Any tricks to cutting stumps?

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Not sure if this is the right place to ask...

I have a bunch of stumps left from felling trees and they are in my way. I usually cut them off about ground level, but that is a pita. Any tips or tricks from the pros to make it a little easier? Thanks

How many stumps are there? On every stump add one bikini clad hottie. (make sure all stump pull is removed for the hottie's comfort) Call up all your pards and have the richest one pick up keg of your favorite brew and mull the situation over. Before the keg is drained your drunken pardners will have chased off the hotties and cut your stumps off too fuel the fire................yeah.........its that easy!
 
How many stumps are there? On every stump add one bikini clad hottie. (make sure all stump pull is removed for the hottie's comfort) Call up all your pards and have the richest one pick up keg of your favorite brew and mull the situation over. Before the keg is drained your drunken pardners will have chased off the hotties and cut your stumps off too fuel the fire................yeah.........its that easy!

I admit your plot has it's virtue. But a weak point is that bikini hottie. I mean, I wouldn't expose my wife, or any decent female I know to a drunken bunch of loggers who have schwetted all in week in the bush.

Maybe you could invest few bucks and buy them few rounds in a local notorious boozer before hitting the stumps. I think after that your uncle Earl, stuffed into an army surplus bikini would do. He probably wouldn't mind either.
 
Stump Removal for elitest arborists!

I am truly shocked all you geniuses haven't tried doubling down with your chainsaw file...?... I hear it works well and even if it takes you 30hrs or so, at least you wont have to call one of US! :msp_confused::hmm3grin2orange::bang: ha ha you guys kill me!
 
I saw a tip somewhere, can't remember where, to bore in and go around but leave some outer corners or buttress roots uncut to hold it up, then nip those later to finish. I haven't had any reason to try it yet, just wondered if anyone ever does this and if it works or no.
 
I saw a tip somewhere, can't remember where, to bore in and go around but leave some outer corners or buttress roots uncut to hold it up, then nip those later to finish. I haven't had any reason to try it yet, just wondered if anyone ever does this and if it works or no.

Sounds similar to a bore-wing cut I've used. Bore the center, then cut from the outside about 1/2" above the bore and about 1/4" from the bore. This eliminates the need for wedges and the stump will break off easily. Then just slice off the wings.
 
Cut 'em low, toss an old centerless rim on them, fill with cheap charcoal and start a fire.
They burn sub flush in a day or so.

Stay safe!
Dingeryote

Seen this done several time's


Or you could use J.J. Walker ("Kid Dynamite") :)
 
??? Why is cutting a tree of any reasonable diameter that much harder at ground level then at waist level?

I mean, other than the obvious diameter increase, I think its easier, I take a knee and relax when cutting them off at ground level.
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Just bore the bar in it and walk around it, cut from the inside out and you don't have to worry about dirt or rocks, because you are pulling the chip out, not shoving them in. I just stick the bar in and walk around them. Take a knee and relax while making beautiful low stumps that are easier to drive over for the skidder or dozer without tearing the undercarriage out. Plus it gives the skidder drivers more options of where they can go, as appose to leaving waist high stumps all over the place that look horrible, like you don't care what the place looks like when you are done. When I log, I try to leave the place looking like it was never "logged", that means cut the stump low so its hard to see and cut the top down so it rots faster and it out of sight quicker. You will find this mentality will lead to an increase in jobs because most every landowner hates what their place looks like after most logging has taken place, because they typically leave tops everywhere and the stumps are eye sores for the next 10 years. If you are going to cut the tree down, then cut it low enough that its gone when you cut it, otherwise you have left the most annoying part of it, the stump, as it still takes up the same foot print as before, with the stump, but you have noting of beauty to look at because the tree is gone, just poor taste I think.

But thats how a lot of loggers think ............ I just heard one say, "We're not landscapers." ....... LOL, this was shortly after he was complaining about not enough logging work around or that nobody wanted to have their place logged anymore ........ some people can't put two and two, together.

