Affordable and Reliable

[hank the tank]

Check your local pawn shops for saws and what not. I've bought most of my saws from one down the road from me. I got a 200t for $200 out the door, an ms361 for $225 in excellent condition and a 440 for $300. All of my other saws ran $100-$150.

I wouldn't go buying used climbing gear or anything, but u can find some great deals on saws, especially if you get to know the ppl working there. They call me every time they get a stihl or husky.

 

[Ryan Shaw]

Thanks, I'll keep that in mind. I only have two crappy Paulins right now because I get to use another guys saws where I work, but in a bit I'll be looking for a better saw, so I'll definitely keep that in mind

 

[DR. P. Proteus]

From one DR to another I stronger advise not to spend a dime on anything less than a professional Echo climbing saw back by dealer support. Their other bigger saws ain't to shabby, they make a good reliable inexpensive 2-stroke system, they do.

Also Rock O beeners from Rock Exotica are some of the sleekest, reliable ones there is. 4 will cost you 80 bucks, you need 4. Get oval shaped and use with 10mm high heat grizzly spliced eye2eyes which are again inexpensive, reliable and extremely versatile to handle many a surgeon's needs. You need two of these. These together with good regular 16strand climbing line will make two friction hitch set-ups.

For climbing rope:

If you have the money to buy a 600 foot spool then do it. Cut lengths appropriate to your demographics. Around here I start with 50 foot up to 200 in 50 foot increments. Having this array of operating apparatus provides better procedure.

But if money is tight then go with the longest rope. Keep it in a nice trash can appropriately sized, screw the bags, its cheap quick and easy to move, stow deploy and retrieve rope in a small trash can and it keeps the rope safe. I don't use the lids so the ropes can breathe. Bags suck for that, putting them in bags is hard and if its wet and cold you will never uncoil its frozen tangle. Flake rope into the trash cans and tie the end off to the handle ready to go.

Good quality trash cans are useful in other ways to.

 

[Ryan Shaw]

From one DR to another I stronger advise not to spend a dime on anything less than a professional Echo climbing saw back by dealer support. Their other bigger saws ain't to shabby, they make a good reliable inexpensive 2-stroke system, they do.

Also Rock O beeners from Rock Exotica are some of the sleekest, reliable ones there is. 4 will cost you 80 bucks, you need 4. Get oval shaped and use with 10mm high heat grizzly spliced eye2eyes which are again inexpensive, reliable and extremely versatile to handle many a surgeon's needs. You need two of these. These together with good regular 16strand climbing line will make two friction hitch set-ups.

For climbing rope:

If you have the money to buy a 600 foot spool then do it. Cut lengths appropriate to your demographics. Around here I start with 50 foot up to 200 in 50 foot increments. Having this array of operating apparatus provides better procedure.

But if money is tight then go with the longest rope. Keep it in a nice trash can appropriately sized, screw the bags, its cheap quick and easy to move, stow deploy and retrieve rope in a small trash can and it keeps the rope safe. I don't use the lids so the ropes can breathe. Bags suck for that, putting them in bags is hard and if its wet and cold you will never uncoil its frozen tangle. Flake rope into the trash cans and tie the end off to the handle ready to go.

Good quality trash cans are useful in other ways to.

Thanks a lot, doc. So weird, here no-one uses Echos (probably a Canadian thing or something) but I find plenty of good response to them on these forums.. I'll look into them

 

[DR. P. Proteus]

No problem, if you are serious I like to help. You'll spend some bucks and this work is great!

If you can buy a spool of climbing line that would be best because then all your climbing lines or color coded. Then you buy rigging lines, you will need different sizes most likely so maybe a spool isn't good but get something at least 200 foot. After years you will aquire many different ropes.

Some homemade slings and rigging made from 16 strand climbing line ( Years of trusted service, did some WORK with that stuff):

 

[DR. P. Proteus]

A simple ascender system and some bucket storage:

 

[DR. P. Proteus]

To get a good saddle leave a blank check at the store ( yes, you MUST go to a store no matter what) and take a couple home with you to try. I did not buy the either saddle in this pick. The red and black saddle is outdated, not recommended and might bite your ballsack and change your life forever. Get something that stays out of your balls whatever you do. Bosson seat is best for comfort. This is going to be one of the highest cost per single item, its important to get it right. I use a moderately priced solid designed and made Weaver Cougar which now is important that I say I added a second but primary bridge made out of 16 strand ( the stuff is great!) and use the original bridge as my secondary. These need inpesction and replacement time to time.

