Wood stove insert draft problems - what a pain!

[firebrick43]

Most common is 24". You won't need to brace it if it's a calm day. Remember the black stove pipe is just a cheap quick test, not something to leave up even for a day or two. Just start a small fire and let it die out. Zogger has a point if it's a real pain to do you may just want to install a true ss section anyhow. Of course you will probably need to get up there to measure the liner for a new section to?

 

[CTYank]

I can see how the flue'd get so much attention, but, with the downward flow, you have your major clue.

There is a competing "flue" in the house that's overpowering it. Like leakage through the attic to the great outdoors, so that the house manifests a "chimney effect". With an inlet at a lower level, it can cool things down real quick. BTDT with one of those.

My wager is that once you tightly seal all air entries to the attic, and seal up the attic to boot, the strong downdraft will be gone. The most problematic leaks here are the ones up high on the house.

It can happen in a well-sealed house that actual flues can compete. That got to be a problem back when, when a roaring fire in the fireplace drew air down the flue with a woodstove connected. Of course a fireplace can suck in thousands of cfm and overwhelm a stove.

 

[blades]

its installed in a masonry fireplace, the flue is somewhat offset due to the smoke shelf, and damper placement, usually pretty hard to see up the chimney...
View attachment 385518

Yes I am aware of smoke shelves and such in fireplace flues- but op's statement said twisted or similar - which was why the question. Every bend in a flue run shortens its effective length as well as reducing the draft.

 

[nathon918]

Yes I am aware of smoke shelves and such in fireplace flues- but op's statement said twisted or similar - which was why the question. Every bend in a flue run shortens its effective length as well as reducing the draft.

Stainless liner is not straight. It's one of those flexible ones, and it curves around a bit as it goes up, so you can't see the top

the masonry liner would have to be AT LEAST twice the size (12"+...not likely) of the SS liner, for the SS liner to move enough to not see up to the top...

 

[fatboycowen]

The existing clay tile liner was removed to install the stainless liner, as it wouldn't fit. I suspect the space inside the large masonry chimney is pretty big.

 

[fatboycowen]

Here is the pic I took. This is from inside the stove with the top plate deflector thing removed. Camera is just above the opening from the stove to stove pipe.

The pipe isn't straight, but doesn't seem to have tight kinks. I think the pipe moves laterally the wide direction of the chimney, which makes sense. I suppose it could be shimmed somehow to make it straight.

Also comment on the buildup. This is very soft (like flour) stuff that is easily wiped off with a finger.

 

[zogger]

Here is the pic I took. This is from inside the stove with the top plate deflector thing removed. Camera is just above the opening from the stove to stove pipe.

The pipe isn't straight, but doesn't seem to have tight kinks. I think the pipe moves laterally the wide direction of the chimney, which makes sense. I suppose it could be shimmed somehow to make it straight.

Also comment on the buildup. This is very soft (like flour) stuff that is easily wiped off with a finger.

Unless it changes radically as it gets to the top, that's not plugged up or anything. A mild twist straight up isn't the same as a flat 90 degree turn, I doubt it restricts the draft that much. An additional straight section at the top can't hurt.

 

[Cerran]

Did they insulate the liner? If so with how much insulation?

 

[fatboycowen]

The liner is insulated with a thin, maybe half inch layer of what looked like it might be fiberglass. It had a foil type face to it, and they sealed it with aluminum tape, I believe.

 

[Granpajohn]

The liner is insulated with a thin, maybe half inch layer of what looked like it might be fiberglass. It had a foil type face to it, and they sealed it with aluminum tape, I believe.

That's probably ceramic insulation. Very good stuff; (and priced like it). Mine is the same.

Re: the photo...I think it looks fine.

BTW, (refer back to my earlier "hair dryer" post). The more you light it, burn it, (enjoy it); the easier it gets to do. Last night I had to use the ol' hair dryer, and it only took 20 seconds to reverse the draft. Stick with it....don't give up. Chimney could be taller, but keep burning anyway. No reason not to.

 

[Cerran]

The liner is insulated with a thin, maybe half inch layer of what looked like it might be fiberglass. It had a foil type face to it, and they sealed it with aluminum tape, I believe.

Then they insulated it to UL code and with enough insulation to keep the liner hot. It sounds like they could have pulled the liner a little more taut during the install from the picture.

 

[fatboycowen]

Thank for the info.
As I stated before, I've been using a propane torch to heat the fire box. I will try pointing it up the flue, as close as possible to see if it speeds things up. I can easily feel when the draft gets going. Before the draft starts, the heat from the torch comes out the door, and straight up the wall. Once it starts, I can't feel the heat at the top of the door.

 

[Toddppm]

Is that a tear in the lower part of the liner? Looks like a little flap of metal sticking out and tear around the outside edge?

 

[fatboycowen]

I'm not sure what that is. I noted it when I was in there. It's a flap of the upper liner I believe. Does the upper liner fit into the stove pipe? I suspect it's just a bent in piece, not necessarily a leak. I do plan to take apart the elaborate surround on the stove to see what the connection looks like from the outside.