Not sure if you can see it in these photos, but you will get the idea. If you bore in and tip your bar down into the center and walk around them, you can actually cut one off at ground level on the outside edge, but the center will be below the ground, to the point, that you could fill the stump over with dirt and possibly never even see it afterwards. This stump is not cut at ground level, but you can sorta see the bowled shape to it. Thats a 066 with a 28" bar for comparison, that was as low as I could go and still missed cutting the center 4" or so.
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Sam

My, my Sam,
That sure is some nice purdy flat ground you're cuttin' them low stumps on.
Can ya do that on a slope over 50%?

Andy
 
My, my Sam,
That sure is some nice purdy flat ground you're cuttin' them low stumps on.
Can ya do that on a slope over 50%?

Andy

Yep, no problem, you just adjust the plane of the cut to the slope that you are on, its not really rocket scientistry.

Oh and not that I care from a pride point of view, but just so you know, I've worked on slopes just as steep as anyone in SouthWest Wisconsin, so you can get off your high horse. I present photos as proof of what I'm saying and doing, not to brag about slope angle or how long of a bar I have on my saw, LOL, I don't have a good bowl cut stump photo because I don't have any photos of yard trees that I have cut with a nice deep bowl in them that you could fill with dirt and mow right over when the grass came up, but that big red oak was the best one I had to give some idea of what I was talking about, when it comes to cutting the stump off with a dish in it.

Sam
 
Here's fairly normal ground for out here. I can't find my picture of where they intentionally left HIGH stumps to try to keep the logs from rolling down to the creek. Super low stumps are a non-issue when on steep yarder or helicopter ground.

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They don't have to be a big deal with normal skidder logging either, but if a guy asks about cutting low stumps, and I happen to do a lot of low stump cutting of high grade white oak logs, and have some photos of them, I didn't think it was that big of a deal to post them, but then those that live on taller hills, like to look down their noses and then on down their slopes at the rest of us, LOL, and if they can't find anything else to bleat about, then they bring up these geographical differences, as if a flatlander couldn't cut it if living on taller hills. My point is I log roughly where I live or at least within a 10-15 hour drive from home. Its not that I can't cut in steep hills, its that I don't have to.

I was unware that the OP was asking about cutting short stumps on 50% slopes, but then I read it kinda quickly, I also don't think higher stumps on steep ground is as big of a problem, because nobody is driving or walking around them as much in everyday situations ....... only the cutter and the choker setters, after that nobody apparently cares what some 50% hillside or mountain side looks like from ground level. When a guy owns 100 acres and I'm cutting 40 acres of timber off of it, low/er stumps will make it sure look a lot nicer and eaiser to work around, than some hack that comes in and whacks em at waist high.

Sam
 
Actually, the loggers on that ground did care how it looked, and it looks great. Most take pride in not banging up the leave trees. The brush--ferns and salal will grow and most folks won't have the foggiest idea that it was "logged." The unit shown in the picture borders a very busy road.

I'm not trying to play one-upsmanship, but when steep ground and low stumps were mentioned, well, the two usually don't go together. :cheers: The stumps aren't high, unless they need them to hold logs on the hill, but an extra effort to get them at ground level or destroy the stumps is a moot point. I'm not sure that some of the folks who read posts in this forum understand that. They do need to not make high stumps in the corridors--paths where logs are skidded up the hill. But if that happens a saw gets sent down to the rigging crew and it is taken care of.

I loved working around skyline logging. It takes some engineering to figure out how to make it work, and I found it to seldom be boring. It is also, when done properly, easier on the ground than skidder logging. Not superior, just easier on the ground here, and nicer looking than even shovel logging. Besides that, the whistles are very cheery to hear. :msp_smile:
 
??? Why is cutting a tree of any reasonable diameter that much harder at ground level then at waist level?
I mean, other than the obvious diameter increase, I think its easier, I take a knee and relax when cutting them off at ground level.

Slamm,

Your level stumps looks very finished, but your technique raises a couple of questions.

- Taking a knee when cutting a tree makes it kind of hard to run when it starts to fall, doesn't it?

- I don't see any wedges cut.

Am I missing something in your description?

It looks like your bowl-bore cut might be a good way to lessen a stump after cutting, but seems very contrary to conventional falling techniques. Any additional info would be appreciated.

Thanks.

Philbert
 
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