Are Carbide Chains Worth the Extra Cost?

[JimmyT]

Who wants to get some? about $100 three ways for one loop and a section with 6 spare right and left c;utters?

Franny here is a Forester Carbide for $44.88 https://www.ebay.com/itm/2947428431...9C2svZXrIvXHEo6oQt6ffDxg3k6J|tkp:BFBMgvbKjNth

 

[ladnar]

Thank you JimmyT for the info, You were right Baileys has them, but found it for 1/2 price on flee-bay. So I bought one, just want to try one.

 

[JimmyT]

Thank you JimmyT for the info, You were right Baileys has them, but found it for 1/2 price on flee-bay. So I bought one, just want to try one.

Sounds good, do another post and lets us know how it works out.

 

[Mike Kunte]

Hey, Jimmy!
Been running carbide chains since 2018 on my BIL's farm, cutting fallen, burnt Bluegums. They were felled many years ago, and the bottom 5% are often lying in the dirt. Prime candidates for carbide. The carbide definitely lasts a lot longer than regular HSS cutters, but it is substantially slower than regular chain too. Since the carbide cuts slowly, I tend to subconsciously push the saw harder... not good for any of the saw components.

Even though I have a diamond wheel on my grinder to sharpen these chains, I find myself rather going with Stihl's RM chain, and taking a few extra loops into the bush.

I've never had a tooth fail, but my BIL has had several chip off unexpectedly in thorn wood...

All in all, I would say Carbide's not worth it in the long run. Cut RS or RM, and change to fresh chain when it dulls.

My 2c.

Mike

 

[JimmyT]

All in all, I would say Carbide's not worth it in the long run. Cut RS or RM, and change to fresh chain when it dulls.

Thanks Mike, that's some excellent info. How is your rain and crops doing. Last June and July we had our second hottest summer on record. In 1980 we had 33 days 100 plus temp and last summer was 18 days but he lack of rain really knocked grain production back. I think our southwestern states like Texas,New Mexico and Arizona just flat eclipsed those numbers.

 

[gene55]

Above quote would be for the carbide chain used by fire departments not the Stihl 33RD3 mentioned in post 1

I only got one 55dl 63piccoduro.

There are certain soil types you can just essentially cut a box out a root infested box. Those soils would be rather rare around here.

Once a cutter chips the next good one in line on that side is much more likely to chip than a tooth in a healthy section. I think Stihl charges about $5 for a cutter.

To think the rivets/bushings/holes in the drive link will go 4 times as far if used in clean wood, well answer that on your own experience of chain elongation with use.

I am unsure how much damage the carbide cutter fracture off chips damage other cutters.

The dremel tool with a diamond properly sized cylinder works, cuts faster than one might expect the dust is supposed to be toxic.

like stated the carbide is a piece brazed on and the chip cut off wood won't have as smooth an exit as a conventional cutter. Stihl 33RD3

I've also used the piccoduro carbide chain and have to say I have mixed feelings about it. It works best if you are cutting brush or small trees where you end up hitting the dirt or end up cutting a root. I've had them last two days (16 hrs.) before having to sharpen them, but you do have to watch what you are cutting. Now if you happen to hit a rock the carbide insert has about a 50% chance of being broken of, the harder the rock the higher the risk and when you lose 3 or 4 it turns into a parts chain. They don't cut as fast as a good sharp steel chain but in the right use they are worth it. I sharpen them with an Oregon sharpener with a diamond wheel ($100).

 

[ladnar]

OK, so I bought a Stihl 23 RD3 (.325 .050 Carbide tip) Chain, also got a 3/16" (4,8mm) diamond file, which won't even come close to fitting on the tooth for sharpening, hits the raker and the tooth (file just too big) do I need a 5/32" diamond file. Anyone have any experience with this. Thank you.

 

[ladnar]

I now see Forester has an 11/64" (4.5mm) diamond file, wonder if that would work? anyone have any ideas?

 

[Mike Kunte]

OK, so I bought a Stihl 23 RD3 (.325 .050 Carbide tip) Chain, also got a 3/16" (4,8mm) diamond file, which won't even come close to fitting on the tooth for sharpening, hits the raker and the tooth (file just too big) do I need a 5/32" diamond file. Anyone have any experience with this. Thank you.

Hey Ladnar!

I had a similar experience with the diamond wheel on my grinder.... there just seems to be very little room between the front of the cutter and the back of the depth gauge. It feels wrong grinding the back of the depth gauge to make room for the wheel (or in your case the file), but you may have to do it. Once there is room you'll find the problem goes away. It's only prevelent on new chains.

Hope this helps!

