Any tricks to cutting stumps?

[Slamm]

Slamm,

Your level stumps looks very finished, but your technique raises a couple of questions.

- Taking a knee when cutting a tree makes it kind of hard to run when it starts to fall, doesn't it?

- I don't see any wedges cut.

Am I missing something in your description?

It looks like your bowl-bore cut might be a good way to lessen a stump after cutting, but seems very contrary to conventional falling techniques. Any additional info would be appreciated.

Thanks.

Philbert

Most of the trees I cut don't go over until I want them to go over, and I know when to not take a knee at those times. When you have a big tree and it takes some time to hog around the thing, its not going anywhere for awhile, no point in using energy needlessly.

As to wedges cut, I assume you mean notching or facing those trees and yes they all where, I just use a very shallow face cut, because making a deep face cut on a tree that is already leaning where you want it to go is just double cutting the same wood and pointless in many cases. Deep face cuts give you direction control, and you don't need directional control if it already wants to go where you want it to fall, so again why cut two kerfs, when one will do just as good and faster with less effort.

Please understand that I'm just showing something that can be done to limit the height of a stump, I would not neccesarily "bowl cut" production trees in the woods, but cutting a good low stump isn't any harder than cutting a waist high stump and it sure looks a lot better, as you have indicated. The OP was asking how to more easily cut low stumps, I assumed he was talking about a low production setting, and I was just trying to show and explain a method of cutting a stump that doesn't rock the chain out and yet still makes for the lowest stump that can be had with a chainsaw, add a shovel and get even lower.

Then someone that lives on a higher hill than me started drooling over our flat ground and wanted to know if I could do that on a 50% slope, LOL.

Sam

 

[Slamm]

"Waist High Hack" a new moniker perhaps?

LOL, when we see high stumps around here, they are usually grouped with the sloping back cut and it all gets named "Farmer cut".

Sam

 

[redprospector]

Yep, no problem, you just adjust the plane of the cut to the slope that you are on, its not really rocket scientistry.

Oh and not that I care from a pride point of view, but just so you know, I've worked on slopes just as steep as anyone in SouthWest Wisconsin, so you can get off your high horse. I present photos as proof of what I'm saying and doing, not to brag about slope angle or how long of a bar I have on my saw, LOL, I don't have a good bowl cut stump photo because I don't have any photos of yard trees that I have cut with a nice deep bowl in them that you could fill with dirt and mow right over when the grass came up, but that big red oak was the best one I had to give some idea of what I was talking about, when it comes to cutting the stump off with a dish in it.

Sam

Wow Sam,
I didn't mean to poke you in the eye when I asked that.
I'm not looking down my nose at anyone, just pointing out that what works in one situation may not be a good option in another.
You said that cutting a tree at ground level isn't any harder than at waist level, and I was just pointing out a different scinario. I didn't mean for you to get all butt-hurt over it.
Besides that, if you adjust the plane of the cut to the slope you're on, wouldn't that make it kindof a "farmers cut"? Not on a high horse, just askin'.

Andy

 

[paccity]

the op's question was how to cut the high stump's he already had. pretty hard to tip a tree thats only so tall. just sayin. and grow some thick bark.:rolleyes2:

 

[tramp bushler]

sides that, the whistles are very cheery to hear.


Unless your one of the yarder engineers who ran yarder when I was pullin riggin .
And that was with Alaska Highball whistles .
One to stop . One t go ahead . My two favorite were , slack both lines ( one Really long whistle and dump the haulback .. also double:msp_biggrin: slack the mainline .

I could really jangle the engineers nerves !
Well , he wanted the job of sitting down all day . Puttin up with me on the bug was just the price thier ears had to pay .:msp_wink:

 

[slowp]

sides that, the whistles are very cheery to hear.


Unless your one of the yarder engineers who ran yarder when I was pullin riggin .
And that was with Alaska Highball whistles .
One to stop . One t go ahead . My two favorite were , slack both lines ( one Really long whistle and dump the haulback .. also double:msp_biggrin: slack the mainline .

I could really jangle the engineers nerves !
Well , he wanted the job of sitting down all day . Puttin up with me on the bug was just the price thier ears had to pay .:msp_wink:

I walked up to the landing from the bottom one day, through what had been logged. They'd just shut down for the day when I got to the top. It was two guys, sometimes 3, of which only one had a lot of experience. The newbie, had given the wrong whistle for slacking the skyline, earlier. They were running a Christy Carriage so that was kind of important to know. Anyway, I arrived, no earplugs handy, by the yarder, when they had upped their disagreement to using the bugs. The experienced guy, who also ran the yarder, was hitting his bug and yelling "THAT'S SLACK THE SKYLINE, NOT THIS." and then he followed up with giving the incorrect whistle. He repeated it a couple more times. This was deafening, I had no earplugs handy. It wasn't very cheery for me that day. It was painful.

 

[Slamm]

Wow Sam,
I didn't mean to poke you in the eye when I asked that.
I'm not looking down my nose at anyone, just pointing out that what works in one situation may not be a good option in another.
You said that cutting a tree at ground level isn't any harder than at waist level, and I was just pointing out a different scinario. I didn't mean for you to get all butt-hurt over it.
Besides that, if you adjust the plane of the cut to the slope you're on, wouldn't that make it kindof a "farmers cut"? Not on a high horse, just askin'.

