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Mad Dog Evans
Advice on Purchasing a New Chain Saw
- Thread starter TNTreeHugger
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Mad Dog Evans
I bought and sold class 3 weapons a lot in the early eighties, that's why I have a few. Their too expensive to buy now.
LittleLebowski
ArboristSite Guru
Yup.
amberg
Addicted to ArboristSite
And the only one that I don't reload for.
Lets derail it some more, these are with out their magazines. Valmet M-72,308,M-1A 308,BM-59, Israel Galil 223 , Fn FAL 308 AR15 A1,Armalit AR-180,M-16A1,Israel Galil 308, AR15A2,H&K 91 308,Steyr Aug,M-16A1 carbine,Valmet M-76,FN FNC
amberg
Addicted to ArboristSite
Sorry to get back on topic here... 
but the heat of summer has finally passed and I'm back to mulching and trimming. 
Just wanted to say a huge THANK YOU to whoever it was that recommended the sawsall - I absolutely LOVE it. It's perfect for everything I've had to trim back and cut down at ground level. One charge goes for about 90 minutes of work, and I have a spare battery. And the pruning blade I bought is fantastic - still on the first one.
After clearing all the scrubby brush and wild Privet away, there isn't really much I'll need a chain saw for - but, if I do need one at least now I know what to buy thanks to you guys.
but the heat of summer has finally passed and I'm back to mulching and trimming. Just wanted to say a huge THANK YOU to whoever it was that recommended the sawsall - I absolutely LOVE it. It's perfect for everything I've had to trim back and cut down at ground level. One charge goes for about 90 minutes of work, and I have a spare battery. And the pruning blade I bought is fantastic - still on the first one.
After clearing all the scrubby brush and wild Privet away, there isn't really much I'll need a chain saw for - but, if I do need one at least now I know what to buy thanks to you guys.
Michigan Escapee
ArboristSite Operative
Yes, sure enough. Of course, I think every sort of ironmongery was recommended that you can reasonably cut a tree with.
I suspect most people are hesitant to recommend a sawzall for anything, because it's good for a lot of things, but not great or excellent for much. It's sort of the vice grips of the cutting tool world. A precision tool it is NOT. And yet most people own 2-3 of em. Usually a big 14 amp wall current one, probably a D handle, and a boxed in end for cutting up masses up rusty metal, rebars, etc. A middling grade one for doing most everything, and occasionally a "turkey slicer" one handed. Like this.
Probably the worst part, and you many discover this on a day when they don't wear gloves, the gearbox near the business end will get furiously hot. Add this with the vibration and friction from holding it, and you'll find your skin peeling away. Whoops!
But, if you get past 3-4 hours of operation without collecting a bunch of burns from changing blades, skin peelage, or a collection of splinters various places, you're doing pretty good.
And the fun part is, you never know you'll REALLY need one of these things, until all the other tools have failed.
I suspect most people are hesitant to recommend a sawzall for anything, because it's good for a lot of things, but not great or excellent for much. It's sort of the vice grips of the cutting tool world.
A precision tool it is NOT. And yet most people own 2-3 of em. Usually a big 14 amp wall current one, probably a D handle, and a boxed in end for cutting up masses up rusty metal, rebars, etc. A middling grade one for doing most everything, and occasionally a "turkey slicer" one handed. Like this.
Probably the worst part, and you many discover this on a day when they don't wear gloves, the gearbox near the business end will get furiously hot. Add this with the vibration and friction from holding it, and you'll find your skin peeling away. Whoops!
But, if you get past 3-4 hours of operation without collecting a bunch of burns from changing blades, skin peelage, or a collection of splinters various places, you're doing pretty good.
And the fun part is, you never know you'll REALLY need one of these things, until all the other tools have failed.
Hmmm. Mine doesn't get hot. Then again, I'm not using it non stop for 3-4 hours.Yes, sure enough. Of course, I think every sort of ironmongery was recommended that you can reasonably cut a tree with.
I suspect most people are hesitant to recommend a sawzall for anything, because it's good for a lot of things, but not great or excellent for much. It's sort of the vice grips of the cutting tool world.
Probably the worst part, and you many discover this on a day when they don't wear gloves, the gearbox near the business end will get furiously hot. Add this with the vibration and friction from holding it, and you'll find your skin peeling away. Whoops!
But, if you get past 3-4 hours of operation without collecting a bunch of burns from changing blades, skin peelage, or a collection of splinters various places, you're doing pretty good.
And the fun part is, you never know you'll REALLY need one of these things, until all the other tools have failed.
Michigan Escapee
ArboristSite Operative
lol! I suppose it depends how much work you're doing with it, and how much load. Usually when cutting metal with one of those, you'll burn through a blade, switch it out, and keep going until you get whatever it is done.
I'm definitely not using mine to full capacity then.
We'll see though, as I take on the Privet taking over my yard on the fencerow... I estimate 20-30 feet deep to the property line.
If I don't get a handle on it now, it'll be at my back door before I know it!