Mike

 

[Mike Kunte]

...anyway, the carbide chains now just live in my saw box. I rarely use them, for all the reasons which have been posted. Maybe one day they will become heroes! Who knows?

 

[Farmer_Nate]

I thought carbide chains were for cutting through rooftops and other gritty stuff.

 

[Mike Kunte]

I thought carbide chains were for cutting through rooftops and other gritty stuff.

Yes, I know this now...

 

[Franny K]

I thought carbide chains were for cutting through rooftops and other gritty stuff.

If you download the attachment in post 20 in this thread you will see that the type of chain in post 1 here is different than the type of chain for the Stihl rescue saw 46?R

https://www.arboristsite.com/thread...n-part-for-a-500i-25-bar.366776/#post-7972540

 

[Mike Kunte]

Good point, Fran!

The "R" designation has a slightly different cutter/depth gauge arrangement, if memory serves correctly...

 

[ladnar]

Hey Ladnar!

I had a similar experience with the diamond wheel on my grinder.... there just seems to be very little room between the front of the cutter and the back of the depth gauge. It feels wrong grinding the back of the depth gauge to make room for the wheel (or in your case the file), but you may have to do it. Once there is room you'll find the problem goes away. It's only prevelent on new chains.

Hope this helps!

Mike

Thank you mike, I was just testing it sitting on the couch, will put in on the saw and see how close it is. I just bought the carbide to try it after reading this thread. I love chainsaw gadgets.

 

[Cliff R]

Another opinion from someone who skipped over most of the responses. I've been at this nearly half a century now, so my advice is based on LOTS of experience with just about everything out there.

Carbide tipped cutters have their purpose in this deal but they are not the best choice for firewood cutting. They work as advertised and hold their edge well in dirty conditions. They don't cut fast enough for my liking so I don't use them much these days. I do get into a decent amount of "dirty" wood (tops left over from logging operations and some skidded or pushed around logs, etc). For that reason I've switched most of my saws over to semi-chisel chains. They last a LOT longer than full chisel and cut just about as fast if you know how to sharpen them.

They make diamond coated files for carbide chain but there is a learning curve to sharpening them. The cutters are extremely "brittle" and you can bust them up hand filing them if you don't ease in there and take you time to get a round "profile" started in the tooth. Sharpening or "touching" them up in the field wouldn't be so good as it's difficult enough in the big shop vise after an outing.

Bottom line they just aren't for me as I don't have the patience these days for the slower cutting and don't like the added labor and attention to detail required to sharpen them. My answer is to simply take 3-4 saws on an outing with semi-chisel chain, razor sharp and ready to go. If/when one gets dull before I've made it thru a tank of fuel just grab another and keep cutting.

I'd also add here (it may have been meantioned previously) that I've become quite fond of 3/8" LP with the round cutters on smaller saws as well. They can endure a LOT of dirty wood and keep going, and in smaller material I use and prefer them to the bigger saws these days.........

 

[Saw Fixr]

All very good info and feedback on carbide chains. However, please know that carbide contains cobalt, whose dust particles are highly carcinogenic. Any type of sharpening, diamond file, dremel or diamond wheel will produce fine dust particles. If you choose to sharpen the chain yourself, dust evacuation or proper ventilation is a must! Do not breathe it. It doesn’t take much to ruin your day….

Full disclosure: I’ve worked, in a past career,for a Swiss machine tool mfgr who produces grinding machines for the carbide cutting tool industry. We used high amounts of flood coolant, along with dust extraction. One time, I did service work at a “Stellite” plant in Canada , where they machine materials that contained cobalt. Life expectancy for their retirees was an average of 2-5 yrs. Cobalt in fines/dust form is as bad or worse than asbestos. Do your research before you sharpen carbide.
Peace…….

 

[ladnar]

Thank you for the info Saw Fixr, I will heed your warning, I appreciate it.

 

[user 189819]

I purchased a carbide chain on eBay recently, .325 .050 80DL for my 20" Husqvarna 450 Rancher. I am working on extracting a very big stump and roots, and a regular chain dulls after a few seconds due to the inevitable dirt contact when cutting roots that used to be underground (now exposed after excavation).

I found the carbide chain stayed sharp for about 15 minutes of near constant use, then it succumbed to dullness as well. In a sense it was worth it, since those cuts would take hours with a regular chain (and filing).

I later mistakenly tried to sharpen the carbide chain, and instead ruined the file :-(

 

[markle]

I bought one once since I wanted to use the chainsaw and expected to hit nails cutting up an old chicken coop…didn’t last 1 minute. Nails hit ripped off carbide tips. Just sayin.