Andy

Oh, sorry, I figured that "can you do that on a 50% slope." thing was a knock at being a flatlander, since you had just pointed out the flatness of the ground that my trees were cut on, and since fully 90+% of the time someone from the western regions starts their post out with the flatness or steepness of the ground, its usually to jest on a flatlander. So sorry or taking it wrong, I should have just said, "Yes, I can do that on a 50% slope." and then ended the post.

Now you ask, if it would be a farmer cut? ............. good question, ............. I think the term farmer cut usually has some reference to a crappy looking stump afterwards, either due to lack of careing or pride in one's work or due to ignorance of how it should look or could look afterwards, and since one could easily follow the lay of the land whether it is flat or sloped very closely, I don't think someone would think that is unprofessional from looks point of view, but is sure would be a waste of time if it was a production cutting setting, which isn't what the OP was worried about.

How's that?

Sam

 

[redprospector]

Oh, sorry, I figured that "can you do that on a 50% slope." thing was a knock at being a flatlander, since you had just pointed out the flatness of the ground that my trees were cut on, and since fully 90+% of the time someone from the western regions starts their post out with the flatness or steepness of the ground, its usually to jest on a flatlander. So sorry or taking it wrong, I should have just said, "Yes, I can do that on a 50% slope." and then ended the post.

Now you ask, if it would be a farmer cut? ............. good question, ............. I think the term farmer cut usually has some reference to a crappy looking stump afterwards, either due to lack of careing or pride in one's work or due to ignorance of how it should look or could look afterwards, and since one could easily follow the lay of the land whether it is flat or sloped very closely, I don't think someone would think that is unprofessional from looks point of view, but is sure would be a waste of time if it was a production cutting setting, which isn't what the OP was worried about.

How's that?

Sam

Why Sam, that was down right elloquent.

I wouldn't "jest" you about flat land, I kinda envy you over it. I'd like to get more than 10 or 15 acres of semi flat ground at a time, after I get to the ridge for a change.
I still disagree with following the contour of the ground on a slope. The deal about "long bars", high stumps, and a level back cut has a safety factor to go along with it.
State Forestry requires us to leave no more than an 8" stump. FS is 12" I believe. On steep ground I have my guy's cut at a "safe" and comfortable height, and recut the stump if necessary to keep the beaurocrats happy.
There's just something about going home at night in one piece that seems "professional" to me.
I'm just saying, what works in one situation, may not be the best choice for another.

Andy

 

[Slamm]

Why Sam, that was down right elloquent.

I wouldn't "jest" you about flat land, I kinda envy you over it. I'd like to get more than 10 or 15 acres of semi flat ground at a time, after I get to the ridge for a change.
I still disagree with following the contour of the ground on a slope. The deal about "long bars", high stumps, and a level back cut has a safety factor to go along with it.
State Forestry requires us to leave no more than an 8" stump. FS is 12" I believe. On steep ground I have my guy's cut at a "safe" and comfortable height, and recut the stump if necessary to keep the beaurocrats happy.
There's just something about going home at night in one piece that seems "professional" to me.
I'm just saying, what works in one situation, may not be the best choice for another.

Andy

I understand completely, but the OP is just cutting yard trees that are already cut and wanted some info on how to simply cut them lower with ease. I have been trying to explain how to do that, now you are getting into safety or other such things. You ask me if I can do that on a 50% slope, the answer is yes, it isn't anymore safe or unsafe than cutting a level kerf, unless you need to wedge it.

I still disagree with following the contour of the ground on a slope. The deal about "long bars", high stumps, and a level back cut has a safety factor to go along with it.

What is there to disagree about, if you want to cut a low stump, then you have to follow the contour of ground on a slope ................ otherwise it won't be a low stump, which is the whole purpose of this thread.

As to the long bars, high stumps and level back cut ,..................... Uh, Okay.

Sam

 

[RandyMac]

I was born with a glitch in my lower back, I lose power if I bend my back too much, thus the high stumps. It worked out, few cared about waist high stumps.

 

[redprospector]

I understand completely, but the OP is just cutting yard trees that are already cut and wanted some info on how to simply cut them lower with ease. I have been trying to explain how to do that, now you are getting into safety or other such things. You ask me if I can do that on a 50% slope, the answer is yes, it isn't anymore safe or unsafe than cutting a level kerf, unless you need to wedge it.



What is there to disagree about, if you want to cut a low stump, then you have to follow the contour of ground on a slope ................ otherwise it won't be a low stump, which is the whole purpose of this thread.

As to the long bars, high stumps and level back cut ,..................... Uh, Okay.

Sam

Hahaha. I thought you'd see it my way.
Stump height is measured from the "high side". So a stump that is 3" high can be 2' high on the low side. But it's still a 3" stump.

Andy

 

[tramp bushler]

I've made thousands of stumps that were 6-10" high on the high side and 10' tall or taller on the low side . .

