orphaned Power Mac 380 - what to do with it ? is it worth trying to get it running ?

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JB Weld was readily at hand at advance (and found out they now carry griot's garage stuff as well -
as a nice surprise not to always have to mail order detailing supplies).

so i followed the folks that were nice enough to chime in and cleaned the heck out of it.
Degreaser, sandpaper, clean, degrease, clean.
after working the JB weld into the crack with a toothpick and making the best
of the JB weld, i used the vise grip to just gently pull the crack closed and will leave it sitting like this for a day or two.
I just hope that my ugly bead will not interfere with the gasket and everything goes together without me having to
grind of the JB weld again - it is pretty tight in the lowest spot.

it will not be pretty - but like i said - i HAVE to cut one log with the darn thing ! :D

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which brings me back to the next step once it is all cured - how does the oil pump go back together ?
i cannot see how that thing is driven yet - i know there is a worm drive on the back of the "chain axis"
somewhere but have not figured out how that is transferred to driving the oil pump yet.

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what is inside the pump normally ?

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anyone see anything out of the ordinary here ?

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nothing out of the ordinary for one of these:givebeer:
the oiler is driven by an impulse port from the crank. it "beats" away at that diaphragm. the little rod on the diaphragm acts like a piston in a cylinder moving back and forth. pulling oil from the tank through one circut with a check valve to stop it from being pushed back when the 'piston' reverses direction. when it moves 'in', it pushes oil out to the bar pad. when it moves 'out', it pulls oil from the tank.
one check valve to stop the oil going back in the tank, and one to stop the oil from being pulled from the bar pad on the 'intake' stroke.
 
The ball is not spring loaded. It just sits in that little indentation.
Fell out when I first opened it and i got lucky since it fell right in my shoe.

So the pump functions on the actual b&c oil itself? no additional liquid behind it? since what came out was more like black soupy water. Should I prime that all with oil when I put it back together or
just clean and assemble dry?

While I am at it I will permatex the gaskets as well....

Thanks for all the replies !
 
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thanks! couldn't remember if it was just sitting there or if it was held in place over top a spring.

be very carefull with the sealant when putting the oil pump back in. you do not want to plug any of the holes or ports otherwise there won't be any oil for you.
also, the pump is sort of pressed between the metal plate (bottom cover) and the case inside the oil tank. you have to make absolutly sure the pump is tight between them or you'll have a saw that is sucking oil into the engine, or again, no oil for you.
it's been a long time since i did any fixing on one of these, but i remember whenever we had the oiler out for whatever reason, we changed the cover gasket and the end seal. every time.

oh yeah, just a little oil on the shaft and put it together. it will self prime.
 
I can see why you always replaced them.
It is a weird setup with it sandwiched like that.

However both the gasket and end seal are almost unobtainable.
Hence why I will try permatex.

On the droid otherwise I would post image, but if u go through my picasa web album you will see a
Weird hole with the same type of ball "glued" to it.

It is almost like it is supposed to be that way, but no clue....

Any chance u remember anything like that ?
 
I can see why you always replaced them.
It is a weird setup with it sandwiched like that.

However both the gasket and end seal are almost unobtainable.
Hence why I will try permatex.

On the droid otherwise I would post image, but if u go through my picasa web album you will see a
Weird hole with the same type of ball "glued" to it.

It is almost like it is supposed to be that way, but no clue....

Any chance u remember anything like that ?

in the pump housing? yeah it's the other end of a circut they needed to drill all the way through.
 
Ah, ok, makes sense.

So everything seems perfect.
Just need to know if it is ok to put everything back together dry.

Again thanks for the help!
 
so far the JB weld seems to be doing the trick.
i filled the oil tank half way and have been leaving it sitting on the side.
so far not one drop.
but have not tested running yet - and there is the next problem.

now i cannot seem to be getting it run anymore.

i am following the Tillotson HU service manual that was linked to before here and it says
to back out Low and High set screws one turn which i have down.
but the Power Mac i have has an additional IDLE set screw that seems to
control throttle shutter and Idle Fuel - any chance someone know what that should be set at ?

thanks !
 

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