference in the chains performance with 5°.

Jebus, the factory doesn't even give that much of a crap. . . Measure up a chain some time and see what their tolerances are. :msp_rolleyes:

 

[Moparmyway]

Unfortunately a lot of us are under the impression we can teach somebody how to file a chain on the internet. We can't. Only one on one with somebody who knows what they are doing or experience can teach that. The OP thought he'd come out and dazzle us with brilliance or some end world hunger and cure cancer kind of new idea but alas...

The OP who has long gone thought he'd come along and change the world on how chain cuts. Typical highly strung individual who confuses theory with practice. I have struck a lot of people over the years who are basically too smart for their own good. This guy would be great fun to be around as I'm betting he would have a theory on every single thing on earth. You'd turn the kettle on and he'd simply have to explain how a kettle works. He'd then feel obliged to inform you on how a teabag infuses the surrounding water with tea. Do you know how sugar is extracted and refined? Well, just sit down and let me tell you blah blah blah.

He is quite simply a frustrated nerd.

In fact I'm betting he has already burnt his brain out trying to convince others he is the the next Albert Einstein.

Dammit I got sucked into replying to this darn thread...

Well, I appreciate your reply. ......and I agree with you. I had to show my brother how a file should only be pushed across the tooth one way, how to hold the bar and keep it steady while the smoothe push forward is linear, not curved as it moves forward. I got my little file working great, through years of trial and error. I can not explain it, but I can show you how to hold the bar and move the file without dragging it backwards so it stays sharp........ its something learned.

I just wonder how the different angles affect cut speed, smootheness, grabbyness, or if the cut changes-does the saw has a faster "smoothe spot" when it cuts ? etc......
I suppose its just one of those things that will have to be personally experimented on to see if there is even any differences as far as chain sharpness durations ........
BUT wait !!!!
That would mess up my hand file system, wouldnt it ???? It would have to be sharpened differently by file..??
................. so maybe its best to stay @ 30/60 and file away when needed....................I can do a mean file job on my 044 !!

 

[Moparmyway]

I'd like to point out that a 5° difference in cutter angle is like 15 thousands of an inch. So whether you're hand filing or grinding, I dare you to hold that kind of tolerance on your teeth, or have the sac to claim you notice a significant difference in the chains performance with 5°.

Jebus, the factory doesn't even give that much of a crap. . . Measure up a chain some time and see what their tolerances are. :msp_rolleyes:

OK, so 15 deg then ..........
Sorry I think you missed my point.
I hand file and grind my chains, and through decades of both, I now have my filing and grinding working together for the last 15 years so I dont remove much at all on the wheel, even after a dozen touch ups in the field, every cutter just needs a slight dress, thats a close tolerance to me. I think that 5 deg would be a difference somewhere, maybe in how long the cutter stays sharp, maybe a smoother cut, or a cleaner wall on the cut along with a slightly faster cut .............. the dumb things you think of when cookie cutting 36" diameter Hickory so you can use your 12# maul for the next few months. Theres lots of thinking time doing this business ! Then I think - OREGON, STIHL, etc .... comes with those angles, so I should stop thinking, dont want my sac to hurt.

 

[zogger]

How do you keep the lift constant? It would change with load, chain temp, sharpness of the cutters,amount of oil.........

It would be possible to keep it more constant if the rails were shaped with left and right flanges, to stop the chain from coming out at all, and you had to thread the chain in loose as a string, then spin it to complete right on the bar. You'd have to "load the bar" in other words. The chain design would need a similar complimentary rivet extension or roller pin arrangement to ride up against the sideways part of the rail.




I am sure the bar and chain designers have thought of this, because it is obvious, and also obviously rejected it for several reasons..but it would work Ok. Proly cut pretty good actually...Be a bear to manufacture and bars would wear out faster (using the special chain). They could be cut on wearout though and you could switch to normal chain...