another 08S restoration

[1hander]

ive richened since then, for sure..
i need to get the piston and rings for it.. theres no scarring and i measured the cylinder for roundness and it checks out
ill see what happens when i get a piston in it..

 

[Sepia]

ive richened since then, for sure..
i need to get the piston and rings for it.. theres no scarring and i measured the cylinder for roundness and it checks out
ill see what happens when i get a piston in it..

Sounds like a good plan. Now you have me thinking about modding my Honda trimmer lol.

 

[1hander]

bhaaaahahahah go for it man ... see if you can get it thumpin like mine was LOL..

 

[1hander]

I got the soda blaster in today and I'm really pleased with outcome.. It removes surface oxidation really well.. And leaves a Matte finish.. It does not remove stains any deeper than surface.. The fan wheels are not as good as the cylinder came out.. But more than good enough for what I wanted.. I'm think about maybe trying some crushed glass but you gotta be really careful with aluminum and that stuff..
It's from Eastwood really cheap and just consists of the gun.. Extra tips and nozzle.. Hose and pickup tube.. You just put the pickup tube down into your media and go to work

 

[1hander]

I spent maybe 8 minutes per piece... They could look much better but were at the point that the soda was not really removing much more.. So if I want better I'll go to Glas.. Crushed or bead

 

[buzz sawyer]

I have used #80 glass bead on all my restos. Works very well and doesn't hurt the plating inside the cylinder. When done, I scrub the fins with a fine steel brush to give a little gloss again.

 

[1hander]

The infamous shims came I'm happy to report.. 0048 inch of sidethrust in the crank..


Next was those fiddly piston pin clips.. I used anew set of the ones with the loops.. Much easier to install and remove


The was the timing plate coil.. But first I threaded the kill switch wire and plug wire through the hole


Then installed the cylinder... Flywheel and set timing to. 090 8nch btdc.. Just a bit more than spec max.. I decided not to do any porting to the cylinder.. I'm only gonna do some matching to the manifold spacer


Put a new starter ring in the fan wheel..


At this point I was not able to get the flywheel to stop hitting the coil no matter what I did he would not stop hitting the coil legs and on this timing plate the coil is not adjustable so I committed a cardinal sin and put the flywheel in the lathe and took about six and a half thousand out of it and while I was turning it I found that the inside of it was pretty far out of round I guess would be how you would put it so after I did that I just picked all of the metal filings out by hand blew out the majority of them and then use double-sided tape to pick out the rest of the metal & dust and get it all clean then I reinstalled the flywheel everything was good put it all back together but for some reason the secondary coil or secondary winding in the coil has decided to crap the bed so that's where I'm stuck until I get a coil

 

[1hander]

Or the next saw which is the 08 I'm going to go ahead and get actually I already have some glass bead and some number 80 glass media I wanted to try them both out

 

[1hander]

Installed the new clutch and drum..



And the carb..

 

[1hander]

Ok guys lemme have it.. Im an idiot.. Ive been lookin for the no spark problem 4/3 hours which did not turn out to be the coil look at the picture and you'll notice that I forgot to install the little plastic insulating cap because I am stupid so the kill switch wire is dead shorted to the casing on the condenser, i also need to solder a loop termination to the coil ground wire. the previous owner just had it sandwiched in there

 

[1hander]

I'll bet I have spark now but I'm not willing to put my tongue on it and give it a yank though

 

[1hander]

I couldn't help it guys After figuring out what an idiot I was I kind of got a second wind and just wanted to do a little assembly
my boy helped me earlier I wanted to check the compression I use 2-stroke oil to lube it during assembly and we came up with 187 PSI I'm sure that will change but it's a bit of a bear to pull on it

 

[1hander]

, I put these severely chewed up screws into the lathe and took off just enough to clean them up but they still look like crap think I'm going to have to buy more, im also gonna have to make a due to seat the starter ring all way down

 

[1hander]

man this saw has seen some abuse every screw and nut is chewed up, the close up pics really let me see everything

 

[1hander]

I have used #80 glass bead on all my restos. Works very well and doesn't hurt the plating inside the cylinder. When done, I scrub the fins with a fine steel brush to give a little gloss again.
QUOTE]

your saw looks amazing

 

[buzz sawyer]

Looking Very nice!
I see you put the governor spring in the bottom hole but I see no governor linkage - did you install it or was it even there? When I did mine, it was in the third hole up and was really choking the engine down so I moved it so the gov had the least effect - I forget which hole that was. I set the h screw to 4 stroke with no gov tension and now the gov slows it to about 9K rpm wot out of the cut. It clears up nicely in the cut and I know it's not lean. I've read where some just eliminate the gov altogether.

 

[1hander]

I have always removed them... And used the h needle to slow em down.. I'm waiting for a tach I ordered.. I think I was running them a bit on the hotside years ago.. Lol...

I'm considering putting the governor back in just for historical accuracy sake but really don't want to..

Man I am coveting that bar on your saw.. Tell me about it

 

[buzz sawyer]

I have always removed them... And used the h needle to slow em down.. I'm waiting for a tach I ordered.. I think I was running them a bit on the hotside years ago.. Lol...

I'm considering putting the governor back in just for historical accuracy sake but really don't want to..

Man I am coveting that bar on your saw.. Tell me about it

It's the original bar with many hours on it. I cleaned it up, painted with white appliance paint and made a couple decals for it. I had no intention of cutting with after the resto, it's done enough work in it's life. You can get water slide decal paper from Amazon. I'll PM you.

 

[1hander]

my resto saws will see very little actual work, maybe cutting firewood with the 015L ..2 or 3 times a years that i actually light the fireplace or once in a while that i actually need a m,arger saw,
you never know i guess, but im getting a newer 3/8 bar and chain for actual cutting and the expensive old bars will probaby never see a cut, they are just too darn expensive.

i converted the 015L to 3/8 for that reason as well and bought a used 3/8 roller bar and chain, the NOS bar dont cut.

 

[1hander]

I tried to get it started today but it was seveelt flooding.. It turned out that the guy who rebuilt the carb last put the main needle seat in upside down and I rebuilt it the way I found it.. Which was.. wrong

And even though I adjusted the actuating lever correctly... It was not put enough down pressure on the main needle and was causing the flooding..

The extra height on the new diaphragm button was responsible for holding the lever kind of in a neutral position where no pressure was down on ghge neddle..

My son actually caught that one.. We readjusted for flush height and I stretched the metering spring just a bit to get pressure down on the needle..

Reassembled and it fired on the second pull.. Man this thing sounds punchy.. Lol.... So now it's on to figuro g out what tk do with muffler which is in bad bad shape.. Then side cover bar and chain..

I thought I had an air leak but after checking that was OK.. After that I went after the carb