Apple tree blight/rust

[chuckwood]

I'm starting an apple orchard, and nearly all my trees have a bit of this on the leaves. But one young small tree in the pic is in particularly bad shape. I've been spraying with a copper based fungicide and can't see any improvement. I'm assuming this is the apple blight that gets carried in from eastern red cedar trees which are on my neighbor's property. I've cut down nearly all the cedars I have in my woods. What's the best fungicide to use, Daconil? I've got a bunch of that, but it's not organic and I'm not too keen on spraying any of it on emerging apples.

 

[Jace]

Plant resistant cultivars.

 

[chuckwood]

Plant resistant cultivars.

Well, then I won't be planting any more golden delicious.

 

[ATH]

Most fungi need to be treated before you see any symptoms...that means start early next year. technically AgriFos is not listed as USDA Certified organic, but it probably should be as it is just Phosphorous.

 

[Raintree]

Most fungi need to be treated before you see any symptoms...that means start early next year.

Your spray regiment is important for the suppression of rust. Coverage, timing & interval between applications is key.

 

[Jed1124]

Start your fungicides at bud break. They are almost always preventative and not corrective. Spraying now will not effect those leaves one bit. Myclobutinol works nice but not organic. Serenade is a organic fungicide. It smells bad but works pretty good.

 

[chuckwood]

Start your fungicides at bud break. They are almost always preventative and not corrective. Spraying now will not effect those leaves one bit. Myclobutinol works nice but not organic. Serenade is a organic fungicide. It smells bad but works pretty good.

I'll look up myclobutinol. If I'm spraying at bud break then fungicide residues left on apples won't be an issue.

 

[Jed1124]

I'll look up myclobutinol. If I'm spraying at bud break then fungicide residues left on apples won't be an issue.

Trade name Eagle or Myclotect

 

[c5rulz]

If you want to grow food grade apples an IPM, (Integrated Pest Management system) is a must.

Common sense would dictate that bugs would be your biggest problem, but in reality fungus is. My schedule is on the long end of the spectrum which is every 14 days. Many spray closer together than that and after rains. High heat/humidity are your stress times.

My normal cover spray for the balance of the Summer is: (figure 1 acre coverage in cubic volume)

35 gallons water
1 # Imidan (Insecticide)
1.5 # Captan (fungicide)
1.3 Oz. Ralleye (post and Pre fungicide)
4 oz. Li- 700 (non ionic surfactant and buffering agent)
1/2 gallon of 10% calcium supplement, for Honeycrisp