Almost lost my 660

Rugged made
Wesspur
Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
GASoline71 said:
Hey punk... nobody ever said you don't work hard. I'm sure you work your a$$ off everyday. That's a good start to a great work ethic. But you gotta give respect to get it...

Your blatant BS posts make me wanna puke sometimes. Yes my back is f'd up... No I can't pack a saw all day in the woods...but... you haven't got the balls to even pack my lunch for me.

You wanna be a part of somethin' and give advice when it is needed... then listen (read) what others are sayin'. You're young... full of pi$$ and vinegar. You think I wasn't a snot nosed loudmouth punk like you once? LMAO... you are me when I was young. I knew it all, had all the answers, none of the old farts that I worked with were gonna tell me what to do... I already knew what to do. Don't tell me my cuts suck... I'll knock you on your a$$... whatever old man... I know how to set a choke, gun the lay, rig the mountain... go F yourself...

I was humbled early on... very early on... watched a guy get crushed on a turn I was supposed to be workin'. But since I was a loudmouth pr1ck that knew better, and thought how they were workin' the turn was stupid... I was up on the landin' buckin' BS snags that were bein' yarded out to make way for a new line... A guy got killed doin' a job I was supposed to be doin'. Makes me feel great.. everday of my life... :mad:

Give the respect you want, and you will get it... until then... shut your pie hole.

Gary
Click to expand...

Truer words of wisdom could not have been spoken
 
Bein that I come from HW country, and open face country, some of the things in this thread are more familiar on this side of the MS. I've only had one tree rotten enough to collapse on my first cut, the down cut of the face. I have had more than one sit down on the bar when boring- not too many, but it can happen. Basswood is really bad about it, you have ot be sawing/plunging in and out the whole time you're boring to keep wallowing out the bore- like you can do with a 660 when downcutting, bucking logs under downward pressure so you don't have to undercut. They often grow 3 stems from the same base. Take the typical 20-24" dbh baswood clump, all three stems will be leaning heavy crown 20' plus out from the stump and any one of them will be prone to siting on your bore. Why bore? Cause they're each leaning 20' plus out from their stump so ain't kno way a back cut can keep up with their fall without a barberchair.

One tree like that pictured by 2dogs, I'd be looking for a segment of trunk where there is more solid wood than other parts, decipher in that where I can find hingewood and cut accordingly.

When hung during a bore on a heavy leaner, radio over to another cutter, usually cut below or above the bore cut from the back until the cuts bypass and the person whose saw is hung will pull it out as the tree breaks free. The one time I got hung on a face cut I had my cutting partner cut a new face in a better part of the stem and we just started the whole felling procedure over. The danger there is tree collapse as the pressure is distributed between the original cutting and the new cutting and instead of the tree being guided by the hinge it breaks vertically between the original ctting and the new cutting and breaks off in a rather uncontroled manner.
 
Last edited:
hammerlogging said:
Bein that I come from HW country, and open face country, some of the things in this thread are more familiar on this side of the MS. I've only had one tree rotten enough to collapse on my first cut, the down cut of the face. I have had more than one sit down on the bar when boring- not too many, but it can happen. Basswood is really bad about it, you have ot be sawing/plunging in and out the whole time you're boring to keep wallowing out the bore- like you can do with a 660 when downcutting, bucking logs under downward pressure so you don't have to undercut. They often grow 3 stems from the same base. Take the typical 20-24" dbh baswood clump, all three stems will be leaning heavy crown 20' plus out from the stump and any one of them will be prone to siting on your bore. Why bore? Cause they're each leaning 20' plus out from their stump so ain't kno way a back cut can keep up with their fall without a barberchair.

One tree like that pictured by 2dogs, I'd be looking for a segment of trunk where there is more solid wood than other parts, decipher in that where I can find hingewood and cut accordingly.