 

[Ryan Shaw]

Yeah, to start off with, I was thinking about a 200 footer and as I go on, smaller ones from there. Same concept as you mentioned about the big block to start with, smaller pulleys later. I'm still laid off for the winter (the city is starting the hiring process now) so I made a deal with a private company that I do sidework for to work for gear, instead of money. So, by the time I get hired back by the city, I should have a decent start on my gear. After I get working, I'll see what else I need and go from there

I like your rope bucket/Beemer setup, looks organized. That's for that tip, I think I'll follow suit

 

[DR. P. Proteus]

After 6 months of research on the first generation Cougar's I was first to notice a rupture in the internal fibers of the bridge. Subsequent generation Cougar's are now fitted with a stronger bridge though I still feel the rope diameter to small to take the constant use and abuse the attachement point generate on many of the newer bridge styles. An addition of a 16 strand bridge makes this saddle very workable for about 300 I think.

The rings on this saddle also had problems but have been recitified. I was more than instrumental in seeing that this was also so.

 

[DR. P. Proteus]

The lanyard is also a requirement. This set up has been on a few different saddles over time, right now I have it the rope grab attached to my saddle via a 4 dollar web tether rather than the 40 dollar steel twist shackle that is normally required. I have a cheaper twist locking beener for the tail which I think is important. I find it hackish to let your lanyard tail hang. You can use the rope grabs ( there are many style) on wire core or plain rope lanyards, I use plain rope for easy in tight spots.

 

[DR. P. Proteus]

Whip up some thick diameter 3 strand eye splices for a dollar a foot for light to medium service.

 

[Ryan Shaw]

To get a good saddle leave a blank check at...
...and replacement time to time.

Wow, nice setup. I think my first saddle will be whatever I get through this deal I have with the private company. If it's not the greatest, which it likely won't be, I'll end up just getting a better one when I'm back to work. Like you said, big bucks, but worth spending extra, cuz I want to be as comfortable as possible when that's what's supporting my weigh every day, not breaking my nuts. I like the idea of try before you buy, but I don't see them allowing it here. I'll definitely give it a shot though!

 

[DR. P. Proteus]

And this 16k pound Nerex tree cabling rope can be spliced with fingers for about the same price

 

[Ryan Shaw]

The lanyard is also a requirement. This set up has been on a few different saddles over time, right now I have it the rope grab attached to my saddle via a 4 dollar web tether rather than the 40 dollar steel twist shackle that is normally required. I have a cheaper twist locking beener for the tail which I think is important. I find it hackish to let your lanyard tail hang. You can use the rope grabs ( there are many style) on wire core or plain rope lanyards, I use plain rope for easy in tight spots.

Man, you have a lot of advice that will save me plenty of headache and wasted time or even money. Sounds like you've been around the block plenty (as the wear on your figure 8 descender would suggest haha,) appreciate the advice

 

[Ryan Shaw]

Whip up some thick diameter 3 strand eye splices for a dollar a foot for light to medium service.

What's the advantage of using the three stand? Just cuz it's so cheap?

 

[DR. P. Proteus]

I made the three 3strand and the one Nerex for dollars while the one that cost 80 bucks had the splice slip. Its still good to have that kind too though, very strong and durable, pricey though.




The splicing fid is in the first picture.

 

[DR. P. Proteus]

The splice is very easy and can be taken apart, put back, adjust and configured to fit a variety of hardware.

 

[DR. P. Proteus]

And its been tested to failure with my stamp of approval. Man we walloped her good, shock loaded her with some weight we did. All on purpose. the splice is fine still.

 

[DR. P. Proteus]

Then you just put it all together with steel beeners and shackles and pulleys then hook it to the truck.

 

[DR. P. Proteus]