Another 262XP Thread

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I have a real early (1990) 262, love it. Its a way rougher example than what yours is going to end up, but it sure loves wood!

http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/111744.htm

http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/191844.htm

As to the inconsistencies between years and ipl's, in my experience this is common to all assembly line products.

The floor supervisor does not say "from today we use only the new red widget, anyone caught using the old orange widget will be sacked on sight", its much more a case of management saying "we payed for the orange widgets already, keep using them until they are all gone". Every assembler will have a basket that runs out at different times before it is restocked with the updated part, hence the interesting mix of parts that can be found around any model/year change car/saw/dirtbike.

Just my two cents.

Adam
 
Excellent thread, and what an effort and ambitious way to rebuild, as the word means, totally awesome !
I do appreciate the way you even blast the cases and such to make all the new plastic parts, fit nicely with the fresh painted engine.

Still.....why not port the cylinder, do a well finished, gutted exhaust etc....to get all the possible power out of it, but so that the saw still is good looking, original looking "sleeper".
 
Excellent thread, and what an effort and ambitious way to rebuild, as the word means, totally awesome !
I do appreciate the way you even blast the cases and such to make all the new plastic parts, fit nicely with the fresh painted engine.

Still.....why not port the cylinder, do a well finished, gutted exhaust etc....to get all the possible power out of it, but so that the saw still is good looking, original looking "sleeper".

I actually did do a muffler mod already, just haven't posted pictures of it yet. From what I've read, the 262 is pretty much ported to the max from the factory and I don't want to pay $250 to get a little power that I won't really appreciate cutting 12" and smaller birch. I do plan on reducing the squish to as close to .02" as I can. I have the solder and some really thin gasket material ready. Just need to get the time to put it all back together. My paint is almost done so it shouldn't be long now.
 
Sorry for asking but whats the solder for ? for trying the squish thickness ?

Inany case, i do respect your way to do rebuilding, indeed.
 
Yep, the solder is for checking the squish. There are tons of good articles and pages on the web detailing the finer points of the procedure. When I get mine that far along I'll post pictures of how I did it.

I was on vacation for a while there, but the paint is done now. It's been drying for about a week so I think it's ready to start reassembling. Now I just need to remember the order... :msp_confused: Luckily I have lots of pictures to remind me.

Here's my paint job. Definitely not pro-quality but for rattle cans on a 2 decade old chainsaw, I'll take it.

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major step up

I actually did do a muffler mod already, just haven't posted pictures of it yet. From what I've read, the 262 is pretty much ported to the max from the factory and I don't want to pay $250 to get a little power that I won't really appreciate cutting 12" and smaller birch. I do plan on reducing the squish to as close to .02" as I can. I have the solder and some really thin gasket material ready. Just need to get the time to put it all back together. My paint is almost done so it shouldn't be long now.
Randy(Mastermind ) ported a 262 for me about 6 months ago.I had another stock 262 to compare it to on it's return.The difference in performance is 35-45% reduction in cutting times.The bigger the wood ,the more difference between the 2 saws.In the past, I found 4 cube saws didn't fit the bill for my type of cutting.
Since Randy's porting work on the 262,it's my go to saw.That saw rocks now.After 40 years of swinging 5-6 cube saws the old body likes the new "Hot Rod".My 2 pennys worth.Best money I've spent in a while.Gary
 
Finally some forward progress

Decided to bring all the parts in the house so I can work on it throughout the day since I work from home.

Crank bearings installed
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Pulling bar studs through case
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Top view
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Side
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Gasket, oil vent and gas line grommet installed and halves pulled together
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Seals installed (and new paint destroyed by oven heat :msp_mad:)
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Oiler gear installed
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Checking squish without base gasket
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A little tight
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Thickness of gasket by itself! Won't be using this one
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Made a gasket out of normal printer paper that measures .005. Will spray with Copper-Cote before I install. Not sure how much the spray will add to thickness, but whatever it is is better than the stock gasket.
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Checking squish without base gasket


Thickness of gasket by itself! Won't be using this one
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Made a gasket out of normal printer paper that measures .005. Will spray with Copper-Cote before I install. Not sure how much the spray will add to thickness, but whatever it is is better than the stock gasket.
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Just tryin' to help...:)
An aluminum beer can makes a tougher gasket than the paper, it won't compress over time as well (although compression in 5 thousandths paper will be minimal), they range in the 4 to 5 thousandths area like the paper does. The aluminum gasket can be cut with regular scissors and a utility knife too.
 
