Antique saw thread

Wesspur
Rugged made
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Glad it runs and cuts good for you Ed. Funny, I dont recall a problem with the oiler on that saw but then again, I only.got it running and made 4 or 5 cuts with it, didn't even put a tank through it.

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I think I got the oiler issue resolved.I had to take the spring off the AP42 plunger & put it on the Comango plunger & I couldn't tighten it all the way down & it's working much better.I found a replacement plunger on Feebay & bought it to put in the AP42.
Another Homelite part that works on the Lombard saws is the pawl springs.The AP42 was missing one & I thought I'd at least try it.It works just fine.
The AP42 I bought needs a little work,but contrary to the seller's idea that the saw was a parts saw only is off the table.He said it had no spark,it turned out the switch is bad.He said the plug hole threads in the cylinder were messed up,they're just fine.He didn't lie when he said it didn't have a muffler & a screw was broken off in one of the bosses.That will be my biggest challenge on the saw,removing that broken screw.I don't think it was broken because of over-tightening.One of the ears for the front screw is broken right off the saw.If worse comes to worse & I can't get the broken screw out I can always put a stack muffler on it.
 
I bought a Super Comango about a week ago & it didn't have any spark.I just got around to working on it today.I had to clean the points & I didn't even mess with the condenser,I put a new one on it for a Homie SXL.It has great spark now & it ran on a prime.
Ed
 
I got the Super Comango running today.It didn't really take much to get it going.I just had to put a new fuel line on from the carb to the elbow by the tank & a new fuel filter & one prime & it was running.It needs a new recoil spring,I can't keep any tension on the rope.It also needs a new check valve for the auto oiler,when I fired it up it was like a mosquito fogger with all that old residual oil in the cylinder.Lol
Ed
 
Hi All
When working on modern saws,pressure/vacuum test is so important when rebuilding or assessing an unknown saw.Pull the muffler,wiggle the bearings,block off carb and exhaust and vac test...
Now with the antique saws with the swivel handles for the pre diaphragm carbs,how important is the vacuum test?
I have a 26LCS Homelite tore down to the block and decided to do a Vac/pressure test.The flywheel seal was leaking.I am trying some concentrated oil seal conditioner from Rislone to see if it brings it back.
I am thinking that the swivel on these old saws will leak now,were they ever tight from the factory or did the massively inefficient carbs of that era dump enough of the 16:1 mix into the saws where they never had a chance of leaning out.
Thoughts,Theory's ?
Thanks Thomas
 
A friend of mine went to northern California where he has a few acres recently. On his property was a shed and some evidence there was a house on it at one time. Near the house in a shed that was rotting away inside was an old saw. Dated in the middle thirties with a one hundred serial number. The bar on it was about four feet long. It had two cylinders and was missing the exhaust cage. The top ignition cover was missing, but every thing else was there. It looked like if it was carefully cleaned up it could run. My friend gave it to me to evaluate. I told him I would not try to fix it repair it in any way and if he wanted to sell it he should do it himself. I was a twelve horse model twin cylinder. It was interesting though. It looked very similar to picture. The chain did not have regular teeth. Thanks
 

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I'm really liking these old Lombards! I bought an AP42 last week & got it yesterday.It didn't take much to get it running.The plug had no air gap to it.I put a different plug in it & had good spark,then I put a prime in it & it fired up.I put fuel in the tank & within 2 pulls it was running.I put a 20 in.bar & chain on it & readjusted the carb as it was too rich & cut down on the idle & it runs like a dream.I can't wait to take it out cutting.thumbnail.jpg

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I bought a Lombard Super Comango a couple of weeks ago.All it needed was clean the points & set the gap & replace the fuel line from the carb to the elbow & it runs damn nice.The only thing is it has an auto oiler & it's sucking bar oil into the cylinder & smoking like crazy.Is there any way to eliminate the auto oiler & just use the manual oiler?
Ed
 
PogoInTheWoods said:
If you would go to the trouble of defeating the auto oiler function (if even possible without affecting the manual oiler), why not just fix it instead?
Click to expand...
I'd fix it if I knew how.If it's anything like the pressurized oilers on Remington saws you have to tear the saw half apart to put a stinking little duck bill in a hidden spot & make new gaskets in the process.At least the Remington saw I could disable the auto oiler without affecting the manual oiler.The pressurized oil system was the worst one ever thought of.
Ed
 
Lombard auto oiler check fix:

Find the hard line from the crankcase down to a 90 degree El on the oil tank. Right side.

That El is your check valve. Remove it and pull out the brass sleeve. Replace the black goo (it was a duckbill at one time) and put in a new Homelite or Poulan duckbill.

A self tapping screw or a machine screw tap make a good removal tool for the brass sleeve.
 
Thanks Carl! I've got another problem - I lost the linkage that goes from the carb to the oiler linkage in the air box.Will the oiler still work?It's still smoking like hell.Lol
Ed
 

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