Antique saw thread

[smcnally]

Stripped and ready for sanding/priming. The cover has a lot of pits in it from, what looks like, poor molding. Going to sand it as smooth as I can and use some body filler for the small pits left behind.

 

[rocketnorton]

painted this, left cast flaws.

above start grip

 

[Sty57]

This is my first attempt at restoring a saw. It's a work in progress, as I don't get a lot of free time.

 

[Sty57]

 

[blk05crew]

Looks great Brian!

 

[rocketnorton]

Looks great Brian!

does so.

 

[Sty57]

Thanks guys.

 

[pioneerguy600]

Nothing sweeter than a fresh coat of paint on an all magnesium saw!

 

[smcnally]

More pics of my Lombard 34 in progress. Got the rest of the saw stripped of paint and cleaned today.

 

[smcnally]

Forgot to put up the picture of the tank. Fixed a picture hole and dent on the top of this as well. Still need to get the rust scale out of it and treat the inside of the tank.

Everything will be primed and painted (hopefully) this week, and then I'll wait for the decals to come to clear coat.

Oh...I forgot to mention that I scored a NOS clutch assembly on eBay last week for $15 too [emoji3]

 

[peter92]

Hi Guys
Noticed oil leaking from the solder on my fuel/oil tank and wondering how i should go about fixing it
I may have pulled the clamp down a bit tight and caused it to leak
where that top piece is in the middle is where im talking about
Any help on this would be great please
Regards Peter

 

[smcnally]

If it's leaking from the seam then I would sand the tank down, degrease it, rinse the inside/let it dry out, and then solder the entire seam. When I was a heavy equipment mechanic, we used to braze leaks, but I think solder would be easier to work with and would be fine for a small tank like this. You'll need to make sure you use solder designed for use with steel though.

 

[peter92]

If it's leaking from the seam then I would sand the tank down, degrease it, rinse the inside/let it dry out, and then solder the entire seam. When I was a heavy equipment mechanic, we used to braze leaks, but I think solder would be easier to work with and would be fine for a small tank like this. You'll need to make sure you use solder designed for use with steel though.

Thanks For the info on that,
Would it be best to braze it as it might be stronger and not leak again
What about the fuel tank side, if i put a flame near that it will go bang,
what can i do there
Peter

 

[smcnally]

Brazing is stronger, but it requires higher heat. Either way you go, I would recommend draining, flushing , and airing out both sides of the tank. Gas fumes would definitely go "bang"

 

[peter92]

Brazing is stronger, but it requires higher heat. Either way you go, I would recommend draining, flushing , and airing out both sides of the tank. Gas fumes would definitely go "bang"

any ideas on what to flush the tank out with
Peter

 

[67L36Driver]

Take it to a radiator shop. One that repairs regular copper core radiators.

 

[peter92]

Take it to a radiator shop. One that repairs regular copper core radiators.

Thanks Phil never thought of that
peter

 

[smcnally]

any ideas on what to flush the tank out with
Peter

Any type of degreaser and then follow it with hot water. You just need to make sure it's bone dry before putting oil and fuel back into it. You can dry it out by putting it in an an oven at a low setting. I just degreased and cleaned my whole saw and then threw it in the dishwasher on a hot water and heated dry cycle, and it came out great. Just follow that up with another cycle (with the dishwasher empty) with bleach...unless you want to piss if your wife

 

[smcnally]

Since I'm here...here's pictures of the first coat of paint on my Lombard. Just got it pinged before the rain came and its drying inside now.

 

[smcnally]

Loose fit of the parts. Still need to wait for decals to come and final clear coat before final assembly. It's looking awesome though!