Chainsaw Jim
CJ Saws, LLC
That's not really the point.
Aftermarket chains
- Thread starter Otter
- Start date
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That's not really the point.
lambs
Stihl crazy after all these years
I like Stihl and Husky. Husky is a little softer but that means it can be sharpened faster too.
Does husky have it's chain out? Or is it still oregon this might have been gone over in this post
woojr
ArboristSite Operative
You might think about what you're using the chains on... like hardwoods? Do you get in the dirt, and most importantly how you maintain the chain, bar and sprocket health. Like when do you stop cutting and sharpen the chain and clean the crap out of the bar groove. I mean if you don't stop until the chain is not cutting at all and you basically destroyed the cutter, then buy the cheapest you can throw away and replace. Stihl will be a waste of money if you cut dirty firewood with it. Are you cutting big trees or plywood with nails? Do you have a tree farm? I always try to match the saw, bar size etc to the job.
I used to use and sell after market chains to guys I knew were clearing a lot for a house and that's the last thing they did. I had a few pros that I sold Oregon because that's what the distributor that I bought saws from put on them. I found Carlton and Oregon worked well when kept sharp. Check out Buckin Billy for his chain posts. I used to get chains to cut when the teeth were filed down to about nothing. You file to keep them sharp and keep the bar clean and lubed and they'll perform. And I also found the bottom of chains as important as the tops. For instance an 063 drive link chain needs to be replaced in kind, and if the chain wobbles back and forth in the groove it reduces cutting as the kerf shrinks.
To sum up, if you don't sharpen on the bar in the field, you'll be replacing more chains than if you don't. The cost is up to you. Just count the links twice before you break it or you'll be using a bunch of make up links. You can get a chart to lay the chain on it to get the right number of links. I have one from Laser that's about 45 years old. And don't reuse the old rivets. One last suggestion, anchor the breaker and maker tools where they're in a comfortable height. Good cutting and work safe.
I used to use and sell after market chains to guys I knew were clearing a lot for a house and that's the last thing they did. I had a few pros that I sold Oregon because that's what the distributor that I bought saws from put on them. I found Carlton and Oregon worked well when kept sharp. Check out Buckin Billy for his chain posts. I used to get chains to cut when the teeth were filed down to about nothing. You file to keep them sharp and keep the bar clean and lubed and they'll perform. And I also found the bottom of chains as important as the tops. For instance an 063 drive link chain needs to be replaced in kind, and if the chain wobbles back and forth in the groove it reduces cutting as the kerf shrinks.
To sum up, if you don't sharpen on the bar in the field, you'll be replacing more chains than if you don't. The cost is up to you. Just count the links twice before you break it or you'll be using a bunch of make up links. You can get a chart to lay the chain on it to get the right number of links. I have one from Laser that's about 45 years old. And don't reuse the old rivets. One last suggestion, anchor the breaker and maker tools where they're in a comfortable height. Good cutting and work safe.