When hung during a bore on a heavy leaner, radio over to another cutter, usually cut below or above the bore cut from the back until the cuts bypass and the person whose saw is hung will pull it out as the tree breaks free. The one time I got hung on a face cut I had my cutting partner cut a new face in a better part of the stem and we just started the whole felling procedure over. The danger there is tree collapse as the pressure is distributed between the original cutting and the new cutting and instead of the tree being guided by the hinge it breaks vertically between the original ctting and the new cutting and breaks off in a rather uncontroled manner.
Click to expand...

Yup, the second notch trick can be tricky under preasure. Not something you want to bank on controlling. Like you said, the end grain split between the notches will get you every time.
 
GASoline71 said:
Hey punk... nobody ever said you don't work hard. I'm sure you work your a$$ off everyday. That's a good start to a great work ethic. But you gotta give respect to get it...

Your blatant BS posts make me wanna puke sometimes. Yes my back is f'd up... No I can't pack a saw all day in the woods...but... you haven't got the balls to even pack my lunch for me.

You wanna be a part of somethin' and give advice when it is needed... then listen (read) what others are sayin'. You're young... full of pi$$ and vinegar. You think I wasn't a snot nosed loudmouth punk like you once? LMAO... you are me when I was young. I knew it all, had all the answers, none of the old farts that I worked with were gonna tell me what to do... I already knew what to do. Don't tell me my cuts suck... I'll knock you on your a$$... whatever old man... I know how to set a choke, gun the lay, rig the mountain... go F yourself...

I was humbled early on... very early on... watched a guy get crushed on a turn I was supposed to be workin'. But since I was a loudmouth pr1ck that knew better, and thought how they were workin' the turn was stupid... I was up on the landin' buckin' BS snags that were bein' yarded out to make way for a new line... A guy got killed doin' a job I was supposed to be doin'. Makes me feel great.. everday of my life... :mad:

Give the respect you want, and you will get it... until then... shut your pie hole.

Gary
Click to expand...

Tin hats off to such an excellent and meaningful post. nice Gary
 
Speaking from experience as this has happened to me a on a few occassions, I would have put a smaller front ( open face as I am from down under dont use humblodt very often) in the tree the same direction as the natural lean, (it looks like you have put in a rather large front from the photo for this size tree with a considerable lean) this does create tension on your holding wood but as a general rule if you (as the operator this wont work for everyone) start what I call a 1/4 cut method by which you start at the side of you tree cutting right back to you desired hingewood depth i.e 4 inches or 100mm for us aussies, whilst doing this insuring you leave a a strap at the back about 6 inches or 150mm wide with depth ranging from 2 inches/50mm upto 6inches/150mm depending on the severity of the lean of the tree an experienced faller will pick how much with out to much drama, do the same on the opposite side of the tree/stump making sure you leave the "strap" once these 1/4's have been sawn out you are left with an open face/front, two corners taken out and a strap, the strap is the only thing holding the tree so cutting into it hard and fast isnt the answer!! place the bar against the stump about 1-2 inches 25-50mm below your 1/4 cut height then throttle the saw allowing it cut slowly into the strap, once the lean of the tree comes into play the strap will pull or let go a secondary lot of hinge wood and fall as per normal leaving ( I wish I could draw it on a piece of paper for you all) only a stump without a bar and chain tangled up in it!!
We call this method a "Trigger" cut (you guys have most likely heard of it and I just wasted my time typing but anyways) and the other method I refered to is the 1/4 cut method which is commom here minus the strap cut because thats generally used with lean to stop the tree capping and knocking your head off or giving the tree a kick off the sttump into a breeze or a slight lean,
hope this makes sense.
cheers
fonz
 
GASoline71 said:
Hey punk... nobody ever said you don't work hard. I'm sure you work your a$$ off everyday. That's a good start to a great work ethic. But you gotta give respect to get it...

Your blatant BS posts make me wanna puke sometimes. Yes my back is f'd up... No I can't pack a saw all day in the woods...but... you haven't got the balls to even pack my lunch for me.

You wanna be a part of somethin' and give advice when it is needed... then listen (read) what others are sayin'. You're young... full of pi$$ and vinegar. You think I wasn't a snot nosed loudmouth punk like you once? LMAO... you are me when I was young. I knew it all, had all the answers, none of the old farts that I worked with were gonna tell me what to do... I already knew what to do. Don't tell me my cuts suck... I'll knock you on your a$$... whatever old man... I know how to set a choke, gun the lay, rig the mountain... go F yourself...

