Oh, I do have other saws. The 400 being one of them. It’s great for bucking, I can get it done more efficiently and save the back.
Saw sizes and progression for hardwoods
- Thread starter Richie841
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A good 50cc pro saw will do 90% of what you need, but will be under gunned on big stuff. Add a 70-80cc bigger saw.
On small end a good top handle, and a 90cc for big stuff.
On small end a good top handle, and a 90cc for big stuff.
EchoShindaiwaMakitaDolmar
ArboristSite Operative
You've had great luck with Echo already, and their pro saws (X series) are very good saws. I have a 355T (35cc top handle) and a 620p (60cc). The Echo 7310 (73cc) is also a very good saw and many say it has the best air filtration system of any chainsaw. The 620p with a 20 or 24 inch bar, and the 7310p with a 24-30 inch bar, would cover lots of scenarios.
I also have three Makita/Dolmar saws and they're great, but Makita quit the gas powered tool biz a couple years back so it's getting hard to find most of their chainsaw related stuff, but Schneider's Chainsaw.com in Washington state has a few Makita 7300 models in stock.
I also have three Makita/Dolmar saws and they're great, but Makita quit the gas powered tool biz a couple years back so it's getting hard to find most of their chainsaw related stuff, but Schneider's Chainsaw.com in Washington state has a few Makita 7300 models in stock.
Hermio
Addicted to ArboristSite
My 2-saw plan is a Stihl MS500i for almost everything, with spare bars and chains in case it gets stuck. Though I don't really need another powerhead, a Kobalt 80 volt battery saw with an 18" bar serves as a backup on occasion.
EastCoastGreg
Excuses are crap, Reasons matter.
Just curious what kind of usage times you get out of the 80v Kobalt? How big of wood do you cut with it? Do the Makitas have a torque overload shutoff? Anything you think is relevent. I like to know real world use from people who own them.
My brother just bought the 500i...... that thing is ridiculous
