Farmall Guy
ArboristSite Operative
Didnt relize that, just remember what my hydraulics instructor in college told us. I havent really paid much attention to manufactured splitters since we've already got the one I built.
advise building a splitter
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Didnt relize that, just remember what my hydraulics instructor in college told us. I havent really paid much attention to manufactured splitters since we've already got the one I built.
SWI Don
ArboristSite Guru
Most logs will split with a 5" cyl at less than 1000 psi. On my splitter most logs don't even kick the pump into low speed. Occasionally there will be the big old crotch that you have to be strategic to split at 3000 psi. I have stopped a 30 ton splitter on a crotch but you have to try to do it. If you read the wood and are strategic on your splits you can split most anything with a 20 ton splitter. Before I built mine I used to borrow one that had a 4" cylinder 2000 psi and a 30° straight wedge that was 6" wide at the back. There weren't to many pieces that we didn't split.
That being said GPM's are your friend. They are the most expensive to implement as more gpms means more hp, larger hoses, larger control valves, larger tank etc.
Farmall Guy, I just added an autocyle valve to my splitter this summer along with a log lift and hydraulic 4 way. I will have to be a LOT more carefull than the old setup which had no detents on the valve.
Don
That being said GPM's are your friend. They are the most expensive to implement as more gpms means more hp, larger hoses, larger control valves, larger tank etc.
Farmall Guy, I just added an autocyle valve to my splitter this summer along with a log lift and hydraulic 4 way. I will have to be a LOT more carefull than the old setup which had no detents on the valve.
Don
danger of it when I replaced the valve with the 'detent-both ways) valve. I won't let anyone else run it because of that. Haven't had an accident yet but I never run it without that thought entering my feeble brain.
Depending on the design, you may be able to easily modify it to detent in retract only. Usually some balls or plunger snap into a groove, either on a bolt on collar or machined into the spool itslef. Collar can be welded to fill up the groove, so it wn't detent in one direction. Spool, not so much. Hardened and ground, might have to order a new spool form teh vendor. But most cheap spool valves hae interchangeable spools, they arenot select fit.
Depending on the design, you may be able to easily modify it to detent in retract only. Usually some balls or plunger snap into a groove, either on a bolt on collar or machined into the spool itslef. Collar can be welded to fill up the groove, so it wn't detent in one direction. Spool, not so much. Hardened and ground, might have to order a new spool form teh vendor. But most cheap spool valves hae interchangeable spools, they arenot select fit.
Farmall Guy
ArboristSite Operative
Log lift sure would be handy, I've been thinking about adding one to ours but I never seem to get the time to do it.
SWI Don
ArboristSite Guru
Log lift sure would be handy, I've been thinking about adding one to ours but I never seem to get the time to do it.
It took me two years to get it on mine. I need to put some counterweights on the tongue as I have added a lot of weight to the back. These are in progress just have some drilling to do.
I need to find some time to get out and get some split.
Don
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