Any thoughts on this felling job

[Garfield]

This is an elm I am bidding to fell. It was dark when i looked at it with the customer. I told him I would come back to look at it in the daylight before giving him a bid. I told him depending on how it looks in the daylight we may have to piece it down. What would you charge?? It's a pretty clear shot in the back to fell it and he will clean up everything. I am guessing it to be 45 inches dbh. I suppose i could wedge it but I was thinking it may be worth it to hook the winch to it just in case. He says it had leaves on it in the spring of this year. What to check for etc. any thoughts appreciated.

 

[Nailsbeats]

Ah yeah, where is it again? Didn't have pictures when I looked.

 

[Garfield]

in a backyard where I can drive a truck.

Kansas City if thats what you meant. I just edited the post and added two poor pictures. Still figuring that out. Thanks

 

[tomtrees58]

are you climbing it tom trees

 

[Bigus Termitius]

Typical rope, cut, and go?

Let me get out the old calculator here....let's see..

..ah ha...got it.

$4356.74

Wait that can't be right!

 

[appalachianarbo]

Looks like it has a lean towards the buildings. I'd put a rope in it, but I'd choose more than one leader to tie to. I'd probably put the job at 2 hours, even though it's just a drop and leave, because you may have to end up climbing it to set the lines you want.

 

[Garfield]

reclarify...

I am hoping to literally fell the whole tree in one shot. Unless of course the "wise men", tell me otherwise.

 

[murphy4trees]

can you drop it

Elm hinges well... even if it is dead... looks like he's telling the truth about it having leaves last spring..
SO if there is room and you are comfortable falling it, charge him as much as you think you can get for the job... I'd start at $500 and let him work the number down a little if necessary.

Once you've made the deal with him, let him know that you are about to make it look easy... But the skill it takes to drop that tree safely is not easily come by and you are taking responsibility should something go wrong...

Set a high pull line and cut a clean notch..

I dropped 2 dry sycamores last year for $975... the first was notch and drop in the woods, the other had a hard backlean over a road, fence and wires...

I dropped the first and then used the downed tree as a ground anchor to redirect the pull line for the second tree. Used a 4x4 F150 to do the pulling. I went a little conservative on the second tree, resetting the pull line or something. I remember thinking I could have been out of there in an hour, but it took close to two hours cause there was some little problem... forget the details...

And I know I was the low bid on that job!

 

[Garfield]

What if it's hollow??

how do i know if it's hollow? Guess I can bore in with the saw and tell.

 

[Nailsbeats]

Climb it, set a line 2/3 up in a good strong place. I like to pull from the far side of the tree as to not rip a crotch open. You can set 2 lines pulling from different points if you want a safety factor. Take a maul and pound the tree to see if it's hollow, not very common on an Elm in this condition (bark still on). Pretension your line a little, start your backcut, check the cut as a second trunk condition check. Set 2 or three wedges in the backcut, cut up to a safe hinge thickness (5" or so on this tree) hit the wedges as they allow, follow through the cut and pull as you go to finnish. I use big steel splitting wedges on trees like this, just don't rack them as hard as you can with a 10 pounder.

That tree will have a lot of strength aside from a center defect, I would do if the bark was completely off for a year, in fact I have one just like it I have to pull off a house. Hope this helps.

 

[Garfield]

winch or wedge

I have a winch that will pull it over. Should I still use wedges to fell it with the winch as a safety or vice versa. Thanks for your help

 

[Jlarnard]

I have seen some nutty guys who would notch anything. If there is as little as 1% chance of a big goof, put a rope in it. I'm pretty good with a throw line, so I can sometimes avoid a climb. Don't put the rope in a leader on the notch side, get the rope on a back side branch. I often find myself thinking why did I go to all that trouble. But I have never made an insurance claim.
Don't get me wrong I have had oppps's but all were small enough to cover out of the paycheck Just be smart and do what you feel comfy with. If your unsure, listen to that.
$400.00 here if you don't climb it. $525 if you do.
Good luck

 

[Rftreeman]

I would put a rope in it but go around several leaders to ensure that I don't split out then put some light tension on the rope with my 4 pulley block & tackle set (hooked to my 1 ton truck) and tie it off, now cut the notch out and then as much tension as possible on the rope and tie it off again and now start making the back cut and have someone keep tension on the rope by moving the truck as the tree comes over, works like a charm ever time.....

oh, as for a price on that tree, probably $200 to $300 depending on difficulty & time............

 

[clearance]

If you put the rope around many leaders, do not use a running bowline. Or any other kind of choker.

 

[Nailsbeats]

I have a winch that will pull it over. Should I still use wedges to fell it with the winch as a safety or vice versa. Thanks for your help

Use wedges as a safety to keep the kerf open (the winch will finnish the pull), use at least 2, I would use 3, 1 centered and 2 a little on each side, tap the center 1 then the outside 2 in sequence untill they tension up. Do this when you get the saw in far enough to allow, snug the wedges up again when you are at a 5" or so hinge, then cut to 3"-4" hinge, it should lift a little as the pretension comes out of the rope and go with it. This stuff has a mean hinge so I would recommend staying in the cut for a while as it goes, it will like to tear if you let it. No spot for a rookie, but if you understand what I am saying you should have no problem.

 

[clearance]

You can also put a decent chain above the undercut to prevent it from chairing. After you put in the undercut.

 

[Nailsbeats]

If you put the rope around many leaders, do not use a running bowline. Or any other kind of choker.

This is great advice, that's why I recommend 2 ropes on 2 separate strong leads pulling at the same time. If you choke the leads you add a lot of tension to the system, if something lets go now you have slack at the moment of truth, she'll rock on ya, break the hinge and go over the side or wherever it wants. Excellent point Clearance.

Take the time to set up right, charge accordingly, and pull it off without a hitch.

 

[Nailsbeats]

You can also put a decent chain above the undercut to prevent it from chairing. After you put in the undercut.

Another excellent failsafe, just stay the heck away from that chain at the moment of truth. I would cut as low as comfortable without being in the root flare and keep my head below the chain. If you get in the habit of using a chain, beware of placement and how that chain will react when the tree lands, if on a preasure point it could let loose like an explosion. Make sure you wear a hardhat.

 

[Jlarnard]

Man I hear some good wisdom from this thread?
Not to take it over or anything.
I have never tried to pull a tree that made me uncomfortable
puting the rope in a single lead. But when I run across this someday
I will remember this thread.
Thanks guys

 

[Garfield]

Great advice...

Thanks for the advice. I will price it at 450 on Monday and see what happens......