Aluminum ladder for 1st cut

[BigOakAdot]

The most useful thing about using log rails for every cut is being able to remove the twist from a previous cut which is impossible to do by just milling directly over the top of a previous twisted cut.
View attachment 442715
I've used ladders and boards but I like my Unistrut frame best of all.
Adjustable for both width and length, and it breaks down to 2 x 10ft segments so I can just fit it in my van.
Yes it's heavy and slows things down so I guess if I needed to cut a heap of board from small log I wouldn't use it.

For anyone contemplating the Unistrut route, I cut the 20ft long rails in half but If I was to do this again I would go the 2/3 - 1/3 cut.
The 10ft long segments are usually just a tad short for most of the stuff I've been cutting.
Downside is I would not be able to fit the longer segment in my van but that's what roof racks a for.

I like this uni-strut idea, Bob. Does it have holes on all four sides or
Just two opposing sides? I ask this cause in your pic it looks to me like there are no holes on top or bottom and its stabilized to the log by clamping on either side.

Is this right or are you mounting it some other way? And how do you secure it for your first cut?

 

[BobL]

I like this uni-strut idea, Bob. Does it have holes on all four sides or
Just two opposing sides? I ask this cause in your pic it looks to me like there are no holes on top or bottom and its stabilized to the log by clamping on either side.
Is this right or are you mounting it some other way? And how do you secure it for your first cut?

And here is how I use small C section bars as vertical supports on hard to start logs.
The vertical frame is lowered with successive cuts and holds one end of the Unistrut frame level
The PITA is getting the CSM out between the frames at the end of the cut.
To start with I just back out of the cut.
When the slabs are near full length I lift the Unistrut frame and CSM over the green upright frame

 

[Boon]

View attachment 443454

And here is how I use small C section bars as vertical supports on hard to start logs.
The vertical frame is lowered with successive cuts and holds one end of the Unistrut frame level
The PITA is getting the CSM out between the frames at the end of the cut.
To start with I just back out of the cut.
When the slabs are near full length I lift the Unistrut frame and CSM over the green upright frame

Bob to the rescue again thanks you have given me good pointers once more and much to think about and plan

 

[Yellowbeard]

Wow. Interesting and smart - pretty much like everything bobl seems to do... Stop being so dang clever, will you? Wait, no, I'm busy stealing ideas from you - strike that last.

 

[Rudolf73]

View attachment 443454

And here is how I use small C section bars as vertical supports on hard to start logs.
The vertical frame is lowered with successive cuts and holds one end of the Unistrut frame level
The PITA is getting the CSM out between the frames at the end of the cut.
To start with I just back out of the cut.
When the slabs are near full length I lift the Unistrut frame and CSM over the green upright frame
View attachment 443455

View attachment 443456

View attachment 443457

That looks good Bob, is there a Unistrut supplier in Oz? I haven't had much luck finding it. Cheers

 

[BobL]

That looks good Bob, is there a Unistrut supplier in Oz? I haven't had much luck finding it. Cheers

One of the largest users of Unistrut are industrial electricians so most larger electrical supplier places will stock it.
I used the HD P1000 material see http://www.unistrut.com.au/index.php?part=P1000&M1=1&M2=1&go=1

One thing about it is that in Oz its very expensive, especially if you pay full retail - if you have a friendly sparky try to get it through them as the savings are significant.

The HD stuff is heavy (but also strong) - a 20 ft length weighs around 16kg (35lb) so my full length setup (2 x 20Ft UniStr + angle iron ends + all thread) weighs ~80lbs.
There is lighter duty stuff that weights around half that of the HD stuff but it needs much more supporting especially when starting a cut.

The finish on the Unistrut is important - the first lot I bought were galvabond which is a smooth finish that the mill can slide on nicely.
Some one at the yard drove over one of the pieces with a truck and I replaced it with a hot dipped galvanised length which is much rougher and not as slippery.

 

[Rudolf73]

One of the largest users of Unistrut are industrial electricians so most larger electrical supplier places will stock it.
I used the HD P1000 material see http://www.unistrut.com.au/index.php?part=P1000&M1=1&M2=1&go=1

One thing about it is that in Oz its very expensive, especially if you pay full retail - if you have a friendly sparky try to get it through them as the savings are significant.

The HD stuff is heavy (but also strong) - a 20 ft length weighs around 16kg (35lb) so my full length setup (2 x 20Ft UniStr + angle iron ends + all thread) weighs ~80lbs.
There is lighter duty stuff that weights around half that of the HD stuff but it needs much more supporting especially when starting a cut.