Dang, now you tell me! I have two of those paper gaskets made now, both copper coated. I was going to stack them for insurance. If I go with the beer can should I spray it too or use some yamabond?
 
I use moto-seal for the aluminum base gaskets, I stay away from the silicone based sealers as they aren't very fuel resistant. I don't know too much on copper coat, I guess it comes in a spray can or as a tube of silicone based sealer?
I hear threebond and dirko are fuel resistant too, but I've never used them.
 
I use moto-seal for the aluminum base gaskets, I stay away from the silicone based sealers as they aren't very fuel resistant. I don't know too much on copper coat, I guess it comes in a spray can or as a tube of silicone based sealer?
I hear threebond and dirko are fuel resistant too, but I've never used them.

Yep it comes in spray cans. Looks like copper spray paint but is thicker and stays sticky. I sprayed my paper gasket a few days ago and it's still sticky. I think I'm going to stack them and see how it goes. Even if they compress a little bit, with two stacked I'll have a few thousands of leeway.

Here's a link to what I'm using: Permatex Copper Spray-A-Gasket

Now if I could just find that black plastic piece that goes under the flywheel I could put this thing back together. :msp_mad:
 
I've made some progress on the reassembly over the last few days. Still missing the black plastic piece that goes under the flywheel so I had to order a new one. Also ordered a few other parts I think could be replaced but overall it's getting there.

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The third picture shows my first attempt at a muffler mod. The electrical tape over the throttle safety lever is because the lever is broken and won't stay in the handle. I got a new fuel tank vent, fuel line and filter installed too. I ordered a new little rubber nut that goes on the chain tensioner bolt since mine broke and I have a new dog to add to the right side for a dual setup. I'll have to shorten it a little as I've seen in other threads though since it's longer than the inside dog. I still have to install a carb kit and replace the spark plug boot since I trashed mine. Just hope the wire isn't too short because I'd hate to have to buy another coil.
The paint didn't turn out like a few of you knew it would but I'm still happy with it. If I do it again I'll have it powder coated I think.

Thanks for the continued responses!
 
Just for reference, this is the black plastic piece I'm missing. It goes on the crankcase behind the flywheel and has 2 screws that hold it in. I have no idea where it went...damn saw gnomes. Anyone know what it's actually called and/or used for?

<table style="width:auto;"><tr><td><a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/RxnxAXTeZVMn1w7KGg_Ic9MTjNZETYmyPJy0liipFm0?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-RAekOQGPJ34/T9j941Pbn9I/AAAAAAAAE_E/9jWjX9_2DoQ/s800/missing%2520part.JPG" height="211" width="288" /></a></td></tr><tr><td style="font-family:arial,sans-serif; font-size:11px; text-align:right">From <a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/mark.dellaquila1/Husky262xp?authuser=0&feat=embedwebsite">Husky 262xp</a></td></tr></table>
 
Nice job on the saw thus far. I like 262's.

Here is some 262 eye candy for ya. My all original one.

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Nice job on the saw thus far. I like 262's.

Here is some 262 eye candy for ya. My all original one.

Nice! Mine is far from original but I'm using all OEM parts so hopefully it comes out looking as nice as yours. My chainbrake/clutch cover isn't the prettiest but I may try sanding/clear coat to see if that helps bring some shine back.
 
Just for reference, this is the black plastic piece I'm missing. It goes on the crankcase behind the flywheel and has 2 screws that hold it in. I have no idea where it went...damn saw gnomes. Anyone know what it's actually called and/or used for?

I know that it has two small holes that serve as the placement holes for the pins on one side of the air injection plastic duct that guides the clean air to the carb area. Beyond that use, I have no clue.
 
has anyone tried to stuff the 272 c&p in to 262 ?
They have different stroke though, i think....

A fellow, who works in chainsaw industry, stopped by at the shop today, and we got in to small chat about competition saws and i think he suggested to mix those....

but aint it hard to find a 262xp.... i noticed that theyre all gone from auctions etc.
 
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