I was humbled early on... very early on... watched a guy get crushed on a turn I was supposed to be workin'. But since I was a loudmouth pr1ck that knew better, and thought how they were workin' the turn was stupid... I was up on the landin' buckin' BS snags that were bein' yarded out to make way for a new line... A guy got killed doin' a job I was supposed to be doin'. Makes me feel great.. everday of my life... :mad:

Give the respect you want, and you will get it... until then... shut your pie hole.

Gary
Click to expand...



Good post, sir,


Mr. HE:cool:
 
Stuff happens / staying focused

The saying ( you can,t out cut your brain ) ....Is totally true .
.
. .
. Sometimes it really pays to put the saw down and take a walk and look things over ... Especially when something just don,t (FEEL RIGHT) ... My life has been saved a number of times by lookin , lookin . lookin . . But tomorrow is another day , have to do all the right things , every day ... . .....
.
. Since I,m from Alaska ,, What is a TANOAK .. ??????????????????????
.
. They look like a pretty sorry species of tree ... .. What is all this Notches everyone is talking about .
. Sighting the first of the ( face cuts) is using the sights on the saw , or on big timber ,2 tapes work alot better . each plugged in at the edge ofthe face side of the holding wood .. run them out to exactly the same length , hold that measurement under your thumb and your thumb is like the front sight of a pistol ................ Those burned cats faced cedars will be a serious challenge to get down where they need to go ....Do you ever have to climb and rig them for pulling , or with pendelum lines ????
... Is that a 075 or an 051 ... ???????????????
 
2 Tapes

In Southeast , sometimes there isn,t anywhere to stand , so you have to use the sights on the saw ..... And for most trees the sights are suficent ... But if you can the 2 tapes really help ...
Heavy lean , limbed heavy to one side ,wind , and trees you need to rub past can screw things up , the limbs and lean can usually be solved ... If a tree has 10 ft of side lean I gun 10 ft the other way at the tree height distance ... If theres a stump ,or rock half way you need to account for it ..... the Long bars , which I hate packin around . are sure nice when falling the big ones . and even if your stumps are 40" or so a 36" bar helps you to hit your lays better than a 30 or 32 ...... If I,m in general run Chichagof Is . timber I use a 30 or 32 " bar
 
I have never used two tapes but I have used one by making a loop out towards the lay with someone's finger. One end of the tape held at the corner by the nail and the end near the case is held at the other corner by my outstretched hand. I can then sight at the finger. It isn't as easy as gunning sticks but then again I have never owned gunning sticks, just used them a time or two. I really should spend 15 minutes and make a pair.

It sure is nice to have a day off midweek. I've been in the shop sharpening chains.
 
generally out in the woods the powerhead sights work just fine for me,our stuff is generally not that tall 3 33's is about max maybe four but the old timers hauled off most of those,what that would be good for is i occasionally do a little "outlaw"tree removal on the side around houses power lines etc.and often there is only one place the tree can go and powerhead sights are a little vague for that,when i used to run huskys if i had not squished the saw i was more confident aiming with the handlebar,but my stihls i like the sights better,everyones got their own angle on the dangle...
 
Tanoak or Tanbark (Lithocarpus densiflorus) is a weed tree, what the Alder is to the coast, the Tanoak is to the mountains. They are slightly more usefull than Alders.
 

Similar threads

S
Stihl 261c automatic oiler
Replies
4
Views
356
Steven8439
S
IQRaceworks
Looking for a new saw with a 24" bar. Echo 490 or Husky 550x?
2
Replies
24
Views
1K
TAJ45
T
C
I felled a big black locust on my shed...
Replies
8
Views
804
rarefish383
rarefish383
T
logging questions
2 3
Replies
50
Views
3K
trialanderror
T
M
Advice about what saw is right for pairing with an MS462c?
Replies
6
Views
383
Marley5
Marley5

Latest posts

Back
Top