The finish on the Unistrut is important - the first lot I bought were galvabond which is a smooth finish that the mill can slide on nicely.
Some one at the yard drove over one of the pieces with a truck and I replaced it with a hot dipped galvanised length which is much rougher and not as slippery.

Thanks Bob. I'll have a chat to my sparky.

 

[Boon]

View attachment 443454

And here is how I use small C section bars as vertical supports on hard to start logs.
The vertical frame is lowered with successive cuts and holds one end of the Unistrut frame level
The PITA is getting the CSM out between the frames at the end of the cut.
To start with I just back out of the cut.
When the slabs are near full length I lift the Unistrut frame and CSM over the green upright frame

Bob on a 6 - 7 meter run using your unistruts in sections where there is not enough log to support the struts how would you stop sag?

 

[BobL]

Bob on a 6 - 7 meter run using your unistruts in sections where there is not enough log to support the struts how would you stop sag?

My unistruts are cut in half so I can use a pair of 2 x 10ft (3m) lengths for short logs and I can join the 2 pairs together to make a ~5m long combination.

Sag can be reduced in a number of ways.
I have used a variety of blocks, scaffolding frames, and a pair of saw horses - check this out.
This is a boomerang shaped log uses support from a strong sawhorse and a block of wood.
Mill up to the block then angle the outboard end of the bar so it cuts the slab well past the block.
Lift the rails and slip the CSM past the block and carry on

 

[Boon]

My unistruts are cut in half so I can use a pair of 2 x 10ft (3m) lengths for short logs and I can join the 2 pairs together to make a ~5m long combination.

Sag can be reduced in a number of ways.
I have used a variety of blocks, scaffolding frames, and a pair of saw horses - check this out.
This is a boomerang shaped log uses support from a strong sawhorse and a block of wood.
Mill up to the block then angle the outboard end of the bar so it cuts the slab well past the block.
Lift the rails and slip the CSM past the block and carry on

thats got a good bend in it & nice pattern.

Ok so just pack it up using whatever so long as its stable. From the photos I don't see how you have managed to stop the struts pulling sideways when the saw goes through, specially in the mid section. ATM using the ladder I put a screw down through the rung to stop it jumping round. Would it be possible to do this with the unistrut in some way or the threaded rod? I like the idea of a stronger guide using unistrut

 

[BobL]

Ok so just pack it up using whatever so long as its stable. From the photos I don't see how you have managed to stop the struts pulling sideways when the saw goes through, specially in the mid section. ATM using the ladder I put a screw down through the rung to stop it jumping round. Would it be possible to do this with the unistrut in some way or the threaded rod? I like the idea of a stronger guide using unistrut

Yes can be a problem on these and on first cut where there is no sideways support. However the log rails are being held very firmly at both end so the sideways movement is restricted and it's not as sideways flexible as a a long ladder. On that boomerang log or similar , mostly I just take the first cut slower so the powerhead doesn't slam sideways into the unistrut. Were possible I have also put tek screws into the log for the unistrut to lean against.

95% of the time my CSM does not make any sideways contact with the log rails because the inboard legs on the CSM have wheels on them which ride on the log rather than the rails.

 

[Boon]

Yes can be a problem on these and on first cut where there is no sideways support. However the log rails are being held very firmly at both end so the sideways movement is restricted and it's not as sideways flexible as a a long ladder. On that boomerang log or similar , mostly I just take the first cut slower so the powerhead doesn't slam sideways into the unistrut. Were possible I have also put tek screws into the log for the unistrut to lean against.

95% of the time my CSM does not make any sideways contact with the log rails because the inboard legs on the CSM have wheels on them which ride on the log rather than the rails.
View attachment 444222

think I've worked out what to do - screwing through the threaded bar to stop sideways movement if needed. The long nuts supplied with the Alaskan mill can be purchased at hardware stores, if a 50mm long tag is welded into one of these with a hole big enough to fit a screw through into the log. 50 mm should be long enough, when removing the screw pressure will be needed on the tag for easy screw removal. 2 -3 spun onto the threaded bar with the rails either side can also be moved around to suit position. Provided the threaded bar is placed at the correct height on the unistrut construction, the tags should sit flush on the log ready to be used when needed.

 

[Boon]

View attachment 443454

And here is how I use small C section bars as vertical supports on hard to start logs.
The vertical frame is lowered with successive cuts and holds one end of the Unistrut frame level
The PITA is getting the CSM out between the frames at the end of the cut.
To start with I just back out of the cut.
When the slabs are near full length I lift the Unistrut frame and CSM over the green upright frame

Bob what size threaded bar are you using?

 

[BobL]

Bob what size threaded bar are you using?

3/8"