In the words of the guy that broke me in . I ain't never seen a stump on a log truck in my liife ! :msp_wink::msp_biggrin:


Sorry , just had t stir the pot .

Sides , go cuttin all the stumps off , whats a guy gonna shoot at . Remember , log er clean , pave er flat

 

[ClassicSWC]

Holy schnikes, I didn't realize how many replies I recieved! Dang 'puter was sending all the alerts to junk mail.

I guess I need to clarify a little bit. I am clearcutting 6-8 acres strictly for firewood. This is in a housing development owned by my step-dad. When I'm done or Phase 1 is built out, there will be houses built on it, so I don't really care what it looks like. My main concern was to cut the stumps off so I can drive my truck around easier.

I've felled about 40 trees so far, so there is a lot of firewood in the form of stumps just sitting there in my way. 40 trees isn't a lot and I'm still nervous as a hooker in church everytime I fell one. Consequently, some of the advanced techniques like bore cutting, I am not at all comfortable with. I guess I could practice on some of the stumps, I just can't see me ever using that technique on an actual tree.

Just fyi, it's probably 60% red and white oak, 20% locust and 20% elm, gum, red birch and cherry.

Thanks for all the replies.

 

[tramp bushler]

Boys ; we are talking about bore cutting too much without a primer on how to bore cut safeley and effectivly .

Unless someone knows of a thread that was on bore cutting we prolly start one . Don't want anyone gettin cut or blowin a tip .

 

[RandyMac]

The boring subject.

http://www.arboristsite.com/forestry-logging-forum/130027.htm

http://www.arboristsite.com/forestry-logging-forum/160153.htm

http://www.arboristsite.com/forestry-logging-forum/123743-2.htm

here are some classics, there are lots more

 

[Gologit]

The boring subject.

http://www.arboristsite.com/forestry-logging-forum/130027.htm

http://www.arboristsite.com/forestry-logging-forum/160153.htm

http://www.arboristsite.com/forestry-logging-forum/123743-2.htm

here are some classics, there are lots more

Those are good threads. If someone wants to learn a little about bore cutting they're a good place to start.

But why bore cut when you can do this:? Thanks again to Gary for the diagram of the Coos Bay cut.

 

[flushcut]

Holy schnikes, I didn't realize how many replies I recieved! Dang 'puter was sending all the alerts to junk mail.

I guess I need to clarify a little bit. I am clearcutting 6-8 acres strictly for firewood. This is in a housing development owned by my step-dad. When I'm done or Phase 1 is built out, there will be houses built on it, so I don't really care what it looks like. My main concern was to cut the stumps off so I can drive my truck around easier.

I've felled about 40 trees so far, so there is a lot of firewood in the form of stumps just sitting there in my way. 40 trees isn't a lot and I'm still nervous as a hooker in church everytime I fell one. Consequently, some of the advanced techniques like bore cutting, I am not at all comfortable with. I guess I could practice on some of the stumps, I just can't see me ever using that technique on an actual tree.

Just fyi, it's probably 60% red and white oak, 20% locust and 20% elm, gum, red birch and cherry.

Thanks for all the replies.

High stump'em and pop them out with a dozer later forget about low as possible there will be nothing to lever off of for the cat unless you go in with the ripper first.

 

[ReggieT]

Thumbs up!

Hell a of a job!!!:d

??? Why is cutting a tree of any reasonable diameter that much harder at ground level then at waist level?

I mean, other than the obvious diameter increase, i think its easier, i take a knee and relax when cutting them off at ground level.

just bore the bar in it and walk around it, cut from the inside out and you don't have to worry about dirt or rocks, because you are pulling the chip out, not shoving them in. I just stick the bar in and walk around them. Take a knee and relax while making beautiful low stumps that are easier to drive over for the skidder or dozer without tearing the undercarriage out. Plus it gives the skidder drivers more options of where they can go, as appose to leaving waist high stumps all over the place that look horrible, like you don't care what the place looks like when you are done. When i log, i try to leave the place looking like it was never "logged", that means cut the stump low so its hard to see and cut the top down so it rots faster and it out of sight quicker. You will find this mentality will lead to an increase in jobs because most every landowner hates what their place looks like after most logging has taken place, because they typically leave tops everywhere and the stumps are eye sores for the next 10 years. If you are going to cut the tree down, then cut it low enough that its gone when you cut it, otherwise you have left the most annoying part of it, the stump, as it still takes up the same foot print as before, with the stump, but you have noting of beauty to look at because the tree is gone, just poor taste i think.

But thats how a lot of loggers think ............ I just heard one say, "we're not landscapers." ....... Lol, this was shortly after he was complaining about not enough logging work around or that nobody wanted to have their place logged anymore ........ Some people can't put two and two, together.

Not sure if you can see it in these photos, but you will get the idea. If you bore in and tip your bar down into the center and walk around them, you can actually cut one off at ground level on the outside edge, but the center will be below the ground, to the point, that you could fill the stump over with dirt and possibly never even see it afterwards. This stump is not cut at ground level, but you can sorta see the bowled shape to it. Thats a 066 with a 28" bar for comparison, that was as low as i could go and still missed cutting the center 4" or so.

sam